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Re: pictures of blank after first stock removal
Jared Smith wrote:


This is very thick. Look at one of your kitchen chef's knifes to get an idea of how thick a big knife for hard duty would normaly be. Depending upon your final decision on thickness, the taper for the edge is something of a science in itself. I like angles around 10 degrees as a compromise for toughness verses sharpness.

There is a fair guideline regarding thickness, angle, and relative toughness versus sharpness here. http://www.navaching.com/forge/design.html


Thanks. I thought it might be too big. Well, this is a learning process. Progress not perfection.
If you're looking for a good, inexpensive book to get started with knifemaking I would consider Tim McCreight's book "Custom Knifemaking".


http://www.myArmoury.com/books/item.php?ASIN=0811721752
And here is another book that I have found helpful. It gives you some ideas for setting up a shop using fairly common and relatively inexpensive tools.

http://www.myArmoury.com/books/item.php?ASIN=0896892956
I have found this book to be a lot of help on my first attempts at knifemaking:
http://www.myArmoury.com/books/item.php?ASIN=0873644301

as it has most of the basic info one might need - on metals, on temperatures even on making forge suited for the needs.
I've changed all the book links in this topic to link to Our Bookstore. Note that some of these books have reviews from myArmoury.com members as well as regular Amazon.com members. If any of you members purchase a book from Amazon via our bookstore, a small percentage of your money is earned by myArmoury.com.
Thanks, Nathan. Oversight on my part. The reviews have been instrumental on my book buying decisions in many cases.
ciao,
Knowing the steel is a good thing. Ask a lot of work and ruin everything for a hardening wrong is a serious injury. A tip, if you have to temper you, immerse in oil the knife vertically, this will avoid deformations. Making a straight knife after hardening is never a good idea. Crack. :confused:
Good job
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