I just stumbled across this on MRL's site. It's interesting looking, but I'm not sure I've seen any rondels with all-brass hilts. All-steel, sure, but not all brass.
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It looks more crude than I'd like, but it's just $85.
i have no faith in MRL, but it looks like an improvement over the older ones ive handeld.
hopefuly it will make a cool project for some do it yourselfers
hopefuly it will make a cool project for some do it yourselfers
Just judging form the pictures... I gotta say, I like the blade on it. Thick and pointy. The quality is a concern though.
I really wish Albion put out a rondel. Now that would be sweet.
I really wish Albion put out a rondel. Now that would be sweet.
Here's a pic of what they may have based it on (the bottom one), from our Rondel Dagger spotlight:
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Here's a description of it from a book I have:
Scheibendolch, Deutschland, um 1400
Klinge im ersten Viertel und am Klingensatz sieben-, in der Mitte fünfkantig. Eiserner, teils sechskantiger, teils runder Griff mit Linienverzierung; Ränder der eisernen Scheiben waffelartig verziert.
Alta Vista translates it roughly to:
Rondel Dagger, Germany, ~ 1400
Blade in the first quarter and at the blade set seven -, in the center five-sharp-edged. Iron, partly more hexagonally, partly round grip with line ornament; Edges of the iron disks waffle pattern verziert.
I'd love to hear a better translation.
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Here's a description of it from a book I have:
Scheibendolch, Deutschland, um 1400
Klinge im ersten Viertel und am Klingensatz sieben-, in der Mitte fünfkantig. Eiserner, teils sechskantiger, teils runder Griff mit Linienverzierung; Ränder der eisernen Scheiben waffelartig verziert.
Alta Vista translates it roughly to:
Rondel Dagger, Germany, ~ 1400
Blade in the first quarter and at the blade set seven -, in the center five-sharp-edged. Iron, partly more hexagonally, partly round grip with line ornament; Edges of the iron disks waffle pattern verziert.
I'd love to hear a better translation.
Other than the rondels, not that bad of an attempt.
They're just wacky with the brass there at MRL. Brass, brass, brass.....They ruin many a potentially interesting piece, in my opinion, with the brass. :wtf:
Joe Maccarrone wrote: |
They're just wacky with the brass there at MRL. Brass, brass, brass.....They ruin many a potentially interesting piece, in my opinion, with the brass. :wtf: |
Brass only belongs in a shell casing. ;)
Perhaps brass is just easier to cast/shape/finish. This is an $85 item after all.
We know latten, a brass-like alloy (or just plain brass, depending on who you talk to), was indeed used in the middle ages. But MRL does seem to liberally apply it.
We know latten, a brass-like alloy (or just plain brass, depending on who you talk to), was indeed used in the middle ages. But MRL does seem to liberally apply it.
Patrick Kelly wrote: |
Brass only belongs in a shell casing. ;) |
It also belongs here, on my weapon of choice:
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how do they consistently take something beautiful and "reproduce" it in a odd and misshapen way? im almost impressed how consistantly they pull it off.
i have to admit i like the look of the blade but the whole thing looks chunky compaired to the original.
but at $85 its an option for the guys who want a rondel, but would rather spend the big bucks on the big swords
to each his own
i have to admit i like the look of the blade but the whole thing looks chunky compaired to the original.
but at $85 its an option for the guys who want a rondel, but would rather spend the big bucks on the big swords
to each his own
I agree about the brass, it's a little tacky, but it still looks like an interesting rondel. I have their English rondel, which appears to be discontinued, and it is a very good piece for the 75.00 I paid for it. I polished it myself, from 200 grit to 1000 grit and it's not a lot more attractive than the laquer coated blade was. It's also very sturdy and pretty handy as well. I am a sucker for a good rondel, so I might pick this brass hilted one up and check it out. For 85.00 bucks, I can't complain too much, if it's around the usual Windlass quality.
And by the way, an Albion Dagger line sounds really cool, someone should suggest it to them.....
And by the way, an Albion Dagger line sounds really cool, someone should suggest it to them.....
Nicholas Zeman wrote: |
And by the way, an Albion Dagger line sounds really cool, someone should suggest it to them..... |
That's been discussed several times on this forum. A search should good you more info. :)
Lacquered or yellowed brass looks terrible in any shape. I suspect this weapon would look dramatically better with a dark patina created by simple ammonia fuming. With an antiqued blade, so much the better. For the more ambitious, a little time with a file or Dremel tool could work wonders. Brass is very soft and easily worked. Typical Windlass project piece.
I should add a note in defense of nonferrous metals :): Brass gave admirable service on an enormous variety of hangers, swords and sabers from the 17th century through the 19th. These were not decorative pieces but combat arms. The fact that many are still around while their iron cousins have long since rusted away demonstrates one of the great benefits of nonferrous furniture. Ease of casting and, thus, standardization, is another.
I should add a note in defense of nonferrous metals :): Brass gave admirable service on an enormous variety of hangers, swords and sabers from the 17th century through the 19th. These were not decorative pieces but combat arms. The fact that many are still around while their iron cousins have long since rusted away demonstrates one of the great benefits of nonferrous furniture. Ease of casting and, thus, standardization, is another.
I just got one of these. A full review will appear on our reviews page (once I write it). I thought folks might like to see more pictures of it.
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Not that I'm a big authority on rondels, but isn't that grip way to long???
Thomas Hoogendam wrote: |
Not that I'm a big authority on rondels, but isn't that grip way to long??? |
That's because it's a hand-and-a-half rondel ....... :p :lol:
Even if not aged I find just removing the varnish from the brass on Windlass swords or knives improves the look as well as a more brushed satin finish that can age slowly or more rapidly if one uses artificial means to accelerate the process.
My Windlass falcata also has a brass hilt that I will sand down to a less garish finish and I will probably create a " faux " damascus finish on the blade using my favourite lemon juice and patterned toilet paper that I leave on the blade over night after soaking the paper with the lemon juice. Cleaning, followed by gun blue that darkens the bottoms of the etched surface and followed by a repeat of the polishing only partially removing the bluing: The results are are a nice pattern on the blade that looks somewhat like a forged and patinated blade. ( A little or a lot of polishing depending on how much patination one wants to keep )
Back to the rondel: It does look interesting ! Chad, could you do a close up of the tip of the blade as I would like a closer look at the bevels on the last few inches of blade. How is the heat treat of the blade ? ( I assume the current Windlass decent edge holding hardness ? )
Thomas Hoogendam wrote: |
Not that I'm a big authority on rondels, but isn't that grip way to long??? |
The only thing I can come up with on that is if you were wearing a pair of gauntlets the extra padding and mass around your hand would make it a bit difficult to hold without the longer handel.
Bill Duncan wrote: |
The only thing I can come up with on that is if you were wearing a pair of gauntlets the extra padding and mass around your hand would make it a bit difficult to hold without the longer handel. |
That's what Windlass claims, too. However, I put on my not-so-slim gauntlets and there was still too much extra room. It would have been nice if MRL had stuck closer to the size of similar originals.
Jean Thibodeau wrote: |
Back to the rondel: It does look interesting ! Chad, could you do a close up of the tip of the blade as I would like a closer look at the bevels on the last few inches of blade. How is the heat treat of the blade ? ( I assume the current Windlass decent edge holding hardness ? ) |
I have plenty of other pictures, but they'll be saved for the official review. I can't give it all away now, can I? :)
The blade tip is a stout, thick diamond section for the last inch or so. There is a false edge that creates two bevels on the back side of the blade and after the edge ends a similar thing happens to the front, giving a very lethal point.
The blade is very stiff and has held up to a dozen or so hard thrusts into furniture board (an old cabinet wall) with no damage whatsoever. I can't test the edge hardness as it isn't sharp and the "edge" isn't beveled enough to produce an easily sharpenable edge.
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