These swords are based on # 361.s p182 Swords and Blades of the American Revolution.
[ Linked Image ]

The specs for the sharp sword:
weight: 1lb 12oz.
Length: 29 1/2"
Blade: 25" x 1/8"
PoB: 6"
Cop: 17"
SN: at guard

Mr. Potter,
I've never really gotten interested in this time period, but I really like two things about these swords. What material are the cream colored grips made of? And how did you achieve that antiqued look on the blades? Both look very nice, IMO.

Mr. Potter,

Yes, I really like that. I have some older Windlass swords that show a lot of wear (not realistic battle damage, but at least a lot of test cutting damage and so forth) and I feel like they just have more character than brand new perfectly polished ones.

(I feel the need for a disclaimer here, as someone on the forum may decide to bring up the fact that swords were repaired from time to time as needed by swordsmiths and would not have been allowed to retain lots of nicks and such for long. I am aware of this, just saying how much character I think is added to the look of a sword as it gets extensively used)

Ok, sorry, back to the subject at hand -- From the photos, that antiquing does look like years of wear and natural aging. All those things going on in the blade keeps the overall simple design of the swords from being too simple, IMO. I think it was a wonderful choice, and sort of "makes the sword" from an aesthetic viewpoint.

Just one more question: How does such antiquing as this stand up to actual use? If an antiqued sword is cut through hard objects like small branches or even moderate ones like large water jugs, how would the antiquing be affected? I'm guessing a finish like this might actually weather use very well, as the method you described seems like a series of chemical processes, rather than just surface finish. Not sure though... ?

[I was wondering about this also when looking at the new pattern welded Sutton Hoo sword blade in another thread (the one with no fuller where the blade is acid etched to show the pattern all over). It seems like without the acid etched part of the sword kind of protected like it is on most swords, (with it recessed in the fuller, and thus not coming into contact with objects being cut) the pattern would begin to be worn with scratches over time which would not be easily fixed as they would on a highly polished sword]

The antiqued finish (done this way) will act exactly like a sword that actually was older. It is not a fake finish but just uses more aggressive chemicals (and sometimes heat) to speed the aging process.

Genuine pattern welded blades that are etched are only slightly harder to "re-polish" then their mirror finished brothers (or perhaps sons is more historically likely). It does take a fair bit more care and artistry to get it blended in but it is completely doable.

Mr. Potter,
Thanks for the explantation. I really like the aged patina used on those swords now that I know how durable it would be if I got a sword done like that! :)