So I've finally scraped together enough money for some new swords, just in time for my tastes to change from longsword to early-mid 19th century sabers. I will be buying a couple practice sabers, probably Regenyei's Easton type, and also a sharp to test cut and have fun with. The problem I am encountering is that I can't seem to find a high quality reproduction of what I want. I'm mostly settled on the British 1821/22 pattern saber variants with the Wilkinson style blade, or the US M1850 foot officers/M1859 NCO sabers. Antiques aren't that hard to find in good condition and are relatively cheap, but the only reproductions I can find are like those from Military Heritage/Discriminating General or Universal Swords like this one (scroll down a bit):

http://www.militaryheritage.com/swords2.htm

I'm not sure if those are good, accurate reproductions, especially at that price point. I've also been looking at antiques, but am worried about cutting with a blade that may already be damaged. One that I found has a nick in the blade about 10-12 inches from the point, but is otherwise exactly what I want. Another is $200 more, but the blade doesn't have any nicks. Can I cut with a nick in the blade? Do I just need to file the nick a little so it doesn't crack? With as plentiful as these swords are, I don't feel too bad about using them, but I still don't want to break one. I won't be doing destructive tests, just the usual water bottle, melon, newspaper, and tatami mats.

Finally, could I get a new historically correct saber made by someone for similar money? I don't know anyone who does sharp sabers.

Thanks,
Adam

Unfortunately, you won't find a really good quality repro saber. They're all clunkers compared to the originals which are fairly cheap, at least enough so that I wouldn't feel too concerned over using one to cut with.

With reproductions, browse the early modern section at Kult of Athena, as their sharpening service is said to be pretty good. When I decided I needed a reproduction saber for driiling and cutting, I went for a less curved foot officer sword. Completely anachronistic but a length I was looking for and I spent a lot of time with a file and stone to thin the blade a bit. far left in our view of this picture is the reproduction.

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Fifth from our left (next to the two shorter eagle pommel swords) is a mounted artillery sword from the 1820s-1830s that I bought specifically to cut with. I have also cut with a very modified/re-ground Cold Steel 1796.

For something in the British 1821 cavalry vein, there is the Windlass US Dragoon sword for cheap (the numbers are not horrible.
http://kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=501146

Look also to Legendary Arms and other sutlers for India made swords. As Patrick aptly points out, reproductions vs period swords show two different animals.

There are a number of period British 1821 types floating around the auctions and dealers but expect to pay for a sword in using condition. There is the late 19th century Portuguese 1821 likesabers (single ring scabbard) that show up in great shape for about $400.

My own reproduction is heavy, even after slimming the blade but as mentioned, exactly the size and form I was looking for. I was not looking for a cavalry sword to drill with.

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The largest differences between the reproductions and period swords is often the stock thicknesses before distal distribution. Some sabres and other swords as thick as 3/8" thick at the guard, even some slim epee, with radical concave distal vs the more linear distal most reproductions have. However, even a lot of period swords of the 19th century starty to lean that way as well The mounted artillery sabre I bought for cutting is one such, it is quite light but lacks the radical distal we see on some.

In the end, if you want a repro to drill and cut with, go with something you think you'll like. For a using period sword, look for someting in superior build condition. The later 19th century stuff have the best value by cost but stay away from dress swords for that. Look for trooper type swords.

If you are looking to bouting, that is a whole other ball of wax. I defer to those guys for recommendations. I am just a hack ;)

Cheers

GC

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I bet all these swords are suitable for test-cutting.
Plus, I have 1 question:
Is the Portuguese 1821 cavalry sabre, the 1st sword in the picture, a repro or original?

If you decide to use an antique for cutting, make sure it there is nothing special about it, e.g. provenance, special pattern, etc.. It would be sad, in my opinion, to degrade or destroy a unique piece of history when so many common, unprovenanced (is that a word?) or standard pattern swords are out there. Good luck!

Jonathan

Glen, I am super jealous of your collection, so many nice pieces. I guess antique is the way to go for what I want to do. Out of the few I really like, the one I like most has a nick in the blade, can I cut with that, or should I spend a little more and find one with a better blade? All say they're nice and tight/firm in the hilt, with only light patches of pitting. Here is a picture of the artillery officer's saber with the nick.



Here is one of the others that I like, a dragoon variant.

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The price difference is about $200, and puts the nicer one at the top edge of my range. Worth the extra money, or will I be fine with the first one?

Hi Adam, sometimes you cannot judge a sword until you have it in hand. A deep nick might worry me and a sword having undue corrosion may have a rotted grip core.. As to price, it can be worthwhile in the long run to pay for a nicer sword. With my cutter, I looked at a lot of pictures opf it, ascertained with the owner it was sharp and got it at a price many pay for a reproduction. Small nicks can be dressed out but a rotten grip core may be a nightmare if you wanted a user.

Cheers

GC

I did it! I found a sabre that I like for a good price and got my wife to approve! Why she had to approve what I spent my allowance on is a mystery. Plus, she's holding it hostage until I get some house stuff done. But still, I got a sword! It's a 1821 pattern artillery officers sword from 1870s-ish, and has Pembroke artillery on it. Made by Hill brothers 3 Old Bond St London. Blade is in excellent shape, a little discoloration near the tip, no pitting. Blade is tight to the hilt, but there is a slight wobble to the wood grip at the bottom. I have a few pictures, but they're not very good. It will be a while before I get better ones, again, it's being held hostage. My questions are, how do I sharpen it (seems to have never been sharpened), and how do I take care of the grip (provided I can do something about it)?



Little guy is my middle child, girl is a friend's that was over to play

Hostage? :eek: You may have to find one for yourself as well :lol:

Hopefully Jonathan will chime in on this one, as it is in his field of expertise. The way I secure grip movement is usually super glue, the runny kind. I like the artillery and engineer etches and the blade form overall.

Cheers

GC

British service swords were generally sharpened by the military using grinding wheels. I use files (draw filing) and stones, going along the edge in small sections, then long strokes. Belt grinders have become popular with sword enthusiasts. The thing about files and stones is that you can screw it up slowly ;)

Since this is a very etched blade, one would only want to mar that small width but at as low an angle as possible. I would ping Jonathan first though. What I had mentioned about finding that cutting specific sword rings true in that. If you are determined to sharpen this one, you might want to farm it out to someone (and chew your fingernails in apprehension).

Possession being nine tenths of the law, you have to get your sword back first anyway ;) (kidding but she may never let you sharpen her sword)

Good luck

GC

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Okay, I don't know if I have the patience to do it with stones unless there's a really easy to use kit that sets the angle for you. I did find this video that uses a little belt grinder. Would this be a good idea?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jfD1_gHpraw

Okay, just got around to watching that video. Doesn't look too hard. Would something like this one be better?


http://m.sears.com/craftsman-21513-1-3-hp-ele...921513000P

That looks like the angle of the belt assembly is adjustable, personally I wouldn't mess with it because it's not a necessary feature but it introduces more points of articulation. If the screw that holds the angle on the belt lets go while you're sharpening you could damage your sword. I use a Dremel 1x30 belt and disk sander that I've had for most of my life so I'm not up on all the current brands but this offering from Grizzly,

http://grizzly.com/products/Belt-Sander-1-x-30-/H3140

is of the general type, it just doesn't have the sanding disk that you probably won't use anyway.