Hi,
Much has been written about scabbards and lining. Still I need to ask something regarding this issue....
I have started to make a scabbard for my sword. It's a Norman style sword (Albion Reeve). If I'm correct during this time it was still a custom to make these woolen linings. If not, I want to make this lining anyway. Even though I'm a real sucker for historical accuracy..... :D (You do not see it from the outside)
But now for the technical details. What would be a good way to do this?
I've got a nice sheepskin which I can use for this project.
Were they used all the way, or just in a certain area?
Also, I have read something about shaving the wool to about 5mm. This would mean that the part that is glued to the inside if the wooden core is the skin + about 5mm of remaining wool.
What I would do is to glue this skin into both halves of my wooden scabbard core, and then glue those two halves together.
Would this be the correct approach or is there a better way? what may go wrong here is that between the two pieces of sheepskin there is a bit of a gap where they do not reach each other fully. this may result in the sword edge cutting in this gap.
Or am I talking nonsense now?.... :D
unfortunately, I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and I want to do everything right the first time.......
It is also not really a matter of not having the skills, but more of not exactly knowing the correct approach.
Something visual would be much appreciated. So. if anyone has got a picture??
Thanks.....
When I made a scabbard for my cutlass, I did just that: took some pieces of sheepskin, shaved the wool to about 3 mm, glued these pieces inside the scabbard halves (though only at the ends of the scabbard, leaving the middle part without wool) and then glued the scabbard halves together. Only flats of the blade touch the wool, edges rest against the wood of the scabbard (if the edge also rests against the wool then I guess it will eventually cut through it and anyway touch the wood). Wool helps to eliminate rattling and also cleans and oils your sword every time you sheath it. Things to pay attention to:
1) The initial fit was pretty snug so that if I turned the scabbard up side down the cutlass would not fall out, but it loosened later.
2) Wool eliminates rattling by preventing flats of the blade hitting the wood of the scabbard. But if you do not want a really snug fit (snug fit is bad if you want to draw your sword with just one hand, without holding the scabbard with another) then make sure that there is no rattling caused by edges of the blade hitting the wood (Well, what I wanted to say here is that the scabbard should perfectly match the contour of the blade, I hope it is understandable the way I wrote it, sorry for my English).
3) If the blade is long and/or "whippy" then it is not enough to glue wool only at the ends of the scabbard like I did, one should also glue a piece of wool in the middle. Or cover the whole inside of the scabbard with wool, which I guess is historically accurate, unlike what I did.
1) The initial fit was pretty snug so that if I turned the scabbard up side down the cutlass would not fall out, but it loosened later.
2) Wool eliminates rattling by preventing flats of the blade hitting the wood of the scabbard. But if you do not want a really snug fit (snug fit is bad if you want to draw your sword with just one hand, without holding the scabbard with another) then make sure that there is no rattling caused by edges of the blade hitting the wood (Well, what I wanted to say here is that the scabbard should perfectly match the contour of the blade, I hope it is understandable the way I wrote it, sorry for my English).
3) If the blade is long and/or "whippy" then it is not enough to glue wool only at the ends of the scabbard like I did, one should also glue a piece of wool in the middle. Or cover the whole inside of the scabbard with wool, which I guess is historically accurate, unlike what I did.
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