Plate Armor care ideas needed
Hello I need some ideas on how to care for my newly purchased suit of plate.

I would like products used and techniques. Other than the standard grease or oil. I have painted the inside with 3 coats of Black ANTI rust paint. I am maintaining the light suface rust with a simple rubbing compound for the moment.

I plan to use a large quantity of Metal glo on it in the future to even up the suface and give it a little more shine. After that is done I need to know whats the BEST way to care for all my efforts. It does not need to be the easiest way just a good one that produces a long lasting upkeep.

I thank anyone who suggests anything up front, youhelp is much appreciated.


Tim
I fight in spring steel; after use get any sweat on the armor off of it. Store it dry in wool bags and inside a plastic container if you are outside (like Pennsic). If I get a spot of rust I use a product similar to brasso made for steel I picked up in a knife store.
Fluid Film is the best corrosion inhibitor I have found, and I have tried many, many things. It's formulated for use on offshore oil rigs. You can find it online, and they have a list of distributors. John Deere usually carries it.
I've heard of people using car wax.
I use metal glo for the tough spots, but for general maintenance I use chrome polish and a light gun oil.
When I was stationed in Korea I had rust problems, especially during the monsoon season.

The Higher the polish on your armour, ie the shinier it is with out anything on it the less it will rust, less surface area and less 'nooks and crannies' for water and other corrosives to grab hold of. That is, if you can work your armour until it it mirror bright it will be easier to keep it that way.

after that there are several things you can use.

Car wax has been mentioned, the polymers are best for that, stay away from anything that is a wax polish combination they have abrasives and can scratch your surface up. If you are some where particularly humid you can use any boat or marine polish as well. I like these as they are mostly based on lanolin and are green friendly. Pam cooking spray or cooking oil is very friendly but when used it takes away from the look. The idea is to spray it on and let it dry, it sort of plasticizes leaving a slightly yellow or brown film on your armor.

Things I would not use, Brasso, it is very corrosive and will actually cause more rust than it prevents unless you get All of it off your steel, more work than it is worth. WD40 will displace water as it is designed to do but evaporates and leaves no protection.

I cheat I eventually moved to armour that requires a lot less maintaining
Tim,

Just to throw in my two-bits worth. I do have some for real pieces, some high quality replicas, and a few representative items (junque). Rough from the hammer, brush finish, mirror polish, etc. all have a place, but a nice even satin sheen is what I lust after! Have used or tried many methods over the past 30 years plus, but none seemed to be as satisfactory as what I've been doing the last several months. Rubbing compound, car wax (good quality paste) and lots of time.

Starting with an item I have just removed the rust from or a new item, I use rubbing compound to get the degree of polish that I want. I then clean the surface thoroughly with alcohol (anything else will leave a residue); have even used soap and water on occasion. It is most important to get all of the oil and abrasive material of the surface before applying the wax. Sound simple and it it is....

Dan
A good mono-crystalline wax is what's used in most museums I believe. Renaissance Wax is a common brand name for this. I figure that if it's good enough for irreplaceable armour, over 500 years old, it's good enough for mine. I like James' suggestion however. Offshore oil rigs should have a good corrosion inhibitor if anyone does.
D. Austin wrote:
A good mono-crystalline wax is what's used in most museums I believe. Renaissance Wax is a common brand name for this. I figure that if it's good enough for irreplaceable armour, over 500 years old, it's good enough for mine. I like James' suggestion however. Offshore oil rigs should have a good corrosion inhibitor if anyone does.


I have a friend who works in a museum where they use renaissance wax. He said it's good for static displays, but it has some disadvantages. It is very difficult to remove if you do want to clean it off, but more importantly if you don't get absolute 100% coverage or you break the finish in some way, that spot that isn't protected will corrode very very quickly and quite deeply because you have a big "electrode" with only a tiny portion exposed to corrosive elements.
a friend of me used WD40 to remove the rust and then used olive oil to act as a protective coat

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