Hi all,
I am a new member here and relatively new to the arms and armour hobby, despite having been interested in weapons since a very young age. I've found out about this site a few months ago and within a week had read every hands on review and looked at all the antique arms and armor photos. This site really tought me more than I thought possible and i'm really glad that someone took the time to make such a nice website.

This year for Christmas I recieved a MRL Arbedo sword; my first half decent sword (I've had a few cheap wallhanger types). I had read some reviews of Windlass swords here and talked to a few friends about them but I wasn't quite sure what to expect. When I recieved the sword I was quite pleased with it from an aesthetic standpoint and naturally wanted to try some test cutting. Looking at the unsharpened blade I was not very confident but I tried cutting a water filled half-gallon milk jug. It cut it in half with surprising ease and next I did some thrusts and cuts on a large cardboard box. When I was finished the blade was completely unharmed but there was a slight rattle around the gaurd. I tried shaking the gaurd and it moved back and forth very slightly. Is there a way I can get rid of that looseness? If anyone knows a good way to remedy this or has any experience with this sword in particular please let me know.

I'd really appreciate any tips or advice.

Hi Shae and welcome! :)
maybe this can help you, http://bjorn.foxtail.nu/bonk_eng.htm

Shae,
Welcome to myArmoury.com. :) Patrik's link is for re-tightening peened pommels. If the Arbedo's is peened, then that may do it. Looking at the pic on MRL's site, it's hard to tell. The easiest way to tell is to see if looks like blade material from the tang has passed though the pommel and been hammered down to secure it.

If it is not, it may be threaded. If that's the case it will need to be tightened without rotating the pommel off-kilter. If it is threaded (ie. screwed on), then you may be able to take the pommel off and insert a leather washer between the grip and pommel and screw it back on.

Also, I've moved your thread here since, apart from the personal introduction, it does deal with replica arms, making the Historical Arms Talk forum appropriate.

Shae,

Welcome! I can't add a whole lot to what Patrick and Chad have already mentioned. I do have one thought, though. If the pommel is threaded, and you need to put in a leather spacer, you could take the grip off as well, and put the spacer, in the form of a rain guard, between the guard and the grip. It would be historically accurate for the period to which the Arbedo belongs, but it would cause it to deviate from the original even more. It's up to you.

Just in case you need a picture, here is what I am talking about:
[ Linked Image ] [ Linked Image ]
These are from when I re-did the grip, which is why there are two different pictures of the same sword together.

-Grey

If it isn't obviously peened, but doesn't want to turn, gently tap the top of the pommel with a mallet a few times. That may loosen it enough to allow it to unscrew. To permanently fix the rattle, I'd suggest removing the grip (it should just slide off) and applying some JB Weld epoxy to the space inside the cross and inside the lower part of the grip. Then put the grip back on and apply some JB Weld in the hole in the pommel. Replace the pommel and make sure it is perfectly aligned because you won't get a second chance with JB Weld. The sword would then be very solid. Alternately, use small wooden shims and wood glue. That would be reversable but should still solve the problem.

Thank you guys so much for your help. I looked at the sword's pommel and it appears to be welded instead of threaded but I could be wrong. Will I be able to get it off or tighten it at all? I have attached a few pictures to show what I mean.

---

 Attachment: 122.22 KB

pommel pic

Shae,

What you are looking at is where the end of the tang was peened and then ground flush. Though it does look like they might have done some welding in order to build up the area around the tang. That being the case, you should be able to use the information provided in Patrick's link, but I can't guarantee anything.

Trying it shouldn't be a problem, though. If it is welded and welded well, it just won't make a difference. If it is not welded or is welded poorly, you should be able to tighten up your sword just fine.

-Grey

I don't know if it would fly or not, but have you considered contacting MRL to see if they would do an exchange for another one? MRL's return policy is quite liberal, if memory serves, and taking a swing at a cardboard box aside, that peen doesn't look like it was in the best of shape to begin with. . .

Just my $.02. Enjoy your new sword and welcome!