My Claymore arrived today. It appears to be a real beauty. I strapped the scabbard in a wide baldric, where it hangs nicely. When wearing it the pommel is more like 10" above my waistline rather than the 4" the placard that came with the sword suggests, but being a two handed sword I'm thinking the pommel will position higher with the scabbard riding on (or a little above) the hip. I've got the scabbard positioned with 5 or 6 inches protruding from the baldric.
I'm new at this, the Claymore is my first sword. Anyone else one here have one? I'm interested in any opinions or comments regarding the sword, method of wearing, etc...
I also ordered the sword sharpened. While the blade arrived less than the stated 1.88mm thickness at the edge, I would definitely not call it sharp. I keep pocket knives sharp, sharp enough to shave with. I'm certain that would be a little too sharp for a sword, but how sharp should a functional sword be? I'm not planning to cut anyone in half, but I want a sharp sword.
Any opinions?

Wear it how it is comfortable for you. You will be unshouldering the whole set up to draw the sword anyways so whatever is comfortable is the right way.

How sharp a sword should be is pretty debated and quite frankly mostly a function of what you plan to do with the sword. I personally leave the sword just sharp enough to be uncomfortable if I was to half sword the edge...but not enough to cut me. By all reports and pictures I have seen, DSA sharpening service seems pretty useless. It does however save you some time if you plan on redoing the edge by hand I suppose.

Actually the sword draws easily from the worn position. It sheaths easily as well, but with the right hand reversed on the hilt (heel towards the guard) due to blade length. It can be sheathed with the hand heel toward the pommel as drawn, but that is slightly awkward getting the tip started into the scabbard.
I think the edge needs work. It should be at least as sharp as a wood splitting axe, I have two of those and they are both sharper at the moment.

Just be sure not to underestimate the cutting power that even a relatively dull edge can have when it strikes with intent. I prefer to keep a 'safe' edge (IE, some muscle/pressure is required to cut) to remove some of the risks involved in handling my pieces, although they certainly could pull their weight in a live situation, if it ever comes up. :p

Most of my swords are sharp enough that if you firmly press your thumb against the edge, nothing will happen, but if you start to move it down the blade you'll be cut quite deep and suddenly.

I guess you could call it a 'rule of thumb'... Sorry.

I'm not very familiar with Darksword Armory, but assuming its a good sword, you'll be amazed at how effortlessly you can slice though things with just the inherent shape of the blade and a durable/conservative edge (as Emil said). An extra-sharp edge just adds a subtle sweetness and follow-through.

I bought mine a year ago to use as a project sword. I turned it into my personal Albion Chieftan on a 'budget', hehe. I completely reprofiled the blade, sharpened it, redid the grip, and modified the pommel. Aside from the grip which was my first re-wrap ever, it turned out great in my opinion.



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Nathan are you talking about the stepped sides of the pommel? I hated those! It looks sooooooooooo much better now with a straight styled peen block! Even If I could magically undue all that metal shaving I'd never want to go back to the way the pommel originally was. I like it more the way it is now.

Just occured to me you could also be referring to the guard. This version I bought was the original version as sold only through ebay which didn't have the newer style guard. It was missing the middle piece. The guard was revised in the sword's second run.

I'm beginning to see some value in redoing the grip. After only a little light handling the leather on the Claymore's grip is beginning. to peel up at the edge. which runs from the guard to the pommel along one side. It presses back into place easily, but then begins to peel again just as easily. It looks like the right glue along that edge would fix it right up. Any ideas?

Hi Steven nice work on the pommel nut I agree the stepped pommel nut it comes with looks bad and you did a great job and made it look a lot better.Nathan this sword does come with Langets Steven much have cut then off .

James I thank you for your kind words but I can assure you that the first run of DSA Claymores did not have Langets. They were never listed for sale that way on their website. The original run of Claymores were sold strictly through DSA's ebay store. I bought mine from a forum member at SBG because he was able to get me the upgraded scabbard. When DSA decided to officially release their Claymore and put it on the site, they added the Langets for the second run. Not many people know about the one without langets since they never listed them on their site that way. I can assure that the cross guard is unaltered as it came from the forge. Oh Greg the top leather isn't glued on well. The cord underneath though should be solid. I have bought three DSA's with the new leather over cord hilts and they all started to peel. It is worth wrapping it but you shouldn't have to redo the cord underneath.

I'll try a little wood glue along the seam, not enough to make a hard spot but enough to hold the leather. If that doesn't do it I'll get something to wrap it with. Other than that to this point I'm quite satisfied with it, I'll have to admit when I first looked at your picture the lack of langets was the main thing I noticed. The modified pommel escaped me.... at least at first