I just finished up a XVIII and I used as a study for a possible production run later on this summer. While this sword isn't designed after one specific find, I wanted to shoot for something that has the same visual feel and aesthetics. I think it turned out rather well.

Length overall: 35.7"
Blade length: 28.8"
Blade width at guard: 2.8"
Weight: 2lb. 8oz. (1.136Kg)
Point of balance: 2.7" Forward of guard

The blade is a little wider then what I think the documented originals that I've looked up, but overall I think it works and is true to the style of the originals. I had to regrind the blade to remove some more mass once I got the fitting done and seated, and the overall feel is really nice. The point stays right where you want it, there is ample stiffness in the blade to deliver a trust, while the edges are very capable, and sharp enough, to easily cut. I went a little crazy on the risers, but in the end they really help keep your hand exactly where you want it and minimize any slipping. I think the pommel came out a little thinner then I would have liked.... But I haven't seen enough angled shots of originals to really have a firm idea to base my assumption on. I think that forging the pommel like I understand originals were forged, making them more hollow on the inside would allow for a more massive look on the outside. However I still feel like it works, and the sword is properly balanced and alive in the hand which I think is the main idea :)

I am asking $1350 plus shipping for this sword

**If purchased prior to June 10th I am offering free shipping continental US plus 10% off for $1215 shipped to your door

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Splendid sword Michael!

I'm a great fan of castillon swords and you did a great job at capturing the style. That's a bunch of pictures I'm sure to come back here to check two dozen times in the weeks to come :). It looks to me more like a type XVIII (the tapering towards the point seems to retain a bit more width than on your typical type XV) but Oakeshott ranks castillon swords in both types anyway.

I don't see a problem with your thin pommel, different from what I have seen on historical examples but very elegant indeed. It seems you had to drastically flatten your grip below the pommel though, to get it to be thinner than the disc itself. There must not be much wood around the tang at that point but it looks damn good.

Cheers,

Julien

edit:

Michael Pikula wrote:

I went a little crazy on the risers

Nonsense! That grip looks perfect to me, very true to period and beautifully executed.

Really impressive work and sort of worth remembering for a later order ( Production run for late Summer ! Well, something to seriously think of saving some money for. ;) :D :cool: ).

The thin pommel is very interesting and as you mentioned we don't get to see profile pics of originals often enough to know how typically thick or thin those might be ?

Once you have decided on the diameter of pommel the thickness is where you can tweak the mass of the pommel.

Thanks Julien! Yes, I had to get the wood grip super thin, but I did a cord wrap over the wood to help keep everything together tight and secure:)

Hi Jean, Later on in the summer I am trying to coax another smith or two to join me for a two week frenzy of forging and grinding a batch of 15 or so swords based on the finds. They would all be a group effort, no sole authorship, and using some historically inspired tooling to help keep production time down. Still looking for some fellow craftsmen, and working on a cloning machine as a back up option;)

Truth be told I don't know what historical thicknesses would have been. The one example I've seen was much thicker, about twice as much at the middle section that has the most meat. But you are correct, I got a chunk of steel that was the diameter that I wanted, I made the slot and fitted it to the tang and then started removing material until it felt right. Most of the tweeking happened as I changed the radius of the wheel that I was grinding the rounded bevel on the pommel. I think I started at 4" and worked my way down to 1", and then reground the blade :)

Sweetness. You're really cranking out some beautiful work!

Wow! That is just gorgeous! I love the pommel. Just a great sword altogether! The crispness of the cross is really nice too. Really impressive work Michael!

Beautiful sword Michael - really captures the look of some of the Castillion swords. I agree with Julien though, it looks to be more of a Type XVIII than your typical XV.

Hope you can get the joint smithing project going, it sounds very interesting.

I have to add to this topic that your grip treatments on this and your recently completed Type XIIIb sword are really attractive and your prices are incredibly reasonable.

Keep up the good work.

I like the hilt very much - - the shape of the grip, and the best looking type J1 pommel that I've seen. Both this XV and the Lost XIIIb have a lot of Attitude.

Today at midnight the 10% discount and free shipping expire. Thanks again for all the comments!

I thought I'd give a bump for a really nice and unique sword. I'd love to see a video of this one cutting soft targets.

Well Michael had his Winter sale/auction and I couldn't resist this one. ;) :lol: So it's now officially mine and Michael will be again making a simple wood core/leather storage scabbard for me before shipping it.

When I bought Michael's type XIIIb Lost Oakeshoot I must admit it was touch and go for a few minutes before I decided which of these two swords to buy, and I'm glad that due to his auction/sale that brought the price closer to my price " comfort zone " I could also get this sword.

As to the discussion about it being either a type XVIII or type XV I think it all depends on the last few inches of blade curving into the point rather than if the basic triangular shape of the blade continuing on in forming a much more needle like point with a perfectly triangular sword profile.

I sort of see it as really a sword being a bit of both types but closer to a type XV in blade shape over most of it's length ..... except for the point.

I could be wrong but to me an ideal type XVIII should have gently curved edges over the entire length of the blade maybe accelerating in curvature to the point in the final 3" / 6".

All this nit picking aside this is really an appealing blade design to me aesthetically and functionally giving a somewhat broader cutting tip than the needle tip of a true type XV, not losing much in penetrative qualities of the needle type tip but a bit more effective in tip cuts and maybe less fragile assuming close to equal thickness at the point. ( Note the needle point might well be thicker and not any more fragile but this thickness would tend to stick/drag rather than cut in a tip cut I assume ).

Congratulations on picking up this very nice sword. :cool:

Congrats Jean! This sword is a beauty and I'm sure you'll love it. As you know, Michael's work is top notch. Enjoy it! Post your impressions of the sword "in hand" when you get it.

Beautiful sword! Very clean and rich.

Congratulations on getting that beautiful sword, Jean. I was very tempted to buy it myself.

My vote is for type XV.