hey guy's ok i need some big help here i just bought my first sword and the blade is loose dose any one know how to fix it

hi!
a bit more Information would be nice...Maker, vendor, type maybe a foto would be nice...so we can figure your problem out...

Andreas

Failing further information, a'la Andeas' post, duct tape would seem to be in order. You know what they say: "If it moves and it shouldn’t, you need duct tape; if it doesn’t move and it should, you need WD40."

go buy an albion?

Micheal, I'd see if your sword has a peened pommel. If it does, it's quite easy to fix, follow Bjorn's guide on how to tighten it, which I've done many times with great success, even my low end Windlass rings like a tuning fork.

http://bjorn.foxtail.nu/swords.htm

If it's a screw on pommel, dissemble it and use weld tight epoxy on all its components in reassembly.

Good Luck!

If your sword is made by a halfway decent manufacturer, then it should be an easy repair. There are plenty of 'how to' posts on here to fix common problems such as loose pommels, guards, grips, chipped blade edges, and more. If you could give us more information, such as the maker and model, it would help. Pictures would be better.

As for the 'go buy an Albion' comment - that's hardly a solution to this problem, I have a number of quality modern-replica swords and none of them are Albions. This is purely a matter of opinion and a quick search through the forums will show that Albion has the same exact QC problems that other manufacturers have. The only difference would be that instead of having a $ or $$ problem, you could have a $$$ problem.

Get some more information up and you will have alot of people interested in helping you.

Zach, when I saw Albion applying a grip wrap they used hide glue. Can you confirm for me that they use epoxy and show me where that's documented?

The tangs will over time get loose from movement and will even cut into the guard or pommel, or at least thats wat happened to my lechtenaur and to my hersir.

Quote:

Zach, when I saw Albion applying a grip wrap they used hide glue. Can you confirm for me that they use epoxy and show me where that's documented?

here it is wat they sed on "how it's made"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTg0Oc0mQy4
they sed the grip was put on with epoxy which bugged me, maybe it isnt true, its just wat they sed

Thanks, J. Pav-

As you say, "epoxied leather" is very different than having two grip core halves epoxied. In fact, they have nothing to do with each other.

Thanks for clarifying this.

Micheal,
Getting back to your original question, there are two other things you can do to tighten up your sword's hilt regardless of manufacturer, and while both will work, there will be subtle differences in the results. JB Weld can be used if you can fit a plastic straw into the gaps between the blade and the cross-mix up the product and cut the straw in half for ease of handling, then scoop the JB Weld into the straw until it is 2 or so inches full. Clamp the sword blade up in a padded vise, stick the straw into the gap, and squeeze it between your fingers down to the end to fill the opening. Watch to see if it sinks, then fill in behind till it's full. Clean up with Gun Scrubber on a paper towel before it sets. This method will be rock solid and tight enough to make the blade sing when you pluck it. Another thing you can use, and probably the better way to go if most of the grip is already filled with epoxy, is white PVA bookmakers glue (also known as "Jade" glue or Elmer's on steroids) available at art suppliers or university art departments. Fill a pipette, like the ones Testor's makes for painting scale models, and squirt the glue into the gaps, waiting for it to fill the empty spaces and adding as necessary till the hilt is full. You may have to twist the blade side to side to help the glue run into the hilt. Clean up excess with water as you go so that it doesn't set up where it shouldn't. This method is easier to do and mop up after, but the tang will be slightly cushioned due to PVA's urethane-like flexibility and the blade may lose some of its "ring." Either way, the hilt will be permanently tight. Let the JB Weld set up for a couple of days and the PVA for at least a week.