Hi everyone,

I am in the process of antiquing a 12th C. Del Tin with a salt and vinegar solution. It seems as though the blade is taking on more corrosion than the hilt components.

Now, many period pieces would have had an iron hilt with a higher carbon or steel blade. Wouldn't iron or a lower carbon steel corrode faster generally than the higher carbon material utilized in the blade, or am I mistaken?

If this is so I will just antique the blade until I am comfortable and then pay extra attention to the guard and pommel- while covering the blade. I guess I could be over-simplifying things as I am want to do. . . .

What say you?

Del Tins all used to come with a clear coat of lacquer/varnish. I think they still do. Has yours been stripped? Maybe the difference is in how the solution is eating through the varnish, if it's still there. If it's removed or had none, then I have no clue. :)

Use engine degreaser on all steel before rusting it, as you would with a cold blue.

All else being equal a higher carbon steel will corrode faster than low-carbon. All else is rarely equal, however, when discussing modern steel alloys. How a steel is heat treated can affect how it etches and corrodes so there is a lot of potential for different results when doing a project like this.
DT's hilt components are often acid-washed to give a dull grey appearance. If you do not polish it down to bare steel first your etch may have to eat through this layer of oxidation and/or any remaining varnish before you get the results you want. The existing oxidation layer (if there is one) can change colors somewhat as it is affected by your etch, so it is best to start with freshly-polished/sanded parts. If one part is stubborn to take the etch you can try heating the part. Generally you do not want it hot enough to boil the etch solution when it is applied, anywhere from 150-190 F. is usually effective. Polishing back with fine steel wool after etching is another way to help even out the results.