From surprisingly simple white box, an Albion Allectus, Mainz gladius. Holy cat! That's a knife. Ides of March. etc.
Sharp, but not as scary sharp as had imagined. All wood is much lighter than their photos, I hope will darken with linseed oil. End of review, since I know nothing.
I will also get the recommended blade oil & take good care of it.
After that... now what? My inclination is to use it, not just look at it & save it for resale someday. I took a PE fencing class long ago but forgot it all, & anyway this blade is totally different. Are there any good books on exercises, practice, etc.?
If I'd cut various semi-soft materials (old polyester pillows, cloth & foam dummies, plastic jugs, straw mats...), how much will I scratch up the pristine blade, beyond what I can polish out with a scotch pad?
Is there any "vague general consensus" how much extra the words "mint condition" are worth if someday sell it, as opposed to "gently used but well cared for"? If some 0-20% its one thing to cut with it, but if costs me way more, might be another. Anyway would like to have some idea before I cut, in case big mistake.
When resharpening a knife, the stone sits there, & the knife moves. A sword?!
Sorry for too many dumb questions, any help on any one of them appreciated!
Carl W. wrote: |
From surprisingly simple white box, an Albion Allectus, Mainz gladius. Holy cat! That's a knife. Ides of March. etc.
Sharp, but not as scary sharp as had imagined. All wood is much lighter than their photos, I hope will darken with linseed oil. End of review, since I know nothing. I will also get the recommended blade oil & take good care of it. After that... now what? My inclination is to use it, not just look at it & save it for resale someday. I took a PE fencing class long ago but forgot it all, & anyway this blade is totally different. Are there any good books on exercises, practice, etc.? If I'd cut various semi-soft materials (old polyester pillows, cloth & foam dummies, plastic jugs, straw mats...), how much will I scratch up the pristine blade, beyond what I can polish out with a scotch pad? Is there any "vague general consensus" how much extra the words "mint condition" are worth if someday sell it, as opposed to "gently used but well cared for"? If some 0-20% its one thing to cut with it, but if costs me way more, might be another. Anyway would like to have some idea before I cut, in case big mistake. When resharpening a knife, the stone sits there, & the knife moves. A sword?! Sorry for too many dumb questions, any help on any one of them appreciated! |
Congratulations on your first sword!
There are a bunch of books on swordsmanship for the medieval and later periods, but I can't think of any on using Roman swords, so I don't have much to offer on that subject.
I have used my Albions to cut milk bottles, pumpkins, and pool noodles. Obviously, such light targets haven't caused any edge damage, but there are small scratches on the parts of the blade of my oldest (Crecy). These scratches would be easily removed with a scotchbrite pad or light sanding, but they don't really bother me and aren't especially apparent. I haven't had to resharpen mine yet, but to do so I would probably feel most comfortable sending them back to Albion and have them do it. I think it's $30 plus shipping (which isn't much) to have it done.
As for resale, that's not something I would worry about. It wasn't too hard to sell swords a couple years ago, especially higher end ones like Albions, but lately from what I've seen watching the Marketplace forums not much is moving without drastic cuts from the original price, even with things like 'mint condition' or 'lightly/never used' are included in the price. So, my opinion would be that since you went and spent all that money on a nice sword, it would be a shame not to play with it :)
Oh, and for maintenance I have used Ballistol spray and Marine TuffCloth with good results. I prefer the TuffCloth because the Ballistol smells wierd when I'm spraying it, whereas the Tuffcloth doesn't smell particularly bad (to me anyway). I also like the control I have with a cloth as opposed to a spray.
You can buy TuffCloth here: http://www.sentrysolutions.com/TufClothkew.shtml (I usually go with the Marine Tufcloth because I am coastal, and why not)
and Ballistol here: http://www.firehawktech.com/
Good luck! :)
Hey Carl,
Excellent choice for your first sword and welcome to the hobby!! For my swords, I often use something called "Break Free CLP" which is a popular product among those who own and use firearms. Break Free is great as a rust preventive. What I do is dab a little bit along the blade, then wipe around gently with a soft cloth - toilet paper works best because it's thin and not abrasive. You're not wiping it off, you're just spreading it around. Allow it to sit for, I'd say, 4-6 hours and then wipe down the blade with any non-abrasive cloth or rag. As it sits, the Break Free solution will break up particles that form rust or oxidation. I've been using it for a few years and it's worked great!
You can find Break Free CLP at Bass Pro Shops by the hunting supplies.
There's also a good article here on myArmoury called "Care and Maintenance for the Modern Replica" (you can find it by clicking on 'Features'). Good luck and Merry Christmas! :)
Excellent choice for your first sword and welcome to the hobby!! For my swords, I often use something called "Break Free CLP" which is a popular product among those who own and use firearms. Break Free is great as a rust preventive. What I do is dab a little bit along the blade, then wipe around gently with a soft cloth - toilet paper works best because it's thin and not abrasive. You're not wiping it off, you're just spreading it around. Allow it to sit for, I'd say, 4-6 hours and then wipe down the blade with any non-abrasive cloth or rag. As it sits, the Break Free solution will break up particles that form rust or oxidation. I've been using it for a few years and it's worked great!
You can find Break Free CLP at Bass Pro Shops by the hunting supplies.
There's also a good article here on myArmoury called "Care and Maintenance for the Modern Replica" (you can find it by clicking on 'Features'). Good luck and Merry Christmas! :)
For know well the use of a gladio you have to test it with a scutum. Only so you can comprend how a legionario fight and live with his sword (or,best of all, you have to found 5.999 friends with whom you have to train :D )
It's not so difficult to make, a great tower shield curved with an umbone in the middle. Without the shield, the gladio it's not a so great sword (you have to test to comprend)...
It's not so difficult to make, a great tower shield curved with an umbone in the middle. Without the shield, the gladio it's not a so great sword (you have to test to comprend)...
There are certainly more learned people who could answer, but I did see the Roman sword discussed in a documentary, it may have been Conquest. The tactic was to fight in a group protected by your and your comrades' tower shields, stabbing out from around the shield at the legs or groin (ouch). This minimized the soldier's exposure, is quick, and is less tiring than swinging a weapon. Stay behind the shield, let your opponents tire themselves out bashing at the shield and wait for an opening. According to the documentary, Roman soldiers mocked the weapon swinging tactic of their opponents as inefficient and ridiculous. Seemed to work pretty well for them judging by the size of their empire.
How long ago did you order it? I ordered the same sword during the 25% off sale and was curious how long it took...
Addison - specific thanks to help me take plunge & make first cut.
I'm not trying to be a roman soldier. Just have fun, learn how to handle & what sword can do, & get more exercise than sitting in front of this pc :-)
Maybe a shield to get bit more exercise moving its weight around? Might be useful vs. rolling pins & household projectiles too. Does anyone have opinion of the 19", 6 lb fancy leather hanwei scottish targe? There are 15" bucklers also at about 6 lbs, but both an arm strap & hand grip appeal to me (knowing nothing - is single grip of buckler "stable" when hit?).
Then all I'll need to look really silly is a gladiator helmet. Maybe I can find one that's also rated for bicycle usage.
I didn't look for a poll - what is the most Fun to cut? Pumpkins? (outside I'd guess) Most fun thing to cut inside?
ps. Marcos, suggest you email Mike, hopefully will get good news.
I'm not trying to be a roman soldier. Just have fun, learn how to handle & what sword can do, & get more exercise than sitting in front of this pc :-)
Maybe a shield to get bit more exercise moving its weight around? Might be useful vs. rolling pins & household projectiles too. Does anyone have opinion of the 19", 6 lb fancy leather hanwei scottish targe? There are 15" bucklers also at about 6 lbs, but both an arm strap & hand grip appeal to me (knowing nothing - is single grip of buckler "stable" when hit?).
Then all I'll need to look really silly is a gladiator helmet. Maybe I can find one that's also rated for bicycle usage.
I didn't look for a poll - what is the most Fun to cut? Pumpkins? (outside I'd guess) Most fun thing to cut inside?
ps. Marcos, suggest you email Mike, hopefully will get good news.
Carl W. wrote: |
Addison - specific thanks to help me take plunge & make first cut.
I'm not trying to be a roman soldier. Just have fun, learn how to handle & what sword can do, & get more exercise than sitting in front of this pc :-) Maybe a shield to get bit more exercise moving its weight around? Might be useful vs. rolling pins & household projectiles too. Does anyone have opinion of the 19", 6 lb fancy leather hanwei scottish targe? There are 15" bucklers also at about 6 lbs, but both an arm strap & hand grip appeal to me (knowing nothing - is single grip of buckler "stable" when hit?). Then all I'll need to look really silly is a gladiator helmet. Maybe I can find one that's also rated for bicycle usage. I didn't look for a poll - what is the most Fun to cut? Pumpkins? (outside I'd guess) Most fun thing to cut inside? ps. Marcos, suggest you email Mike, hopefully will get good news. |
not that i'm into cutting but in my opinion pumpkin cutting would be far from fun, because the mess it makes on your blade=/
I've cut pumpkins without incident. Just give it a quick polish when you are finished and I imagine it would be just fine.
Carl, I wonder if you can test your new sword by cutting anything including pumpkins just like Kenton did. Or maybe you can show us its photo.
Progress... break free clp & linseed oil from wal mart. No luck yet with fine grey scotchbrite. Also search mission for enemy vegetables. John Belushi's deli method in our kitchen is new justification for costly gladius? 800x800/150kB photos in plan, pre & post cuts (if can tell).
Carl,
Here's one source:
http://www.neweggmall.com/Product/2001881530/...2001881530
And here is a thread I bookmarked that will help:
http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t...cotchbrite
And congrats! You're hooked now, brother!
Here's one source:
http://www.neweggmall.com/Product/2001881530/...2001881530
And here is a thread I bookmarked that will help:
http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t...cotchbrite
And congrats! You're hooked now, brother!
Many thanks RD, saved me. Lowes had a grey 3M pad which I now suspect is too coarse (label says replaces 00 fine steel wool). From your thread I ordered ultra fine #7448 via Amazon.
Turns out not easy to get good sword photos, but these are at least better than Albion's 1 overall shot...
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Turns out not easy to get good sword photos, but these are at least better than Albion's 1 overall shot...
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