I have seen tang failures on welded repros usually welded about halfway down the tang but I think these were insufficiently reenforced by the grip. We discussed this in the thread on MRL viking swords.
| Alexi Goranov wrote: |
| [Especially note the first and last swords on the picture. |
I own a very cheap diasho and tanto set that i purchased on ebay for $43 including shipping. i checked out an identical set at a martial arts store and feel that I got my moneys worth. it cuts well on soft targets( after completely changing the edge geometry.) however, the katana has a tang very similar to the #2 tang shown in alexi's post. it has never failed but i have had to straighten it several times after cutting hardwoods more than 2" thick. the blade has also bent, but is easily straightened. the surprising thing is that the tang most commonly bends to the left immediately in front of the tsuba. i would have expected the blade to bend the tang back at the same point. also, the blade fits into an ornamental habaki that is made out of grey/silver hematite coloured potmetal. this holds the blade and handle in allignment against the pressure of a pommel nut. this is obviously a very poor design. My younger brother eventuyally cracked the habaki on my katana by using a full force blow forward of the COP and transferring all of his force to that weak spot. I am currently planning to weld a real tang in place.
aside from suggestions about purchasing better swords, any recomendations on how to attatch my new handle? also tips for preventing excessive heat to the blade would be apreciated. I am currently thinking of wrapping the blade in a frozen wet towell while I weld.
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