Greetings to the forum,

I have noticed certain manufacturers of replica edged weapons ship their goods sharpened, and others not. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to having the blade arrive sharp or blunt, besides the obvious points regarding safety, use as tools for reenactment vice showpieces, and so forth? Is it perhaps mere company policy?
Does anyone consider it necessary to sharpen the blade to make it more historically accurate??
Thanks for any input.

Tormod

Well, I'm not always sure about why some companies do or don't sharpen their wares, really. I know that some countries have laws against importing or exporting sharpened goods, so in some case that may very well be behind it. As you've guessed, some manufacturers aim their stuff more at reenactors and those ofcourse definitely don't need to be sharpened. I think Del Tin 'walks the line' between a reenactment blade and one that can be sharpened reasonably easily if it is needed or wished.

Personally, I tend to like my 'live' steel to be live, so I'll sharpen it if it isn't. However, training tools of the sparring variety don't need that so I expect there are reasons to choose to keep a sword sharp or blunted....

Tusen takk, Einar. :D

I only have blunt blades myself, although the point is still quite, well...pointy. I guess eventually I'll get to sharpening them. What kind of recommendations would you have for sharpening a cut-and-thrust? Should I get it done professionally, if there are places where you can get such sharpening done (I don't possess a grindstone)?

Tormod

Tormod;

Unless I have a specific reason for wanting it blunt, I like a real sword to have a real edge appropriate to the design.

To me it's like owning a gun and having no bullets or a car but having no access to gas or a computer and buying no software.

And welcome to the forum.

Depends on the files used I guess... I've used files to sharpen Del Tins and Atrims with reasonably good success. It does take a while but not prohibitively so...

A good quality file can be used with good results. It will take a while to accomplish. Follow the filing with a dressing using a good quality sharpening stone. That should give you a decent basic edge.

Avoid power tools, regardless of your experience with them. The heat that's generated might possibly ruin the blade's heat treatment, and one slip can ruin your blade. There's no substitute for patience.

I'll second that! Once the metal is ground off you can't get it back...

A fine grit diamond stone and a few quiet evenings can put a very nice edge on even a well-hardened blade. Of course, begin with a coarser stone if there's no edge at all to start. I finish the edge with 1500 grit automotive sandpaper. Work on just a few inches at a time, and be prepared to spend some time doing it. A lot of time. As you get closer to the final degree of sharpness desired, you need to really focus on the process, both to keep from ruining the edge and to keep from cutting yourself. I'm in the middle of putting a better edge on a Lutel 15010 right now.

I really respect you guys willingness to "jump in there" in regards to getting intimate with establishing or maintaining a proper edge.
For me, owning higher quality production blades-Ill just pay the money and have the manufactures do it right. I mean there is more to an edge than its' sharpness- there is the continuity of the edge section and the need for a homogenous edge along the swords length. Thats a lot to take into account.
Now with an axe that all goes out the window and I have a great time working on the edge of my A&A Danish- a secondary bevel is just fine and for some reason I am more comfortable with a less prestine product on an axe.
Jeremy

I'd second getting it done professionally.

Also, I believe Gus will ship you blunt blades if you request it, so you can have it arrive blunt and get used to it, then sharpen it later.