Since we've been on the subject lately, I thought I'd post this, my first "project" sword. I've moved on and done better work on more historically accurate pieces, but it was an interesting project. I'm selling this one so it's a good time to declare it finished. The photos with the chamois liner and brass wire wrap are the most recent.

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Two more photos. FYI-This was an MRL "Culloden". I changed the blade cross section below the fullers from flattened diamond to more lenticular, rounded the point a bit, sharpened blade, antiqued and later restored blade, sanded awful nickel finish of basket to satin, removed blatantly incorrect solid wrist gaurd, japanned and gilded hilt with reference to an original mid-17th c. mortuary sword, and hand-sewed a chamois liner with black ribbon border. Do you reckon that foliate gilding took me awhile to do???? It was fun and I learned a tremendous amount by researching the changes, but I'm going to try to make room for some new projects.

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Hey Sean, wonderful job on making your MRL piece look better! The chamois liner looks really nice, as does your japanning and gilding. Not a bad bit of work for a $160 or so sword. Any other plans for this, or another of MRL's pieces?

Thanks! The second piece I worked on, MRL's Scottish backsword, looks outstanding. I antiqued that one and will post some photos here when I get a chance to take some. The MRL falchion I reviewed for myArmoury.com is coming along nicely (at this point all I'm doing is watching it sit on a shelf and get darker and rustier). It's surprising how the finishes of the antiqued pieces mellow over a few months. You can see the state of the falchion's patina just after the last cleaning (summer) by viewing this image- http://www.myArmoury.com/view.html?reviews/mrl_falc_c.jpg

Interestingly, I think the backsword has the most convincing patina because I used a couple of different solutions on it (vinegar/salt and raw crushed grapes). The stains and pits have no real pattern or uniformity. Indecision helped, too, because I redid the grip several times so the staining is very dark, with some scratches and dents and tiny traces of leather remaining. My next project is to antique one of those nifty little Prussian hangers MRL is selling for around $95. May do some reworking of the knucklebow, abuse and antiquing of the brass and antiquing of the blade. Judging from the look of surviving specimens, I think the results could be very convincing. I'd like to do the same with a Confederate infantry sword. I'm trying to focus my collection/attention on military/infantry weapons, which is another reason I'm trying to sell the basket hilt.

That's some beautiful work! :)
What do you mean by "japanned"? I some references to it recently, but I'm not quite sure what it means. Is it a type of blueing or is it lacquer?

Thanks! In this case, it was whatever I happened to have lying around the garage! Technically, "Japanning" was the process of covering metal with black lacquer mainly to protect the steel. It also serves as a nice ground for gilding, of course. As I recall, this was a very practical finish more likely to be used on plain military weapons and items such as military shoe buckles (one of which served as my guide for getting this finish to look right). I've heard different info about the contents of the historical lacquer. One source I read suggested that it consisted of pitch and lamp black. Not having any pitch or lamp black handy (nor being willing to go all-out for an historically accurate finish for an historcally inaccurate replica) I used 2 layers of flat black enamel spray paint followed by a couple of layers of clear minwax hard sealant designed for wooden floors. The result was a bit too glossy compared to authentic japanned items so I lightly ran some fine steel wool over everything and was extremely pleased with the results. The gold enamel paint sits atop all, and is unprotected. Original japanning is very fragile and rarely survives. If you search over at SFI you'll find more discussion about modern authentic japanning experiments.
-Sean

Oooh...nice, and I love that bone grip. I've been wanting to experiment with bone, perhaps a new grip for my falchion. I'm eager to tinker with brass, too. I found a very interesting site that offers instructions on converting Atlanta Cutlery's Qama (VERY cheap) into a nice gladius. All the Roman stuff in my house belongs to my wife, and she likes it all nice and shiny, so I can't experiment.

Good looking work folks!

I was able to antique a stainless steel cabasset. After whacking it a few times with a kukri, sanding it all over and burying it in wet leaves for a week, I removed it, cleaned it all over with steel wool and repeated the leaf treatment/cleaning until I had the finish I wanted. Took several weeks, as I recall. I curious to see the results you get with extended burial.

Better already, brother, better already! I encountered the same problem of the upside rusting faster. What if you buried it edge-up? With classical weapons like this it's impractical and probably very difficult to get one to look like a real antique, anyway. Iron weapons of those era tend to be black, saw-edged, sword-shaped blobs with no grips. I'm finding that replicas of later pieces are actually able to fool the eye for a moment. I'm headed back into the workshop next week to make, antique and install a wire grip wrap. I'm curious to see how I'll get it as grungy-looking as most 350 year-old wire wraps. Hopefully, not far into the new year I'll be antiquing a replica of an 18th c. piece. I have high hopes for that one looking very authentic because photos of originals are readily available.
You know, this would be a highly valuable exercise for people interested in collecting originals. It's got to help to be able to identify the signs of articifical aging....

Sean,

Thanks for the suggestion of burying the sword on its edge. Once I get the cleaner side a little rusty I think I might try that.

I never really thought of trying to make any of my swords look like authentic artifacts—especially not to fool any authorities on the subject. If my distressed Frost Cutlery Gladius could fool an "expert," then that "expert" should check out the bronze swords on ebay... they will find pages of great deals there.

I really like the look (and the feel) of that oft replicated Sword of Tiberius. That Mainz style blade is a gorgeous design, IMO.
Even the grooves at the center of the blade seem to be part of the original.

I can appreciate bright and shiny, mirror polished, unused and unscratched swords... I even have one (DT 2140). It 's just that I have this personality flaw... Whenever I see one of these brand new swords, I want to give it a little "character." I prefer a collection of swords that look like they are in their prime (or maybe a little beyond). I would like to have a collection of professional swords, with a few scars, nearing retirement age after at least one lifetime of service. However, when I am done with this Frost Gladius, it will probably look like it is at the end of its second life.

BTW, I also have an 18th century project (surprise, surprise)… artifacts from my Pirate phase. I think I will start a new thread on these twin pirate swords. If not I'll be back here once I get the pictures together.

Later

ks

Yeah, I think a collector who would be fooled by anything I do should get out of the business. I like my replicas (all of which are obviously Windlass) to simply look old and used and possibly look authentic to folks who haven't seen many, or any, originals. They're not for sale, but if they were they'd be accompanied by 70 point font screaming "REPLICA". I'm actually proud of the fact that these were recently shiny, spotless things.
I look forward to seeing your "pirate project". If I can get my 17th c. wire wrap to turn out properly I'll post photos of that, too.

Sean,


When you finish, post a pic.... I would really like to see it and hear of any hints you might have.

ks