This time it is an older Atrim 1401. I bought this second hand from Ken Jay and when strapped for cash earlier this year I actually tried to sell this sword and I am so glad that none of you took me up on that offer. Because I decided to modify the sword a bit and added a ring pommel to it as well as re-did the handle and now it has become one of my favorite swords for forms and cutting practice.

Here is what it looked like before with its original pommel and wood handle


Here is how it is configured now with the leather wrapped grip and ring pommel



The specs on this are
Now weighs 1100 grams
34 inch blade
44 inch total length to end of tang nut
1.55 inches wide at hilt, tapering to 7/8ths just before the tip turn
20 inch fuller, steep distal taper in that 20 inches then a shallower taper out to the tip
POB 5.25
COP 24 inches

Very light and lively as Gus would say. What the re-hilt did for this sword is change the balance a bit moving the POB out from about 4.5 to 5.25, which given its light weight - I actually like a lot. The harmonics on this sword seem really right. It cuts very well although with such a blade you have to be careful with the edge alignment going into the cut. But it is easy to get this going at full speed and direct it. At 1100, even with that further out POB, this is a true hand and a half sword in that I can cut with it in one hand as well as in two.

Now as for the hilt. I decided to have the tang standing out prominantly as per some of the swords documented by McCoy and are at the Nat'l Museum in Dublin. Its an aethetic not everyone will like but I personally like the way it came out. You would not want to be hit with a pommel strike by this sword, its all tighter and stronger than might appear at first glance. I made a brass nut for the tang end so both that brass and the regular ATrim nut are tightened down on the thread. The brass is actually seated just a little inside the top of the ring. The tang is rectangular and beefy like all of Gus' swords so the ring is actually seated tight through a rectangular cut in the bottom of the ring (unlike my A&A sword where the ring actually has some play and the tang is more circular). The whole thing is tight and sings

I originally intended to die the wrap red. The three leather risers are embossed with some knotwork and are dyed a deep green. However, my kids have convinced me to keep the leather undyed and natural in color. The leather is already taking on some color from being handled and I have given it a little of Scott Wilson's magic sauce to keep it supple.

All comments are welcome. Now all I need is to get to the top of Russ' list. Below is the A&A Irish sword for comparison. TR

Another great looking modification Thom. I am a sucker for Irish ring hilt swords so this really caught my attention. I think that your kids were correct about leaving the hilt natural. Over time it will have a look that will not be duplicated as it absorbs sweat, oil, and possibly blood (or pumpkin juices!).

What kind of scabbbard are you thinking of having Russ make for it? I am on his list and waiting to get to the top myself so I can get one for my AT/CF1423. Seeing what Russ has been putting out lately I can only imagine whatever he does will be great.

Scott

thanks Scott.... as for the scabbard check this out. I just rec'd this from another myArmoury member this week and is another example of the excellent work that Russ is doing. just outstanding work.

Well when Russ and I discussed that scabbard we ended up with the maelstrom line with a simple suspension., as it was my first commission with him and I did have a budget. So in the end I just wanted a nice home for my sword and wasn't really concerned with historical accuracy. I was quite pleased with how it all came together and have since had russ make two other scabbards for my Solingen and an Albion/ Christian Fletcher Borderwatch. He'll be doing another for my Landgraf as well.

I should have just entitled my original post "My ATrims"

here is the next one, my ATrim 1516. this time I swapped out the cross for another ATrim cross, cut the leather cord wrap away from the handle (but kept the three risers), and re-wrapped the handle, the back end with twisted 20 gauge silver wire, and the front end with a deep green dyed leather lacing. A friend of mine made a silver ring which slips over the pommel end. I am experimenting with the leather lacing here, I used two different sizes wrapped together to try to get a "rougher" grip. This sword has a very rectangular grip which is OK but takes a little getting used to.... at first I flubbed a lot of my cuts until I found that I had to make some adjustments to my wrist and my grip to get the edge of the sword aligned properly going into a cut. Once I did that, I have found this sword cuts as well or better than any of my swords. I bought this last year on a recommendation from Gus and Shooter Mike. Its a Type XVIII with a 33 inch blade but a long handle, overall the sword is 43.5 inches long. It weighs 1300g. The blade is two inches wide near the hilt and is made out of .25 inch stock. There is a ricasso on this which is visually quite interesting. Flattened diamond cross section with rather flat faces, I wouldn't call them convex or concave. As a result this blade is rather stiff and beefy in cross section yet the combination of a long tang and a nice distal taper gives it a nice balance point 4 inches from the hilt. No secondary bevel at the edge. Really, this is a homerun from Gus. I cut with this single handed for the most part. I would call this sword a 1.25 sword. I also did a little shop project on the Gus/Tinker sheath, wrapping it in a thin cowhide that I dyed with some stamped diamonds of leather for decoration and I added a brass chape and a hanger. For some reason this sword just speaks Lancaster/York to me.

Disclaimer: the following is in no way an endorsement for the Lancastrian claim to the throne.

Next up - a 1202. I bought an older ATrim 1202 from Lee Reeves earlier this year and rehilted it. I used an old brass windlass cross, an ATrim pommel that I like and carved a boat hilt, glued the halves together, wrapped in cord and black leather.

Blade is 36 inches long, has a long narrow fuller like a Type XI but the blade profile is more of a Type Xa (very linear and straight until just before the tip)

Overall Sword is 45.25 inches and weighs 1627 g. The POB is right at 6 inches

This is a beast of a cutter, can be used one handed - but is best with two hands. It feels a lot like the Albion Duke, once you set it into motion it just seems to pull itself through the mat. This is a sword to be used dismounted and on foot.