I'm ready to proceed with a new project based on the Windlass "Saxon hilt sword". By "based" I mean I'll keep the pommel and blade. These, plus a new, slightly recurved cross, will form a bastard sword inspired by the painting below (ca. 1490). In the painting, notice the blade of single-hand length paired with a long grip with "D" shaped chappe, recurved cross and faceted or fluted globular pommel. I won't go so far as to flute my pommel. Experiments with clay grip and cross suggest a balance point approximately 2.50 below the cross, which seems reasonable for a thrust-oriented blade. My photo mashup (see below) is only eyeballed, so final proportions will vary somewhat, but I think this is roughly what I'd end up with. Looking at the image of the saxon hilt sword you can see what I'm planning to do--everything between pommel and lower gaurd will become the hand-and-a-half grip.

Do any of you know of surviving weapons of these proportions? Any late 15th c. bastard swords with Type R pommels? Do you find the proportions of my design reasonable/attractive (sorry I don't have a full-length view)? What would you change?

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I have to say Sean, you ever cease to amaze me with your projects. While I can't speculate on surviving pieces, I think that as far as aesthetics go it's quite attractive. I think it will be a very interesting weapon when finished. Are you making the cross or do you have one that you'll be refitting to the blade?

Thanks! I just bought an old straight Angus Trim cross that appears to be of adaptable length and section. My plan is to file some facets, round the edges a bit and recurve horizontally. The recurving could be a dodgy proposition, and I won't recurve as much as the cross in the painting. I'll apply as much heat as possible with my propane torch and work slowly, probably using hammer and anvil. I'm guessing that the tang hole will be very slightly oversize, which I can fix with shims. This Windlass blade is surprisingly thick (and stiff!) so the fit might turn out to be better than I expect.

The blade of the finished piece will be ~33". Overall, with a new nut/peen block, the sword will be ~41".

are you planning to blue the furniture?

This sword's pommel appears to be identical to the one in the painting, and is a perfect chronological match:

http://www.myArmoury.com/view.html?features/p...xxii06.jpg

That's far beyond my skill, so I'll have to be content with the simple facets. :D

Since you asked, the only thing I'd change would be the rain guard. I've never found rain guards on the hilt to be attractive at all...rather, it's like dressing a pretty girl in a pretty outfit and then giving her a crappy hat. Your mileage may vary.

HOWEVER. I think you should go with this project and photolog it for the rest of us nerds to drool over ;)

As for the pommel, the original is a screw-on, correct?

M.

Wow, going off the artistic source material, that really is a bastard('s) sword...
looks like a cool project though, I have enjoyed watching your other ones unfold.

Great project, Sean, can't wait to see more - post as many "in progress" shots as you have the convenience to, if you would! Some of us live vicariously through threads like this one.
For my part, I'd go with the chappe. It's right for the period & region. I think maybe the one in your photoshopped image might be a bit undersized - enlarge it maybe 15 %? Sometimes the hat just needs to be as well proportioned as the lady sporting it... perhaps a wrap-around type, for such a slim figure?
I've actually been dreaming about the Windlass English Cut and Thrust, thinking that triple-fullered blade might make for a sweet, under-scaled type XX warsword for whichever of my wee bairns shows interest and a cool-enough head. Gotta get Papa a proper sword first, 'tho...
Cheers,
Eric

Great project Sean.

Keep the rain guard, by all means. It makes a lot of the character of the sword. Perhaps a tubular one could be an alternative, but these oval/tounge shaped ones are nice also because they are perhaps a bit more rare.

The painting seems to suggest longitudinal fluting of the pommel, making it look like a peeled orange or garlic. Perhaps that is something you could add to the pommel you have. It is a few hours of file work, but it also makes for a great change in character. (also making the pommel a bit lighter. Sometimes a good thing, sometimes not so good. You´ll have to find that out when the sword is ready for try fitting.

You´ll have fun with this one!

Can´t wait to see the result :-)

sorry if im a little late on this one but here is my opinion : if a rainguard looks ugly just change the color (personnally i like brown on swords) and try put a pattern on it (it sur wouldn't look historical but would be attractive :D ) but again it's my opinion.

Some possibilities/inspiration:

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If you make the D-shaped rain guard of leather with an untanned core, it will be hard as board when it is dry.
This kind of leather is traditional for sheaths of puukos and other scandinavian knives. I have a suspicion it was used widely whenever stiffness and decoration demanded plastic sculpting and form setting in case making, scabbard and grip making. Such leather takes well to sculpting, punching and molding. Mind you: it shrinks more during drying, than through treated leather does.
Problem today is finding stuff that is thin enough for all applications. It is normally found in 2-3 mm thickness.
For grips and finer work 1.5 mm thickness would be great.
I think it can be found as Orthopedic Leather.

Even normal vegetable tanned leather will get a bit harder just by being thoroughly wet, molded and then let dry. You could paint the inside of the flaps with some stiffening agent, like shellack also.
When you shape the rain guard, make a template of the scabbard in wood, that slips on to the upper part of the blade and only reaches a little bit further than the length of the grain guard. That way you can make a very nice fit between scabbard and rain guard. You can then work the leather while whet and properly mold it to the outer shape of the scabbard.
It probably means you have to complete the scabbard first to get those measurements...