I know this isn't a sword, but it involves the making of them :D
This style of hammer is very prevalent in both the Japanese and European blademaking traditions. I Europe it is known as a doghead hammer, in Japan it is known as a cutler's hammer.
Forged this up yesterday from 4140. I was doing some R&D trying to figure out a way to make the eye hole easier, after all these things I tried the foolproof and quickest way was just to do it by hand :rolleyes: . But I did come away with a new technique to drift the hole so it is angled like the traditional ones without dealing with starting with an angled slot. This one came out at about 2.5 pounds. I am used to 1045 for hammers, this 4140 is very different but good. Hopefully I can get the HT down with this steel just as easy as with 1045.
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| Sam Salvati wrote: |
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This style of hammer is very prevalent in both the Japanese and European blademaking traditions. I Europe it is known as a doghead hammer, in Japan it is known as a cutler's hammer. Forged this up yesterday from 4140. |
Hi Sam,
That is beautiful. I am interested in hammers for bladesmithing. I have only been forging metal and working on an anvil for about six months. Before that I was strictly doing stock removal. So what is the specific function of a doghead hammer? How do you use it when making a blade? Are there historical examples of this tool and how it was used for bladesmithing? Thanks for sharing.
Phil it's just another type of hammer in the arsenal, the japanese used them alot because it is comfortable to use when sitting down. The design also alters your swing a bit, the hammer sort of "pulls" itself in a way, hard to describe you have to feel it. if you look in craft of the japanese sword, you will see many different versions.
Sam, excellent job! The rough finish with clean work surface looks much like alot of the antique hammers we use.
Similar types are not really new in the U.S.. They are called "doghead" here, as well as "sawyers", and "cutlers" hammers. I had been contemplating purchasing one from a U.S. saw specialty company. http://www.hanchett.com/hammer.html
Thanks Allen! I like the rough finish, utilitarian hehe. I wish I could do polished hammers like Brent Bailey does! I'd rather keep my belts for blades though.
Jared, the main difference between a doghead or saw tuner's hammer is that on those the handle is usually 90 degrees to the head, to keep your hand and knuckles from banging into the saw while you are hitting on it, while the cutler's hammers are angled. I have seen and handled antique versions of both, a European Saw tuner's, as well as a Japanese bladesmiths hammer.
Jared, the main difference between a doghead or saw tuner's hammer is that on those the handle is usually 90 degrees to the head, to keep your hand and knuckles from banging into the saw while you are hitting on it, while the cutler's hammers are angled. I have seen and handled antique versions of both, a European Saw tuner's, as well as a Japanese bladesmiths hammer.
...well folks, looks like hammerhead does it again. thanks and a tip o' the hat to Blackie Sam...!
| Sam Salvati wrote: |
|
Jared, the main difference between a doghead or saw tuner's hammer is that on those the handle is usually 90 degrees to the head, to keep your hand and knuckles from banging into the saw while you are hitting on it, while the cutler's hammers are angled. I have seen and handled antique versions of both, a European Saw tuner's, as well as a Japanese bladesmiths hammer. |
I realize you may never get the opportunity again, but, if you do, please photograph some of these!
I am not sure that I grasp the "knuckle banging" explanation given that it just looks hard to do with the head geometry. Turning the handle looks like it would make a negligible difference in that area as far as I can figure. I have seen some videos of the Japanese versions at work. If I remember it right, the heads are slightly curved such that the hammer would not be good for reaching into the center of a large circular saw blade without again running into interference with one's knuckles. It would not surprise me if the saw turner's handle orientation had more to do with comfort in how one's wrist works best to assist in control while flattening. I figure that in the case of the saw turners hammer (circular blades) we are talking about delicate flattening here.
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