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The original in the Wallace Collection and the A&A sword.
I had a chance to take some more pics of the A&A Sword. I am also working on a full review for myArmoury, but that is not done yet. Found the COP to be about 22" from the tip adn the COB to be about 6" in front of the cross. The sword is not as heavy as I thought it to be with 5.6lbs on a rather cheap scale. I plan to weigh it on a much more accurate scale later this week. Also, I am looking for suggestions as to what to cut with this puppy. I could always do the 1/4" plywood. However, I was also thinking about rigging up a 30" diameter ...something.... of wet newspapers, perhaps wrapped in wet cardboard with a green , freshcut sampling in the back as a spine. HEHE just my "unusual mind" rambling. Don't know where i would get real tatami mats without ordering them and that would only delay the review anyway. So send in yoru suggestions and enjoy the pics.
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The original in the Wallace Collection and the A&A sword.
Attachment: 25.31 KBThe original in the Wallace Collection and the A&A sword.
Here are a few more:
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That beefy pommel and my beefy hand.
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Ain't those proportions beautiful!!
Attachment: 32.21 KBThat beefy pommel and my beefy hand.
Attachment: 23.13 KBAin't those proportions beautiful!!
The Cross and langet detailing:
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Dig that terminus detail on the cross ends.
Attachment: 25.72 KBDig that terminus detail on the cross ends.
Are these clamshells or flowers on the langets?
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You decide!
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Nice overall view.
Attachment: 30.95 KBYou decide!
Attachment: 32.55 KBNice overall view.
Thanks for the pics Joel! It looks like a beaut!
| Joel Whitmore wrote: |
| Are these clamshells or flowers on the langets? |
That bottom shot makes the sword look very sleek and sexy. The lines are very crisp and the aesthetics of the blade are beautifully-proportioned...
You know, I was considering the GBS as my first A&A sword (whenever that will happen), but now this 15th Century Two-Hander has really hit a sweet spot with me...
You just had to go and complicate things for me, didn't you! :p
| Joel Whitmore wrote: |
| I had a chance to take some more pics of the A&A Sword. I am also working on a full review for myArmoury, but that is not done yet. Found the COP to be about 22" from the tip adn the COB to be about 6" in front of the cross. The sword is not as heavy as I thought it to be with 5.6lbs on a rather cheap scale. I plan to weigh it on a much more accurate scale later this week. Also, I am looking for suggestions as to what to cut with this puppy. I could always do the 1/4" plywood. However, I was also thinking about rigging up a 30" diameter ...something.... of wet newspapers, perhaps wrapped in wet cardboard with a green , freshcut sampling in the back as a spine. HEHE just my "unusual mind" rambling. Don't know where i would get real tatami mats without ordering them and that would only delay the review anyway. So send in yoru suggestions and enjoy the pics. |
Quick question...
Approximately how long is the grip (not including the grip-able part of the pommel, of course)?
| Jeremiah Swanger wrote: | ||
Quick question... Approximately how long is the grip (not including the grip-able part of the pommel, of course)? |
The handle is 9 1/4" and the pommel is 4 3/4". I must say that the leather is soft but grippy and this is on of the most comfortable grips I have felt on any sword I have handled. Once again that big pommel really balances the blade out. The cross is 9 1/2" long. Jeremiah, one of the reasons I bought this sword is because of the shape of the blade. I absolutely love it. It is 2 1/2" wide dear the hilt but has a wonderful distal taper. It feels substantial, yes, but not overly heavy and is very manuverable. One of the main differences between this long of a blade and, say, a bastard sword, is the way the sword tracks. One has to really be aware of how much blade you have in front of you. I have still not gotten it down yet so I will keep practicing. What I am feeling from just goign through positions is that swords like this really work better with short, powerful cuts and not long, sweeping moves. This is just a feeling as I have not sparred with anyone. A full overhead cut would be devestating with a sword like this for sure. but if you miss your target or are defelcted, you had better recover quickly as all that blade has to be reigned in for defense. I would love to hear comments but someone who sparrs with a true two-hande like this one.
One more comment about the very first pic in this post. When you compare the A&A to the original you will notice that there is some wire braiding on the original that is not on the A&A sword. I talked to Craig about this and he said that the wire on the grip was a later addition and not original to the sword. A&A could have added it for me if I wanted it, but I chose not to go that route.
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A look down the comfortable handle!
Hi Joel,
Thanks for the great photos and description. It is a truly beautiful sword-- congratulations!
David
Thanks for the great photos and description. It is a truly beautiful sword-- congratulations!
David
| Joel Whitmore wrote: |
|
Jeremiah, one of the reasons I bought this sword is because of the shape of the blade. I absolutely love it. It is 2 1/2" wide dear the hilt but has a wonderful distal taper. It feels substantial, yes, but not overly heavy and is very manuverable. One of the main differences between this long of a blade and, say, a bastard sword, is the way the sword tracks. One has to really be aware of how much blade you have in front of you. I have still not gotten it down yet so I will keep practicing. What I am feeling from just goign through positions is that swords like this really work better with short, powerful cuts and not long, sweeping moves. This is just a feeling as I have not sparred with anyone. A full overhead cut would be devestating with a sword like this for sure. but if you miss your target or are deflected, you had better recover quickly as all that blade has to be reigned in for defense. I would love to hear comments but someone who sparrs with a true two-hande like this one. |
Yeah, I was really wondering how this sort of thing would be used in combat- despite its almost-pointy profile, it really doesn't strike me as a fencing sword, taking into account the hulking almost 6-pound weight (if it weren't for that, I would have considered this a Talhoffer sword). I would also be very interested to hear from someone who can spar with something like this- I'd love to know how something like this would be advantageous over a smaller, nimbler longsword...
My focus is much more on the longsword than the really large two handers, but the principles are basically the same. There are many renaissance fencing manuals that detail it's use from many masters such as Alfieri, Digrassi and Marozzo (though there are many others as well). You will see very similar stances and strikes to the shorter longsword.
Joel is correct in the fact that to make huge sweeping cuts will result in slow recovery, and in addition to that they will leave you open to attack before you can make your strike. But the leverage of the extra long blade and hilt will allow you to make smaller motions and still have devastating cuts. Thrusting is also a huge part of fighting with a two hander.
Gripping the ricasso area is something else that was very commonly done with a sword this size when an opponent has closed the distance, as well as half swording.
The two hander is a vey versatile weapon, and one of these days I'm going to have to crack down on studying it's differences to the longsword. But right now I think I have too many weapons that I'm trying to focus on, and adding more just means spreading myself too thin. :)
Joel is correct in the fact that to make huge sweeping cuts will result in slow recovery, and in addition to that they will leave you open to attack before you can make your strike. But the leverage of the extra long blade and hilt will allow you to make smaller motions and still have devastating cuts. Thrusting is also a huge part of fighting with a two hander.
Gripping the ricasso area is something else that was very commonly done with a sword this size when an opponent has closed the distance, as well as half swording.
The two hander is a vey versatile weapon, and one of these days I'm going to have to crack down on studying it's differences to the longsword. But right now I think I have too many weapons that I'm trying to focus on, and adding more just means spreading myself too thin. :)
Looks pretty close to the original.
| Joel Whitmore wrote: |
| Also, I am looking for suggestions as to what to cut with this puppy. I could always do the 1/4" plywood.
|
If you do the 1/4", you'll be in serious danger of bisecting the sheet and burying the blade tip in the ground. Had to pull up my A&A Claymore short, to avoid doing so...but I think I've told that story... :D
| Joe Maccarrone wrote: | ||
If you do the 1/4", you'll be in serious danger of bisecting the sheet and burying the blade tip in the ground. Had to pull up my A&A Claymore short, to avoid doing so...but I think I've told that story... :D |
HEHE Yeah Joe, you beast! With one of the first AT Type XIIa's I got a 30-something inch cut in some 1/4" plywood. I woudl think that with that medium when you get to large swords like this one and the claymore, the necessary height of the medium takes away from the cutting ability. From what you are telling me Joe ( amd I doubt you not), I'd probably need something like 4 1/2' to 5' tall sheet not to go through the target completely. Now this may sound rather sick, but I would like a medium that could approximate a human target. Again, I cannot affor tatami mats right now so I was thinking about enough rolled news paper ( soaked) to make a 30" or so diameter target. I know that someone spoke of phonebooks in another post. LOve to get ahold of some ballistic gellitin...just cause it'd be cool :lol:
[quote="Joel Whitmore"]
Swords into ballistic gello would be interesting! They would surely put these piddly handgun cartrdiges in perspective.
A sheet of 1/4" plywood 5'+ tall would probably cover it, and might also present challenges for setting up securely -- i.e. so it isn't too floppy. Would love to see some pics of what you come up with.. :)
| Joe Maccarrone wrote: | ||
LOve to get ahold of some ballistic gellitin...just cause it'd be cool :lol: |
Swords into ballistic gello would be interesting! They would surely put these piddly handgun cartrdiges in perspective.
A sheet of 1/4" plywood 5'+ tall would probably cover it, and might also present challenges for setting up securely -- i.e. so it isn't too floppy. Would love to see some pics of what you come up with.. :)
That's one beautiful sword Joe :eek:
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Just out of curiosity, how stiff would you say the blade is? I'm wondering because my atrim Ranger is a bit wippier than I would like, at least for thrusting.
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