Has anyone dry-handled or cut with a Windlass / MRL Great Ouse River Sword? Comments on any of the following would be greatly appreciated:
- handling
- suitability for light-to-medium cutting exercises (up to, say, single or double roll tatami, or tatami with dowel core)
- durability
- suitability for use in German longsword techniques
- historical accuracy
Thanks very much,
Craig
[ Linked Image ]
I'm also interested in this sword. I love such simple end elegant longswords, especially type XVII. This one should be XVII, right?
Luka Borscak wrote: |
I'm also interested in this sword. I love such simple end elegant longswords, especially type XVII. This one should be XVII, right? |
It doesn't look like it has the hexagonal cross-section of a Type XVII. Looks like a diamond to me. Hard to tell, though.
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It does look like MRL's standard diamond section with a fuller ground in. Not a bad looking sword, but missing a little something because of the blade
Ah, shame. The original is really nice XVII and this would be the first XVII sword in this price range I know of.
This might make a nice "DIY" project - a bit of time, patience, files and sandpaper could create the proper hexagonal cross section! (A good candidate for a grip/hilt redo as well?) ;)
It's a Windlass, the blade is too thin to file it down even more. I think. :)
Hello all,
I, too, am curious about this one... I just wish Windlass would use a little more discretion when slapping typology labels on their products. They got the profile right, it seems, but I'll agree, that's not a type XVII cross section. I would be cautious about re-shaping the cross section on this one, 'tho, because Windlass seems to usually start with 3/16" stock - which means, when they mill that fuller into a diamond cross section, the blade is already marginally less than 3/16". Any attempt at grinding this one into a hex might leave you with a very floppy blade, right at the area where need it least. Maybe better to just consider it a fullered XVA, or a slim XVI. Reshape that grip core a bit and you're ready for the late 14th century!
By the way, foranyone who hasn't found them, have a look at this website:
http://www.superiorswords.co.nz/webapps/site/...upid=14507
Their photography of certain Windlass products puts most other sites to shame. The sword in question isn't listed yet, but give them time. Gives one a better idea of the potential of a given item, 'tho... Windlass appears to be peening a lot of tangs lately.
I, too, am curious about this one... I just wish Windlass would use a little more discretion when slapping typology labels on their products. They got the profile right, it seems, but I'll agree, that's not a type XVII cross section. I would be cautious about re-shaping the cross section on this one, 'tho, because Windlass seems to usually start with 3/16" stock - which means, when they mill that fuller into a diamond cross section, the blade is already marginally less than 3/16". Any attempt at grinding this one into a hex might leave you with a very floppy blade, right at the area where need it least. Maybe better to just consider it a fullered XVA, or a slim XVI. Reshape that grip core a bit and you're ready for the late 14th century!
By the way, foranyone who hasn't found them, have a look at this website:
http://www.superiorswords.co.nz/webapps/site/...upid=14507
Their photography of certain Windlass products puts most other sites to shame. The sword in question isn't listed yet, but give them time. Gives one a better idea of the potential of a given item, 'tho... Windlass appears to be peening a lot of tangs lately.
Wow, Eric. Thanks for mentioning that site. I find that the photography of a lot of Windlass swords leaves one with a lot of questions about some of their more subtle details. This site really gives you a good look at the sword before you buy.
In response to this particular sword, it caught my eye immediately when I first saw it in the MRL catalog. The cross is a bit blocky and boring for my taste, but true to the original. Something would have to be done about that grip though, IMHO. If they don't discontinue this one within the next ten minutes like they seem seem to enjoy doing, I think it would be a great project piece. With a little work it could be turned into something very special.
-JM
In response to this particular sword, it caught my eye immediately when I first saw it in the MRL catalog. The cross is a bit blocky and boring for my taste, but true to the original. Something would have to be done about that grip though, IMHO. If they don't discontinue this one within the next ten minutes like they seem seem to enjoy doing, I think it would be a great project piece. With a little work it could be turned into something very special.
-JM
Craig L. wrote: |
- suitability for use in German longsword techniques
|
I haven't handled the sword in question. But if its large enough for two hands but possible to use with one if necessary, then its suitable for German longsword techniques. :)
Eric W. Norenberg wrote: |
Hello all,
By the way, foranyone who hasn't found them, have a look at this website: http://www.superiorswords.co.nz/webapps/site/...upid=14507 Their photography of certain Windlass products puts most other sites to shame. The sword in question isn't listed yet, but give them time. Gives one a better idea of the potential of a given item, 'tho... Windlass appears to be peening a lot of tangs lately. |
Another site I've found to be very helpful, photo-wise, is http://www.schwertshop.de. It's probably easiest to start navigating from here, because the site is in German. The photos are excellent, however, and really help in the decision-making stage.
Hope this helps,
Craig
Bill Grandy wrote: |
if its large enough for two hands but possible to use with one if necessary, then its suitable for German longsword techniques. :) |
Ahhh... a rule of thumb that is beautiful in its simplicity!
Last edited by Craig L. on Tue 10 Feb, 2009 9:47 pm; edited 1 time in total
Jeez, I wish I lived just up the street from KoA... I really want to put this sword through its paces! Closest Windlass retailer is over 8 hours away, though... :(
Has anyone figured out how to convince their wife to move "just 'cause?" ;)
Has anyone figured out how to convince their wife to move "just 'cause?" ;)
I'm a total newbie, so I just have to ask... would a guard of this size get in the way during any German longsword techniques, e.g. maybe Ochs, or some of the winding techniques?
Craig L. wrote: | ||
Ahhh... a rule of thumb that is beautiful in its simplicity! |
Well, the origional "Rule of thumb" was pretty ssimple too... not sure if that one would be considered "beautiful" though :\
Nat Lamb wrote: |
Well, the origional "Rule of thumb" was pretty ssimple too... not sure if that one would be considered "beautiful" though :\ |
Yeah... pretty hard to believe, coming from a 21st-C perspective.
Craig L. wrote: | ||
Yeah... pretty hard to believe, coming from a 21st-C perspective. |
Because it's a myth.
http://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/rule-of-thumb.html
M.
M. Eversberg II wrote: | ||||
Because it's a myth. http://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/rule-of-thumb.html M. |
Oh, cool. Thanks for the link, it's alays nice to improve one's knowledge :D
Nat Lamb wrote: | ||||||
Oh, cool. Thanks for the link, it's alays nice to improve one's knowledge :D |
It's why most of us are here :p
M.
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