While I'm definitely a HEMA guy I also like Japanese style blades.
Because it's said that "the sword is the soul of the samurai" some time ago I decided to build a katana that would be appropriate for the person I am today.
I was 64 when I started this project and wanted to give it a sense of growth and flowering - also, because it's a deadly weapon death and rebirth -there's more but I leave that to the imagination.
I prefer subtlety to in-your-face symbolism.
I'm aware that most katanas don't carry such 'messages'...to each his own.
PIC 1 - Mind you the furniture is not a set, the similarity in style is a lucky coincidence.
The tsuka was made in China to my specifications, the brass tsuba was purchased from a Japanese seller.
After the deal was made the seller told me the tsuba's actually an Edo era antique but as I have no way to verify that I cannot be certiain and in any case, it's not important.
PIC 2 - I ran out of money and nothing happened for almost a year. When I could finally afford it I ordered a blade and saya made to my soecifications from sinosword dot com. We had a pleasant interaction - they're friendly and their English is good.
The blade arrived wrapped in a nice cotton sword bag, a pleasant surprise.
PIC 3 - Close-up of the assembled sword.
PIC 4 - Close-up of the blade. If I remember correctly traditional Japanese blades are folded because the steel isn't great - folded steel blades are beautiful but personally I believe proper steel is better. I lack expertise so I may very well be wrong. I chose T-10 steel for mine - it has a somewhat faint irregular hamon - as this is a mirror polish it's likely that the hamon would stand out more with a better polish. I'm considering clearing it up a bit but I have not made up my mind yet. I may decide to keep it as is - as I'm taller and stronger than the average Japanese I opted for a 31" blade instead of the 'normal' 28". - I also wanted a short fuller/bo-hi to make it slightly tip-heavy as I like that. Naginata style so to say. Uncommon but not unique.
Proper niku aka appleseed edge to prevent chipping. Shobu-zukuri as I'm not convinced a yokote is actually useful and they're difficult and expensive to do properly. Extra long tip as I like to stab opponents. (kidding)
PIC 5 - The sword isn't just what I wanted but actually exceeds my expectations. It's pleasantly noticeable heavier than the Cheness katana I used to have. The steel is better than the steel of my Albion Mercenary. There's a bit of flex but less than the Albion blade and I don't think I can bend it. While mainly for display the sword can be used for daily cutting exercises i.e. it's not really a wall-hanger.
I should add that I own an early Mercenary and Albion chose a better steel for their later swords I think.
It weighs 1120 grams as the Merc weighs 1340 I believe and is also a little shorter.
For combat (I hope that will never happen) I would choose the Mercenary as it's more versatile. Still, my HEMA skills easily translate to Japanese style blades - while the kat's curved and single-edge the swords are actually quite similar.
PIC 6 - I have not cut with it yet but am planning a cutting session next year with my swordfighting instructor and a few other people. Pool noodles and plastic bottles and such. Tatamis are too much of a hassle for me. I'm curious to see which of my swords cuts best - My rapier can probably do a pool noodle too and I'm eager to try that.
Not long ago a project like this would have been crazy expensive - nowadays the whole thing cost me about 300 euros. A complete katana of similar materials is cheaper - Folded/tahamagane and/or laminated blades and fancy furniture can rack up the price of course.
Follow-up plan : a companion tanto in similar style.
Like some samurai I'm not fond of the katana/wakizashi daisho.
I think the tanto is more effective than the wak in small spaces.
Like phone booths and such.
Unless the opponent's Clark Kent of course in which case it doesn't matter.
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