Making a padded coif
Because I had some problems with the padded coif I bought from Matuls, I decided to make my own. It's pretty much the same construction as the one from Matuls but it is much thinner and it fits me much better.

I started off with a yard or so of cotton molleton, a thick, moisture absorbing fabric usually used as a cover over mattresses. I washed it hot and put it in the dryer to pre-shrink it and make it even thicker. I used three layers of molleton for the padding, traced the design on it, sew it down and cut it out. The design of the panels was traced from a simple cotton padded coif from someone in my WMA group that fit me very nicely.

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Then I created linen "sacks" or pouches to wrap around the padding. Those are simply two layers of natural linnen with the same design (slightly enlarged), sewn down on all sides except one and turned inside-out. Here are two of the linen pieces. I traced the padding onto two layers of linen and sewed about 1-1.5cm outside the tracing. I left one side open to put the padding in. One thing I did like about the Matuls design was that the straps were part of the linen that covers the sides. I did the same with my side panels.

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Next I turned the pieces inside out, ironed them flat and put the padding in. On the left is a piece after ironing. The piece on the right has the padding inserted. I propped it open with a roll of twine so you can see it.

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Then I sewed the vertical stitches to fix the padding in place (left), folded the opening shut and sewed all around the egde of the piece (right). The panels are done, ready to be attached to eachother.

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The three panels were then hand-sewn together to make up the coif. And here's a closeup of the coif turned inside-out so you can see the seam where the panels meet.

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As you can see, it fits me much better than my old coif.

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All in all, I think it turned out pretty well!


Last edited by Sander Marechal on Fri 25 Feb, 2011 6:54 am; edited 1 time in total
Nice job!

I've been wondering myself how to go about this, as I intend to wear a maille coif with cervalliare on top and then another less padded coif with that padded ring on top* of that, then change between great-helm and chapel-de-fer.

Well, I'd better get started then. :lol:


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*Like this.
Hi Sander,

looks great! You are good with the needle! I'll try something similar, but thought about using only two pieces of linnen, which are connected in the middle of the head, just like it's depicted in the Morgan-Bible. Did you experiment with this variant, too? I will try to make a normal coif first, then a second, slightly padded with wool for use under a maille-coif combined with a kettle hat. But first of all, I will make me some underwear. A Bruche. It's no good to have his head covered, but not the groin... :D

Regards,
Thomas
I have been needing to make this for quite some time, and this looks like the perfect tut. Thanks so much!
This is a nice try and I would like to see the missing part of the process.
As regards two or three panel coifs- as far as I know, three panelled coifs are later version. I will soon make a two panel version for myself- if interested I can post pictures (I think in a two weeks...)
Thomas R. wrote:
It's no good to have his head covered, but not the groin... :D


That's what you have knee length tunics for! ;)

My coif is made of two pieces rather than three, but the overall look is the same

(BTW, did you 13th c. guys see the 1st person video from our latest training weekend: There is some neat footage there; http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=22323 )


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Elling Polden wrote:
Thomas R. wrote:
It's no good to have his head covered, but not the groin... :D


That's what you have knee length tunics for! ;)

My coif is made of two pieces rather than three, but the overall look is the same

(BTW, did you 13th c. guys see the 1st person video from our latest training weekend: There is some neat footage there; http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=22323 )


Haha, Elling - there can't be a 13.-century-thread without you!
You don't happen to have a pattern for your fine coif? I fear my try on that will look like a dwarfs hat from diznee's snow white...

So... now I have to watch your footage! :D

Best regards,
Thomas
Thomas R. wrote:
I thought about using only two pieces of linnen, which are connected in the middle of the head, just like it's depicted in the Morgan-Bible. Did you experiment with this variant, too?


I made two 2-piece unpadded coifs. I had some trouble getting the curvature right. But I did design those from scratch instead of copying piece that fit, like I did for this padded coif.

Quote:
But first of all, I will make me some underwear. A Bruche. It's no good to have his head covered, but not the groin... :D


Been there, done that :) I made mine based off Bumply's Braies. The design works quite well, but be sure to check the height of the fabric (measurement DG in the schematic). That's the height that runs from your belt/cord, between your legs and up the back again to the belt/cord. Mine are a bit tight there. It fits, but someday I plan to remake them a tad bigger so they fit more comfortably.
[quote="Sander Marechal"]
Thomas R. wrote:

Been there, done that :) I made mine based off Bumply's Braies. The design works quite well, but be sure to check the height of the fabric (measurement DG in the schematic). That's the height that runs from your belt/cord, between your legs and up the back again to the belt/cord. Mine are a bit tight there. It fits, but someday I plan to remake them a tad bigger so they fit more comfortably.


Mine, on the other hand, go all the way down to the ankle when untied. This is admitedly a bit long. However, it leaves for a roomy groin piece, avoiding your problem. In fact, they are so comfy I have never gotten around to replacing them, making it the oldest piece of kit I still regularly use.
My H-G measure is also open all the way up, which is real handy when certain bodily functions need to be carried out.
That long? I'll keep that in mind when I remake mine. Thanks!
Mine are a bit TOO long, which is why I am considering making new ones. But they should go below the knee when hanging loose. You wrap them around the leg just above the knee, and tie them up.
I finished the second coif last Wednesday and I remembered to take pictures. I have updated the first post in this thread to include pictured of the missing steps. I hope it's of some use!

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