Lately I have been talking about the fact that soon I will offer hot-peening as an assembly option for ATrim swords, well folks here's the first one and there are more to come.


This is an old model of Gus' that is a type XIV inspired by Oakeshott's beloved antique "Moonbrand." even though it is technically a type XIV, Gus has always considered these swords to be just as legitimately classified as a XIIIb. the profile tapers a little too strongly for the classic XIIIb but only just barely and pretty much everything else is spot on.

specs:
Overall length: 37"
Blade Length: 31"
POB: 5"
weight: 2 lbs 12 oz
grip length: 4"
type 2 cross
large type I pommel



I did the grip in a dark burgundy red leather that has a very nice color being almost black on casual observance but then turning red as the light hits it.



the seam of the leather is easy to see but is very difficult to feel.



this pommel will soon be added to the web site for use on all ATrims. the large type I that used to be used on the Austrian Great Sword was a Chinese cast version of this pommel.



I chose to hide the riveted end by blending it into the pommel as a slight ridge that gives the pommel a slight out-of-round appearance that I find quite attractive





this sword marks the return of the higher quality ATrim swords.
I am going to offer this one as a munitions grade for a discounted price because the leather work does have a slight flaw in it where I got a little careless with the grinder and let it bite the grip. I personally guarantee the leather will hold up to any normal use and that this flaw will not cause it any trouble. if it does I will replace the grip free of charge.



asking price:
$425 + shipping

Looks great Tom, I really like the look of the peening.

Paul

Looking good Tom.

Looks REAL good Tom. Would you all be offering peen blocks as well?

Tom,
I'm assuming this a true peened tang instead of the old filled hexnut you've used in the past. Is the grip put on as a sandwich after the peening is done? Are you fitting the pommel and guard very tightly to the tang?

Some customers get caught up in the issue of whether heat was used in the peen, when the real value of the system used by that other company (:)) is the tight fitting of components more so than heat.

Mike,
we have plans for peen blocks but that is down the road yet.

Chad,
the fact that some customers really want a peen made with heat and hammer is what lead us to develop our method of hot peening as used on this sword.

here's what we do:
the guard is made with a tang-slot that is smaller than the tang and must be pressed/hammered into place. Gus being a machinist often tells me how many thousandths of an inch the difference is but I can never keep it straight. what I do know is that I can clamp the blade in my vice and yank, tug, or hang from the guard and not even dislodge it let alone remove it. removal would require a hammer and heavy pounding.

next the grip core is layed out with a groove cut in it to form a tight fit to the tang along the entire length. we then glue the core together and wrap it in cord and glue. this cord wrap provides strength in the direction opposite of the wood grain in which the wood is weak. this creates strength in the same way as plywood. the grip core with cord wrap is then pressed into place on the tang and epoxied.

at this point (once the epoxy has cured) the sword can be used safely and will not come apart. the combination of press fit and epoxy is stronger than the wood core and to remove it one would have to break it or cut it off.

the pommel is snug fit but not pressed on like the guard and grip. it may not fall off if inverted but it can be pulled off easily. the tang that sticks out the back side of the pommel is heated up with a torch and hammered down onto the pommel tightening it into place. it is riveted down until it is very tight and immovable. the pommel back has a recessed area to allow more of the peen head to form and hold the pommel in place.

next I grind the peen into a clean shape, clean up all the mess I have made on it thus far and then I apply the leather right over the top of it all trimming to fit.

one thing I learned on this particular sword is to not put the leather on until all the grinding is done. it made me sad when I let the belt bite this grip and I'm going to make sure it doesn't happen again.

I hope everyone is able to follow that, I'll be happy to answer questions and/or clear things up.