Up until about half a year ago I used to own a DT5157 and was quite impressed with it but sold it on ebay to support my firearm collection. Recently I decided to down size and trade out most of my sword collection and have been looking at lower end makes like DSA and Hanwei Tinker but them stumbled on the DT5140.

http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=...Half+Sword

I already have a type XIIA from Albion and though originally wanted an XIIIA I think a more thrust oriented longsword would suit me better as I have a good XIIA already. I plan on sharpening it myself and using it for backyard cutting and costume. I'd get the sword regripped and a scabbard for it. I know it can cut when sharpened but don't expect it to slice like a XIIA but that's okay because this is a more thrust oriented weapon. The only issue I have is I know Del Tins are cold peened. I used my DT5157 for backyard cutting and never really had the hilt looseness issue. When I get it, should I break out the padded vise and reach for a ball peen hammer? I didn't need to for my other Del Tin but I read some reviews on this sword here that indicate it may need it. I know it won't be the best bottle slicer but I'm confident I can get it to cut.

Repeening a Del Tin is not a great problem, I did it many times with just a hammer. Regarding 5140, it's a great sword, I don't have it but I handled it a few times and I really like it. The XXa blade is very nice, the sword has quite robust feeling but the balance is good and it's not a slow sword. You will like it.

The problem with Del Tins coming loose has little to nothing to do with whether they peen cold or hot. Don't get hung up on whether heat was used in the peen. The wood they use for their grips is soft and susceptible to changes in humidity. Their guards and crosses are sometimes made of iron rather than steel and are softish, too. So they "settle" over time and loosen.

Here's a great guide for re-peening in case you haven't seen it: http://bjorn.foxtail.nu/bonk_eng.htm .

I liked mine. Worked great for me in Italian longsword. I think you would like it. :)

As I mentioned before, in other Topics about loose grips and fixing them, there is the period option of using small wood wedges to tighten the guard in combination of ( not historical adhesive ) a little epoxy.

A few of my Del Tin did loosen a bit but after this work done by me they are rock solid.

One I did a combination of a bit of peening and epoxy.

I like the look of the Del Tins in general that don't look machine made in having minor imperfections that match the period imperfections one sees in originals.

I also like the variety and reasonable price/quality of the Del Tins and Ryan does a great job of sharpening + he now offers a leather scabbard option at a reasonable price for a simple but functional scabbard. ( Essential if one has a Del Tin sharpened, with the original not sharpened edges one can dispense with a scabbard ).

I have loosen hilt of most of my Deltin pieces,included daggers.Only in one i never had ,and is a custom Katzbalger made by him.,
I only handle the weapons ,without cutting anything,and,i cannot fix them at home.To me,it is anyway unfortunate,that,i am havin this problem only with his pieces, i have quite a few weapons from similar level makers,and i never found this problem.
I talked with him about,cause, the last rapier i bought,it came already loose.
Andrea Scattolin

I have used the 5140 for sparring (I've blunted the edge so I can't say anything about how it cuts) for over a year now and I am very satisfied with it's performance. Besides the hilt coming loose once, it is a very sturdy yet fast sword that holds up to hard use.
My loose hilt was fixed by a few whacks to the peen with a large hammer so thats not a problem.