Greetings fellows!
I've found this photo about this sword, some of you may know it. I'm not sure, but maybe it was sold by MRL, and maybe manufactured by Windlass.
What is that brass like piece of metal under the guard? Is the guard fixed with that?
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Here is an entire view of the hilt
That's the Godfred by Hanwei, I used to have one. It's just a little lip of metal, probably epoxied to the guard to hide a rough cut slot for the blade.
Weapons Emporium lists having one in stock. http://www.weaponsemporium.com/WE-Premium%20Swords.htm
That was once manufactured by Windlass and sold through MRL as the Damascus Viking Sword. Hanwei makes an almost identical weapon and they call it the Godfred Sword. I bought the Windlass one from MRL in 2000 or so and I was actually very happy with it. Easily my favorite MRL sword. I still have it somewhere.
The brass piece is similar to the ones found on Japanese swords; seppa I believe they're called. The blade overlaps it slightly, so you can't really take it off. It isn't historical for a Viking sword and it serves no purpose that I can see, except maybe looks. It also makes a pleasant clicking sound when you slide it into the scabbard. :)
The brass piece is similar to the ones found on Japanese swords; seppa I believe they're called. The blade overlaps it slightly, so you can't really take it off. It isn't historical for a Viking sword and it serves no purpose that I can see, except maybe looks. It also makes a pleasant clicking sound when you slide it into the scabbard. :)
Aha, so it is there, because somebody tought, it looks cool. I thought, that the guard is somehow wedged on the blade with that piece of metal.
Yes, I know, that it is not historical.
Eric Spitler wrote: That's the Godfred by Hanwei, I used to have one. It's just a little lip of metal, probably epoxied to the guard to hide a rough cut slot for the blade.
How though is this epoxy? I have read about it on the forum, I know that there is a special sort of epoxy for metal. Isn't it brittle after hardening?
Yes, I know, that it is not historical.
Eric Spitler wrote: That's the Godfred by Hanwei, I used to have one. It's just a little lip of metal, probably epoxied to the guard to hide a rough cut slot for the blade.
How though is this epoxy? I have read about it on the forum, I know that there is a special sort of epoxy for metal. Isn't it brittle after hardening?
Antal László wrote: |
Aha, so it is there, because somebody tought, it looks cool. I thought, that the guard is somehow wedged on the blade with that piece of metal.
Yes, I know, that it is not historical. Eric Spitler wrote: That's the Godfred by Hanwei, I used to have one. It's just a little lip of metal, probably epoxied to the guard to hide a rough cut slot for the blade. How though is this epoxy? I have read about it on the forum, I know that there is a special sort of epoxy for metal. Isn't it brittle after hardening? |
It may not be epoxied then, I just guessed because I didn't see any rivets or anything. It could also just be held between the blade and guard, like a washer. Either way I think it's purely cosmetic.
Does anyone have any experience in using this epoxy?
Thanks for the answers guys!
Thanks for the answers guys!
Antal László wrote: |
Does anyone have any experience in using this epoxy?
Thanks for the answers guys! |
Well, actually I have used it (epoxy is usually a two-part resin that when mixed glues/bonds/hardens/sticks very well once set)... among other things, I had an "incident" in which my side mirror of my car came in contact with a post (got a little too close) and got torn nearly off. I used the epoxy to remount it. Once set, it was a solid as can be.
If by brittle you mean does it break... I'd say the metal is more likely to fail than the epoxy.
Thomas Watt wrote: | ||
Well, actually I have used it (epoxy is usually a two-part resin that when mixed glues/bonds/hardens/sticks very well once set)... among other things, I had an "incident" in which my side mirror of my car came in contact with a post (got a little too close) and got torn nearly off. I used the epoxy to remount it. Once set, it was a solid as can be. If by brittle you mean does it break... I'd say the metal is more likely to fail than the epoxy. |
I remember my first uses of epoxy around 1970 and in those days the bond of the adhesive seemed strong but very brittle as a sideways shear would break the bond.
At some point in time the formula for epoxy glues were improved and now seems strong and not easy to break.
Maybe epoxy glues are not available everywhere in the world but are very easy to find In Canada or the U.S.A. ?
Oh, there are various brands and kinds: Metal epoxy, slow setting epoxy and 5 minute setting epoxies.
To avoid the chance of the epoxy failing sideways, I drill small, shallow holes in both metals. So far it worked wonderfully... :)
The type of e' I use have adjustable hardness, depending on the amount of component B in the mix. If a little is added, it hardens slowly and becomes a bit rubber-like, if a lot is added, it gets very hard&brittle, if you add even more, it starts smoking due to the exoterm process.... :lol:
László, ha Magyarországon jársz, van egy Albonczy nevezetű epoxigyanta, elég olcsó ahhoz, hogy kipróbáld... kétkomponensű műgyantaként biztosan felfogja az eladó is, hogy miről beszélsz... :lol:
The type of e' I use have adjustable hardness, depending on the amount of component B in the mix. If a little is added, it hardens slowly and becomes a bit rubber-like, if a lot is added, it gets very hard&brittle, if you add even more, it starts smoking due to the exoterm process.... :lol:
László, ha Magyarországon jársz, van egy Albonczy nevezetű epoxigyanta, elég olcsó ahhoz, hogy kipróbáld... kétkomponensű műgyantaként biztosan felfogja az eladó is, hogy miről beszélsz... :lol:
I have this sword the Hanwei Godfred Viking Sword, however mine was bought in the last 2 years and as I've been told there have been many improvements since the earlier manufacting of swords by Hanwei. While I've read complaints on this sword, though it seems that those complaints were consistant with earlier version of the Godfred. I've done a lot of cutting with mine and I have not one complaint, it cuts very well and one place to find this sword at a low price would be
www.kultofathena.com Some vendors sell this sword for around $500.00, the place I listed sells it for just over $300.00.
Hope this helps!
Bob
www.kultofathena.com Some vendors sell this sword for around $500.00, the place I listed sells it for just over $300.00.
Hope this helps!
Bob
Thanks for your answers!
Thanks for sharing your experience. Would it be possible to fix with epoxy a loosen cross guard on a sword what is used for reenactment?
Kösz a tippet! :lol: Meg fogom próbálni, de legközelebb csak nyáron megyek haza. Minden jót!
Adam Bodorics wrote: |
To avoid the chance of the epoxy failing sideways, I drill small, shallow holes in both metals. So far it worked wonderfully... :)
The type of e' I use have adjustable hardness, depending on the amount of component B in the mix. If a little is added, it hardens slowly and becomes a bit rubber-like, if a lot is added, it gets very hard&brittle, if you add even more, it starts smoking due to the exoterm process.... :lol: |
Thanks for sharing your experience. Would it be possible to fix with epoxy a loosen cross guard on a sword what is used for reenactment?
Adam Bodorics wrote: |
László, ha Magyarországon jársz, van egy Albonczy nevezetű epoxigyanta, elég olcsó ahhoz, hogy kipróbáld... kétkomponensű műgyantaként biztosan felfogja az eladó is, hogy miről beszélsz... :lol: |
Kösz a tippet! :lol: Meg fogom próbálni, de legközelebb csak nyáron megyek haza. Minden jót!
:wtf: some one said they had one made by mrl is this true the 2 damascus viking swords ive seen by mrl look diffrent?
ne way i used to use epoxy to hilt knive until i found way to make an equaly strong glue made from antler shavings and beeswax
ne way i used to use epoxy to hilt knive until i found way to make an equaly strong glue made from antler shavings and beeswax
yes it would be possible to use epoxy but i would suggest melting pewter or lead like a sodder or u could use ferrel-tite not sure of th spelling its normally used for attatching arrow heads but can be used like glue and looks like beeswax and anler when dried
Hello to all. I've been around for a while, but rarely post. I bought one of the earlier versions of this sword (before they extended the fuller to the guard). I'm not sure what functional purpose the piece in question serves, but I have never had a problem with the hilt of this sword. I have only done light cutting, but it has held up better than anything I own, which I regret are mostly low end production swords.
If you are interested in purchasing this sword feel free to pm me. I'm not trying to sell you mine, but I would be happy to answer any specific questions you have to the best of my ability.
Scott
If you are interested in purchasing this sword feel free to pm me. I'm not trying to sell you mine, but I would be happy to answer any specific questions you have to the best of my ability.
Scott
Antal László wrote: | ||
Kösz a tippet! :lol: Meg fogom próbálni, de legközelebb csak nyáron megyek haza. Minden jót! |
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