Well, I recieved my first Albion sword, which also happened to be the first steel pommel Count Albion built. What can I say, I love the thing. It's really beautiful and feels like an extension of my body. How do you guys polish up your swords. I'm just using ultra fine scotchbrite pads (Albion recommended) and some break-free oil. I think there are some early, early signs of rust right where the blade joins the cross. How do I get down in there, and also how hard should I press when rubbing with the scotchbrite pad. Thanks.
Charles-
Congratulations! You're in for it now, my friend. Be prepared for endless pools of drool and nights of longing for your next one! :D I'm still amazed with my Baron, and I can't wait to get another Albion.
As for the scotchbrite, I don't think you need to press very hard. But I'll pass that on to more knowledgeable folk out there...
Enjoy your sword in good health!
Scott
Congratulations! You're in for it now, my friend. Be prepared for endless pools of drool and nights of longing for your next one! :D I'm still amazed with my Baron, and I can't wait to get another Albion.
As for the scotchbrite, I don't think you need to press very hard. But I'll pass that on to more knowledgeable folk out there...
Enjoy your sword in good health!
Scott
| Scott H. wrote: |
| Congratulations! You're in for it now, my friend. Be prepared for endless pools of drool and nights of longing for your next one! :D I'm still amazed with my Baron, and I can't wait to get another Albion. |
Nice choice, the Count. Like it in all steel... well-done light brown grip, too.
Yup. I'm pretty much addicted to those long white boxes (and the treasures found within). Heck, I'd be almost as happy just being there when someone else got one, just to see what's inside. (My next box will probably be the Svante! :cool: ) You'll be feening soon, needing another fix, break down, start drooling over the catalog... it's a "horrible" cycle. :p
| Quote: |
| As for the scotchbrite, I don't think you need to press very hard. But I'll pass that on to more knowledgeable folk out there... |
You have to put a little pressure so it will actually clean, but not much. If your hand gets tired, you're pushing too hard. Some form of penetrating oil (which break-free is) will do most of the cleaning itself. Also, those edges are nasty sharp - you may not even realize you got cut (did that on my Knight - had blood running to my elbow, noticed it was wet...) and getting oil and grit down into the cut isn't exactly the best idea. I use 2-3 fingertips with about the same pressure you would use to scratch with, resting the blade across my lap on an old, soft, oily towel (an old one used for cleaning both swords and guns on... picked up some oil through repeated use). The corner of the pad can get into some tight areas - again, watch those edges.
Do try to sand in the the same direction on the blade ( should be length wise ) and try to do it in as parallel a direction as possible, any side to side semicircular motion will stand out rather than blend in.
If you use a grit size the same as the original finish, you should get this polishing to match.
If you are doing the pommel and other furniture, have a close look with a magnifying glass to see the direction of the original finish. You may find that on these the direction is semicircular and random, even if it is all in one direction on the blade.
DON'T use a coarser grit as that will only scratch up the blade, too fine a grit is less of a problem as you can always do the entire blade with this grit or go over the blade again with the right but coarser grit.
If your finger tips run to close to the edge you WILL cut yourself, maybe not badly, but it is annoying ! If you're really clumsy, cutting down to the bone is a possibility. Also very close to the edge you may accidentally dull the edge with the abrasive.
Oil with Breakfree or better yet get some Renaissance wax to protect the surface from future rust.
If you use a grit size the same as the original finish, you should get this polishing to match.
If you are doing the pommel and other furniture, have a close look with a magnifying glass to see the direction of the original finish. You may find that on these the direction is semicircular and random, even if it is all in one direction on the blade.
DON'T use a coarser grit as that will only scratch up the blade, too fine a grit is less of a problem as you can always do the entire blade with this grit or go over the blade again with the right but coarser grit.
If your finger tips run to close to the edge you WILL cut yourself, maybe not badly, but it is annoying ! If you're really clumsy, cutting down to the bone is a possibility. Also very close to the edge you may accidentally dull the edge with the abrasive.
Oil with Breakfree or better yet get some Renaissance wax to protect the surface from future rust.
Charles,
First of all: congratulations to your new sword. I am happy you like it.
To do polish at the meeting of balde and guard, you should use scotch brit pad of the grey fine type. In corners you might find it handy to press the pad down with a flat, thin stick of wood; a thin wedge. If you use the edge of this you can reach into the corner. Thinner wedge will help you reach further into the corner. You do not have to use strogn pressure. It is beeter to work deliberately and carefully.
As has been said before, it is a good idea to polish along the length of the blade or the marks will stand out a bit.
It is a good idea to kep your sword oiled or protected with car wax if you do not like stains or a darkening effect over time. As the sword is made from carbon steel, it will most probably darken somewhat over time. That is only natural and can be quite a beautifull effect.
Best
Peter
First of all: congratulations to your new sword. I am happy you like it.
To do polish at the meeting of balde and guard, you should use scotch brit pad of the grey fine type. In corners you might find it handy to press the pad down with a flat, thin stick of wood; a thin wedge. If you use the edge of this you can reach into the corner. Thinner wedge will help you reach further into the corner. You do not have to use strogn pressure. It is beeter to work deliberately and carefully.
As has been said before, it is a good idea to polish along the length of the blade or the marks will stand out a bit.
It is a good idea to kep your sword oiled or protected with car wax if you do not like stains or a darkening effect over time. As the sword is made from carbon steel, it will most probably darken somewhat over time. That is only natural and can be quite a beautifull effect.
Best
Peter
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