Hello all,
I am starting a Company of the 71st Fraser Highlanders (Rev War) in my area (Barrie, Ontario) and need some advice about a good Scottish baskethilt. I have looked at the Hanwei swords with interest. (I cannot afford to have us traipse around the bush with $1000 swords!). Can anyone give me advice as to whether the Hanwei swords are good value for the money? Also are there any other makers in the price range that offer a decent, realistic and well priced basket hilt?
Thanks,
Brian Luscombe
Moved to "historic arms talk" forum. Please read to see why: http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic/163.html
The baskethilt offerings by Cold Steel are a decent value for the money !
( any web search will turn up sites that offer these products)
Here are some stats & comments, on their broadsword model, by Vince Evans.
[ Linked Image ]
Blade Length: 32-1/4"
Blade Width at Hilt: 1-9/16"
Blade Width 3" from Tip: 1-1/8"
Blade Thickness at Hilt: 7/32"
Blade Thickness 2" from Tip: 1/8"
Tang Width: .535"
POB: 4-3/4"
COP: 10-3/4" from tip
Overall Length: 39-1/2"
Total Weight (not including sheath): 3 lb. 4 oz.
Fullers: approximately 18" in length
Grip: 5"
Blade Weight: 1 lb. 9-3/4 oz.
Hilt Weight (basket & components): 1 lb. 10-1/4 oz.
Basket Width: 5"
Basket Depth: 5" (front of basket to additional rear guards)
Basket Height: 5"
Thickness of Bars of Basket: .114"
Manufactured in India
[ Linked Image ]
My overall impression is that this Cold Steel Basket Hilt is not a bad
sword for the price, although having handled quite a few original basket
hilts, I'm somewhat biased.
[ Linked Image ]
* Pic of an original Regimental baskethilt that the Cold Steel model appears to be based on!
The blade seems to be very tough, although a little thick on the edge. I
flexed the blade 8" without it taking a set. The fullers are nicely done,
as are the grip and the sheath. The grip is wire-bound leather over wood
with a blued steel ferrule. The basket is well constructed, although it
has some sharp edges that could be rounded with a file. The forward guards
should have been rounded bars to match the basket instead of flat strips.
The hilt is constructed in traditional military style with a recessed tang
nut. A piece of 1/8" music wire takes it apart, revealing a hollow pommel.
Personally, I think the pommel should have been solid. When re-assembled,
the end of the grip tends to sink into the hollow pommel.
[ Linked Image ]
I also noticed,
while doing some light cutting, that the blade can twist slightly at the
guard due to an oversized tang hole.
[ Linked Image ]
I haven't done any heavy cutting with it but Cold Steel has a reputation
for tough blades.
-Vince Evans , April 2002
[ Linked Image ]
( any web search will turn up sites that offer these products)
Here are some stats & comments, on their broadsword model, by Vince Evans.
[ Linked Image ]
Blade Length: 32-1/4"
Blade Width at Hilt: 1-9/16"
Blade Width 3" from Tip: 1-1/8"
Blade Thickness at Hilt: 7/32"
Blade Thickness 2" from Tip: 1/8"
Tang Width: .535"
POB: 4-3/4"
COP: 10-3/4" from tip
Overall Length: 39-1/2"
Total Weight (not including sheath): 3 lb. 4 oz.
Fullers: approximately 18" in length
Grip: 5"
Blade Weight: 1 lb. 9-3/4 oz.
Hilt Weight (basket & components): 1 lb. 10-1/4 oz.
Basket Width: 5"
Basket Depth: 5" (front of basket to additional rear guards)
Basket Height: 5"
Thickness of Bars of Basket: .114"
Manufactured in India
[ Linked Image ]
My overall impression is that this Cold Steel Basket Hilt is not a bad
sword for the price, although having handled quite a few original basket
hilts, I'm somewhat biased.
[ Linked Image ]
* Pic of an original Regimental baskethilt that the Cold Steel model appears to be based on!
The blade seems to be very tough, although a little thick on the edge. I
flexed the blade 8" without it taking a set. The fullers are nicely done,
as are the grip and the sheath. The grip is wire-bound leather over wood
with a blued steel ferrule. The basket is well constructed, although it
has some sharp edges that could be rounded with a file. The forward guards
should have been rounded bars to match the basket instead of flat strips.
The hilt is constructed in traditional military style with a recessed tang
nut. A piece of 1/8" music wire takes it apart, revealing a hollow pommel.
Personally, I think the pommel should have been solid. When re-assembled,
the end of the grip tends to sink into the hollow pommel.
[ Linked Image ]
I also noticed,
while doing some light cutting, that the blade can twist slightly at the
guard due to an oversized tang hole.
[ Linked Image ]
I haven't done any heavy cutting with it but Cold Steel has a reputation
for tough blades.
-Vince Evans , April 2002
[ Linked Image ]
It depends on which model you're most interested in. The older Chen/hanwei basket hilts (#1048 (the Stirling hilt) and #1080 (often referred to as a "Glasgow", but is probably more accurately a Regimental-issue sword a'la Jeffries or Drury)) tend to have overly large hilts, poor balance, and are overly heavy.
The newer models (2002 Broadsword and 2003 Backsword) are far superior to the older ones in terms of handling and basket size. Plus, they come in "Practical" versions (ie unedged swords for reenactment purposes), as the #2075 backsword and #2059 broadsword.
I would say the newer Hanwei swords are pretty good deals for the money.
The Cold Steel swords are also good swords for the money (they only come in "nasty sharp" versions, no practical versions available).
The newer models (2002 Broadsword and 2003 Backsword) are far superior to the older ones in terms of handling and basket size. Plus, they come in "Practical" versions (ie unedged swords for reenactment purposes), as the #2075 backsword and #2059 broadsword.
I would say the newer Hanwei swords are pretty good deals for the money.
The Cold Steel swords are also good swords for the money (they only come in "nasty sharp" versions, no practical versions available).
Great, thanks for the info, now I feel better about the sword having never handled one.
Brian
Brian
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