I would like to make a scabbard for my Del Tin 2132. Does any of you gentlemen know if there are books on that subject?
Or maybe you have tips for me how to handle.
Thanks!
Cor.

yeah, I would like to know that too.
:D

You may know about the book "Techniques of Medieval Armour Reproduction" by Brian R. Price. Since I don't have the book myself, I can only guess that it may contain a construction manual for a sword scabbard too.
Hopefully someone on the forum can answer this question :!:

I can recommend the following web sites:

1) http://www.dignitas-equestris.de

Note, that you can select some languages on the starting side.
The scabbard articles can be found in the "militaris" section under "Sword sheath".

2) www.conpac.de/diversestipslinks/scheide.html

German only, you must do the translation by hand e.g. using the google language tools.


Here is an additional tip:
A good glue to attach the inner wooden parts is the so called "Hasenleim" (*). This is a authentic and neutral glue. In spite of most modern glues it contains no acids, that could harm the blade of the sword.
You can get that exotic stuff in shops that sell artist and painting accessories like oil colors, pigments or canvases.

Hope that helps.


(*) The direct tanslation would be "rabbit" glue ! It is indeed made from waste parts of rabbits and other small animals.

There's nothing in Brian Price's book on the topic . It's strictly about armour . There was a series put out by the Tower
Armouries a few years back called "Arms In Action" shown on The History Channel here in the states ( i think you can still
get this series of videos on line ) that had an episode on "The Sword" which has a part showing a fellow making a
scabbard for a katan in the traditional manner that from what i've seen watching Eric and Kevin at Albion seems to
be not disimilar in how to go about it .

I thought hasen was a hare, but no matter. Hoof and horn glue would have similar properties I think, and is maybe easier to get hold of for some. I did most of my early woodwork with this, and it's quite strong provided you don't over heat it in preparation.

Here's some phots of Kevin Iseli forging a chape for one of the Albion Campaign-line scabbards:

[ Linked Image ]

Maybe we can encourage him to stop by and share some tips with us about this part, as well as the core and leatherwork aspects of scabbard making.

I have lots to say about the leather aspect, but would rather take a backseat to the pros!

Gentlemen,

Well, i am not a pro by any standards, but here are some tips from someone who has been at this for a few months.
First things first. Glue: I use hide glue. It works very well and is available at our local lumber yard. It can be use to adhere the wood halves of the core together and to bond a leather cover to the core. It is especially helpful for the latter operation as dried hide glue can be somewhat re-activated with water. There really is no formula for cutting the leather cover. It is still something that i struggle with on a regular basis. Using double faced tape helps to attach the basic pattern to the core and a rotary or fabric cutter can sometimes be used to cut a straight seem down the back of the core where the leather edges meet or overlap. ( Please forgive me. I'm finding it very hard to describe the process without the use of illustrations!)

When making a custom scabbard for a specific sword the really is no escaping having to chisel out the inner channel on each side. Some gross reduction can be done with a hand held router, but the final shaping will need to be manual.
The best way to do this is to trace the blade onto each side of what will be your core first. Measure the thickness of the blade every few inches or so, and chisel half that depth on the wood slats within the lines you just traced. Clamp both halves together to test fit the sword frequently. When you are satisfied glue the halves and re-clamp.

Once the glue is dry, the outside of the core can be sanded down to the desired shape. The leather cover can be glued on,sewn on or secured using a combination of both techniques.

Fashioning the chape is also quite tricky. you will need to make some sort of steel mandrel that is very close in shape to the covered core, to shape the chape on. The simple U chape in Nathan's photos starts as a 6" x 1" piece of steel,iron, bronze etc. From there it is heating and beating the metal into submission (and desired shape). Chapes can be riveted, glued or pinched tightly ti the scabbard.

I think that covers the general process. I will be happy to try and answer any other questions that come up. I appologize in advance for slow replies (i' usually check the forum at Albion, and i've really been busy as of late :)
As for tips from the Pro's, maybe Eric McHugh or Christian Fletcher can add some polish to this relatively inarticulate and somewhat rushed response. In any case, good luckwith all your scabbard projects!

All my best,