Well just a quick question,
After having a search for ways to get galvinisation off my cheap (but riveted :D ) repo-maile, there didn't seem to be one certain way or indeed a safer way other than using acid and risking poisining.
So I was wondering, how would you fine people go about doing it, and indeed if you have done it, then how?
And if all else fails, let this be a maile armour thread!
Oh, and here's the offending kit/maille.

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I was part of a protest. Can you guess what for? :D

Try abrasives, do you know of anyone who has either a sandblaster, large tumbler, or tub vibe? the galvanizing should rub off in a few hours in any of those. In a "poor man's" solution to a tub vibe, is a box of sand in your trunk, and a lot of bumpy roads. A friend of mine cleaned a shirt of mail in about one month that way.

Another possibility would be to find a place around you that does galvanizing, the two galvanizers I use for large outdoor projects have the equipment and acids to strip the galvanizing if they need to. You might be able to talk one of them into cleaning your shirt for a few bucks, or beers.

Ken Nelson
Iron Wolf Forge

Get one of those plastic tubs, fill it with vinegar (outside), chuck in maille.

Wake up the next day and dry it out. When dry, toss it in a bag with sand, and knock the rust off.

M.

Are you sure you want the galvanization off? You will obtain a more historical correct armor, with all the rust necessary...

You better have near a cask with a lot of fine sand to keep her rust-free: just put her (the chain mail) in it and do some kolm with it... on foot, naturally.

Hey, thanks for the replies and tips guys.
I'm aware that the moment I take off the galv it'll be more work to maintain, but hey, this hobbie isn't meant to be easy :)
I recently bought a nasal helmet, basicaly I was somewhat inspire by The New Varangian Guard and this chap.
So thanks again for the help. :D

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Inspiring!

I've read much about painted and "blackened" mail (One in the same?)

Maybe you could follow Mick Jagger's advice, and "Paint it black" :D

I never understand why anyone would want to get rid of galvanisation. Removing it doesn't make it any more historically accurate and you have a hell of a time keeping it clean.

On the zinc removal, I made a coat of plates last year, and had to decide between finishing the project using galvanised flathead nails as rivits, or not finishing it. I was happy with the overall effect, but a bit sheepish about the galvanised nails.
A fellow re-enacter got some flathead rivets, and as a project decided to tin them, which he said was period , and I am not enough of an expert to have any idea. weeks of setting up, hours of grinding and sanding, more of tinning the little buggers, and low and behold, he had a rivit that was indestinguishable from...drumroll... my galvanised nails.
The only way we could tell the diference was by taste, the tinned ones made my fillings feel weird. I figure as long as no-one licks my armour I should be able to get away with it (if they do, I will just counter that their fillings arent perid either :p )

Evidence of galvanisation has been found on Indian mail so there is at least some precedence for its historical use as a rust inhibitor.

Ask yourself why you want to rmove the zinc. If you want to make it more historically accurate then you are wasting your time. If you want the superficial appearance of historical mail then there are a few ways to darken the zinc while keeping its rust inhibiting properties. Why make needless work for yourself?

The stainless steel sword analogy is flawed. It isn't much use for reenactors. Galvanised mild steel mail has many practical uses for reenactment. Better to compare a sword made using modern steel and a power hammer and one made using traditional materials and tools.

Zinc isn't considered particularly toxic. It is one of the metals that the body needs in small amounts. Fumes from welding or attempts to remove the zinc are completely different and can be toxic - expecailly since galvanising rarely involves ONLY zinc. Other trace metals such as lead and chrome can cause additional problems. Birds can suffer from zinc toxicity from too much contact with galvanised iron but not humans.

Just throwing my two penneth in on the pro's and cons based on my personal experience (having owned and fought in both galvanised and ungalvanised for a number of years)..

Probably worth mentioning that some of the pro's/cons are related more to butted/rivited - but it is relevent as most galv mail you can get in the UK is also butted... most rivited is not galvanised..

My first set - Galvanised butted... Made by myself almost 20 years ago
Started as a haubergeon which I gradually added to to make it a full-sleeved hauberk with integral mufflers and mail chausses (fitted sabatons included).

Pros:
Survived many camping weekends in the English summer without rusting..
Survived many sweaty combat events and rainy events without rusting
Did not have to worry about it getting wet/damp or keeping it oiled.
Easily modified/fitted (due to butted more than anything)

Cons:
Needed constant repair work (again due to being butted rather than galv)
Didn't look right - either too shiny at first, and a manky dull grey when older
My current groups don't accept Galv - on authenticity grounds.
Heavy (again not galv-related, but the shape of links and lack of riviting)

My current set - Cap-a-Pie mixed solid/rivited flat-section rings - round rivits - Had for 2 years

Pros:
Looks fantastic from a distance (or even quite close up when wearing it) - which makes me feel good :).
Accepted by UK LK groups
Feel happier to show to the public close-up (described as a reasonably accurate re-creation apart from ring thickness)
Half the weight of my butted suit (again not galv-related).. Doesn't sound much but it really makes events a lot more fun as I get less tired, and am more likely to win combats

Cons:
Rust-prone.. from damp, rain, or sweat. (but I've had no rust yet due to careful maintenence)
Needs regular spraying with silicon or ptfe-based lubricants to provide rust-protection.
Lubricants rub-off dirtying/damaging undergarments - so need to be careful about what is worn with it. (now have one aketon for may mail only - and one to be worn alone).
Need to ensure padded undergarments don't allow the mail to touch the skin anywhere (mainy around the neck/face) to keep sweat away from it.
Need seperate set of 'low-station' kit for combat in heavy rain.. I simply won't wear it if I know it will get soaked - especial at an event when camping and so having limited capabilities to dry it out.
Makes me a lot more concious of the weather..
Had to create period stuff for storage.. Made a very strong linen sack (double-layered) - sprayed the outside with fabric waterproofing and let the oil from the mail coat the inside. Now also have an oak box to put it in. (But it all adds to the LH)
More Expensive

I'm not gonna tell anyone which set to go for - just to make their own conclusions based on what they want from it and an understanding of what difference it will make.