Hi everyone,
I bought myself a Arms and Armor medeival sword this last summer and want to do all this cutting stuff that you all talk about here. But what do I cut and where do I get these things? I am a completey new to cutting only have swords for show not for go. I dont want to break or damage the sword but want to enjoy it more than hanging on my room wall. Do I need to concern about polishing and fixing after?
I also have Museum Replicas' viking sword and their "TOWTON" sword. Is it ok to cut with too? They arent sharp tho rather blunt.
thanx

People use a variety of cutting materials. One of the simpler ideas that seems popular is empty plastic bottles filled with water. Another common target is so-called "pool noodles," foam cylinders you can buy at any place that sells pool toys. In Japanese arts, we use rolled and soaked tatami mats, and sometimes bamboo. These require more preparation / cleanup than bottles or noodles, but have their attractions. They can be ordered online.

Any cutting practice will eventually wear the finish on a sword blade in direct relation to how hard your cutting target is. Depending on the blade's current finish, this can stand out, be barely noticeable, be easy to repair, or be very expensive to repair. For instance, Albion swords have a satin finish that will not show much wear and can be restored with a bit of steel wool. Japanese nihonto and many Japanese-style swords usually have a very specialized polish that is not as easily restored. In the end it is up to you as to whether your intent is to keep the sword in pristine collector's condition, or to have fun with it and accept a bit of mild wear. Such wear doesn't necessarily look bad, keep in mind, and although you should always be honest about use/nonuse if you resell, it doesn't necessarily kill the resale value. Always clean the blade after practice, especially if you cut organic materials like tatami.

As long as safe practices are observed, both you and the sword should be OK. Normal cutting practice is unlikely to "break or damage" the sword unless it is badly made or not meant to be functional in the first place. Arms & Armor and Windlass (Museum Replicas) both make swords that are meant to be used, so that should be alright.

Usually any kind of cutting practice is best performed under instruction, but if such is unavailable, at least make sure you are cutting safely. Have someone else nearby ready to call 911, and make sure everyone is well out of range before any cutting/swinging/etc. Keep first aid supplies handy. Start with easy targets/setups and remain aware of your surroundings. Many like to wear protective equipment such as gloves (or even full harness!).

Some kinds of targets are less recommendable. I personally don't like cutting any kind of fruit or plant that still has juice/sap/whatever; it's tougher to clean and quick to stain. Of course, it can be a lot of fun as well. ;) Swords are not meant to cut hard targets like tree branches, metal, concrete (!), etc.... such practice is often referred to as "torture testing" and is usually meant either as a flashy demonstration, a test to see how far a blade can be pushed before breaking, or just ignorant abuse.

Phil,
Hello and welcome to myArmoury.com. :) There are many easily findable test-cutting targets. Many people simply take empty soda bottles and milk jugs, fill them with water and cut away. I do a lot of cutting with foam pool noodles, the long foam flotation devices kids play with in pools. This time of year, they can be pretty cheap, as they're out of season. I cut them in half so they don't bend so much when struck. That makes them easier to cut.

Watermelons, cantaloupes, pumpkins, etc. can also be good.

Others use straw mats. CAS Iberia now deals in them, and vendors like Kult of Athena stock them. They're generally more expensive than noodles or fruit but may offer a more realistic picture of what a sword can do.

The main things to remember are to always practice common sense when handling weapons and when you're around others who are handling weapons. Try to find a way to set up your target so you don't damage your sword in bad cuts. For example, you don't want to cut clean through a pumpkin then hit concrete post it's resting on. :) Wipe off anything your target leaves on your blade quickly and completely.

MRL swords aren't sharp but are decent enough to do some damage to most targets. I've coat foam noodles with a Towton and other MRL swords before.

PS - A quick Forum Search yielded many applicable threads, including the following:

What are the best things to cut
Tatami cutting - surprising results
Cutting Stand and Cutting Results

I'm sure you can find more with some clever search strings.

Have fun,
-GLL

I was wandering about this subject. Though in regards to what a XIII (Albion) can safely cut since that is there purpose.Things stated above I know it will have no trouble with. Though for the sake of arguement say you go to a butcher shop and get a pigs head or something along those lines how do you think the type XIII will handle?

Keep in mind cutting can dammage your sword especially if it isn't very sharp I once was using an MRL sword and the first time I used it I tried to cut a pumpkin and the hilt got all loose and started making noise when swung.

I'm back after a long holidays break! Thanks you all for the input. Im almost confident now but I had some times to cut cardboard boxes that presnts were wrapped in over the holidays and the efficiency of the blade almost scares me! maybe I shouldn't have jmped the gun and cut without first reading all these posts.........

Let me get a few things straight: for the museum replicas' swords i should sharpen them first right? If I dont I risk injury to myself or sword damage is that correct?

Also where do you buy pool noodles? What are their purpose?? floaties? Not that its important just curious.

Can you give an honest opinion if wether I should just use the arms and armor sword to cut and maybe keep the museum replicas' swords as decoration.

MRL has a fairly poor QC department. I'd continue to save and get one of the new Tinker / Hanwei line of swords over one of those.

A pool noodle is those foam tube things you see in the pool isle in stores. They float and don't seem to actually have a purpose to them.

M.

Phil, I'd use the MRLs for cutting if you can get them sharpened. I've done some cutting with a couple of their shorter models and have seen others cut with some of the longer ones with good success.
Which viking do you have?

I alraedy have a good quality sword from Arms and Armor that will cut great. I was only concerned about the Museum Replicas' swords. I have the damascus viking sword and the Norse. I'm happy with the quality of them was just wondering if I should sharpen and how to do so without screwing it up. I will use the arms and Armor to cut this weekend but wait on the museum replicas' ones until i sharpen them.
Does it make sense to take the Museum Replicas' swords to a tool sharpener or professional of some kind? Or can i just "touch them up" with a wet stone?

I don't think a tool sharpener is a good idea. It takes some effort to sharpen one, a file and some whetstones, or sandpaper. I'm not real good at it myself. There are several tutorials around.
As has already been mentioned, the fittings could become loose with use. If so this can usually be fixed. A sword is to be used in my opinion. Of course if you want a pristine show piece, probably best not to use them.

I got done today with cutting all weekend and wowwwww these things are so devistatingly scary when you really start to use them!! I used the Arms and Armor medieval sword and it made quick work of all. I cut cardboard mostly and pumpkins as per suggestions here on this post. it was so much fun!!!So much fun!! I got a digicamera this xmas and once I learn to use it and everything i might cut more and take photos for all.

Are there videos of people cutting? I know my form is bad. At times I felt like I was just doing golf or baseball and taking big swings......not really appropriate for combat!

My new hobby!!