Inlay Material on Viking Hilt
I would like to add some inlay work to a Viking sword hilt. I really do not like the look of the "red/yellow" metals in these inlays, so I wanted to stay away from copper, bronze, etc... Ideally I would like to have a lined pattern of alternating iron/silver. Silver is quite pricey and I was wondering if tin would be a historically plausible substitute? That would give me that nice "white" metal look to contrast the "black" metal look of the iron. Appreciate any help here. Also, if anyone has any historic examples that use tin for an inlay material I would like to see them.

Thanks,
-Aaron
I remember that traces of tin were found as inlays on the hilts of some Viking age swords. I don't know if they used something like a leaded pewter but I thiink that I'd avoid that alloy because of the lead toxisity.
I don't know what the current silver price is, but last time I bought some silver wire, I was pleasantly surprised. Maybe it's worth a second look?
I picked up 2 feet or 18guage half hard sterling silver square wire for $8, I think that is very reasonable.
I would go for the silver as it isn't that expensive, compared with how much time and effort you will be putting in to the inlay work you might as well use the best.

That said, you could also use some of the non toxic silver solder used in copper pipe pluming.

Good luck with your project.
inlay material
Aaron:

Just one supplier here. Have used them before, very speedy delivery. That is a good suggestion too about silver solder. In a pinch, hate to say it but have used it too!

http://ccsilver.com/silver/swire/round.html#round


Thanks.
I get my silver from Otto Frei They have good customer service.
You might also try Ivory. Thin pieces of ivory are easy to work with and can be picked up on Ebay. While new ivory is banned, these pieces generally come from old piano (key laminates) and are perfect for small inlay projects.
Even pertrified mammoth tusk can be picked up for very reasonable prices if you only want a small sliver/splinters for inlaying.
Peter Remling wrote:
You might also try Ivory. Thin pieces of ivory are easy to work with and can be picked up on Ebay. While new ivory is banned, these pieces generally come from old piano (key laminates) and are perfect for small inlay projects.
Even pertrified mammoth tusk can be picked up for very reasonable prices if you only want a small sliver/splinters for inlaying.


How do you inlay bone/ivory into a guard? Or did I miss something?
Ben Potter wrote:
Peter Remling wrote:
You might also try Ivory. Thin pieces of ivory are easy to work with and can be picked up on Ebay. While new ivory is banned, these pieces generally come from old piano (key laminates) and are perfect for small inlay projects.
Even pertrified mammoth tusk can be picked up for very reasonable prices if you only want a small sliver/splinters for inlaying.


How do you inlay bone/ivory into a guard? Or did I miss something?


Ben, not really sure of your question. Are you asking how to inlay something or if there are any references to inlaying in guards?

If we are talking how to, it;s the same as you would if inlaying bone or ivory into wood. Cut out the desired shape then carve or scribe out the same shape into the guard, glue/epoxy the piece into it's setting and file sand the surface to match the surrounding. If you are talking about having an overhanging lip to retain the piece like you could with a soft metal or liquid that's going to harden then no, it would just have the adhesive unless you were making a layered (sandwiched) guard,.

If it was referenced pieces I can add some at a later time.
Thanks for the input. I think i'll spring for the silver to do the final project. In the mean time, I have a bunch of tin wire that I got for free that I am going to practice with so I don't waste any of the silver. Another question, what is the best way to get a good undercut in steel for the inlay? I am able to get a clean square groove cut in, but I am having trouble getting a good undercut to hold the wire.
Quote:

If we are talking how to, it;s the same as you would if inlaying bone or ivory into wood. Cut out the desired shape then carve or scribe out the same shape into the guard, glue/epoxy the piece into it's setting and file sand the surface to match the surrounding. If you are talking about having an overhanging lip to retain the piece like you could with a soft metal or liquid that's going to harden then no, it would just have the adhesive unless you were making a layered (sandwiched) guard,.

If it was referenced pieces I can add some at a later time.


Thanks, I had never thought of inlaying bone into metals. Do you know of any historical examples of this?[/quote]
There are several text references but I'm having difficulty finding pics of historic pieces. We do know they used narwhale horns and walrus tusk for cups and inlaying in other metal goods (plates, platters and goblets) and that they did use other metals and stones to inlay in guards and pommels so it doesn't take much to believe they would also use walrus tusk or even elephant tusk, if they traded for it.

Here's a piece of modern eye candy

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/remli...yinlay.jpg
The Walros tusks mostly came from greenland, and so would appear in the late viking age/ early medevial period.
Most innlays that I've heard of where silver, or failing that, bronze. Remember that in this period, cost was a pluss. Tin or lead innlays on a sword would be a bit like a gangsta with bling made out of plastic.

I know there are lead jewlery and beltmounts from the medevial period, but I can't recall seeing tin or pewter.
Aaron Schneiker wrote:
Thanks for the input. I think i'll spring for the silver to do the final project. In the mean time, I have a bunch of tin wire that I got for free that I am going to practice with so I don't waste any of the silver. Another question, what is the best way to get a good undercut in steel for the inlay? I am able to get a clean square groove cut in, but I am having trouble getting a good undercut to hold the wire.


A V-graver or knife graver is the best thing I've found.

this might help some:

Norse inlay tutorial

Let me know if you have any questions.

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