Hi,
I hope someone can give me some general info on who to get a sword from, what type it should be and how cheap it can be!
We are starting to re-enact and need a sword for live steel the group are fairly picky about how authentic things are but..... as long as it is shaped like a 15th century sword, Im sure there will be no quarell! :D
Obviously we are looking for a novice sword, therefore hopefully cheap, although we do respect that this is often not possible.
Can anyone give some ideas/introduce us to some makers websites where we can find trusty re-enactors swords from the 15th century!
Were generally looking for a one handed sword or a hand and a half, if we can afford it. (My son.)
Thanks
Please take some time to check out our extensive Reviews section (the most extensive on the web). There are reviews of products by many makers there with statistics and high quality pictures.
Hanwei practical hand and a half isn't expensive and it's quite good for the money. I think it's about 110-120 USD.
if they are picky then the words cheap will not be in your vocabulary. i have a Lutel that fit the bill for my first 15thc sword for a blunt.
what is teh required thickness for the edge of the blade? 2 mm or less? if it is less you could use a del tin, they dont come sharpened.
what is teh required thickness for the edge of the blade? 2 mm or less? if it is less you could use a del tin, they dont come sharpened.
For pure durability and performance, a thin bladed Armour Class is probably the best of-the-shelf option;
http://www.armourclass.co.uk/Data/Pages/Medieval_Main2.htm
3,8-1,9 cm blade is a must, since the blades have the same fuller width regardless of actual blade width.
Not to pretty, but reasonably light, and virtually indestructible.
http://www.armourclass.co.uk/Data/Pages/Medieval_Main2.htm
3,8-1,9 cm blade is a must, since the blades have the same fuller width regardless of actual blade width.
Not to pretty, but reasonably light, and virtually indestructible.
http://www.kultofathena.com/product~item~5007...+Sword.htm
I ordered this one by Kult of Athena, great folks, fast shipping. Nice sword for the money, comes with a sheath but the sheath is nothing special. The sword itself is fine, nice ricasso too.
I ordered this one by Kult of Athena, great folks, fast shipping. Nice sword for the money, comes with a sheath but the sheath is nothing special. The sword itself is fine, nice ricasso too.
Thanks for the feedback everyone, sorry it took so long to reply, have been rifling through reviews etc. thanks for everyones input, it will definately help in my quest to find a sword haha. :D
Van de Laak wrote: |
http://www.kultofathena.com/product~item~500794~name~Long+Sword.htm
I ordered this one by Kult of Athena, great folks, fast shipping. Nice sword for the money, comes with a sheath but the sheath is nothing special. The sword itself is fine, nice ricasso too. |
I would double check with any group about that sword; Lord Grey's would never let it in.
May I know why? Thanks.
Quote: |
May I know why? Thanks. |
Most groups require a minimum width of edge. I can't speak for Lord Grey's, but most groups require atleast 2mm thick, with a round tip for safety purposes. The Windlass edge, although not terribly sharp, is most certainly not designed for live steel combat. That is not to say some groups won't allow it, but many will not...
Thank you for the info. I personally use it only for solo practise, so therefore I didn't gave any thought regarding the edge thickness or point sharpness etc. My apologies for suggesting this sword for re-enactment purposes.
It is more than the edge; in fact we use Del Tin blades so the edge is not an issue it is the finish of the sword. We do not use anything with nickel plated cross guards or pommels, which this looks to have like many other inexpensive blades do. Also the shape of the pommel and that odd circular piece between the handle and pommel (might be part of the pommel) are not really historical.
On top of that if the handle is suede like the other sword from this company it is not a historical finish to the handle. Modern suede is not the same as suede used in the late Middle Ages or Renaissance anyway; when you see something like shoes or clothing referred too as suede from that time period that means the split side of the leather is outside and the smooth side of a hide is inside.
Granted we hold high standards but I think just about anyone using the title living history for their group is going to reject a sword with such flawed design; as I said double check with the group you are joining before buying.
On top of that if the handle is suede like the other sword from this company it is not a historical finish to the handle. Modern suede is not the same as suede used in the late Middle Ages or Renaissance anyway; when you see something like shoes or clothing referred too as suede from that time period that means the split side of the leather is outside and the smooth side of a hide is inside.
Granted we hold high standards but I think just about anyone using the title living history for their group is going to reject a sword with such flawed design; as I said double check with the group you are joining before buying.
James Barker wrote: |
On top of that if the handle is suede like the other sword from this company it is not a historical finish to the handle. Modern suede is not the same as suede used in the late Middle Ages or Renaissance anyway; when you see something like shoes or clothing referred too as suede from that time period that means the split side of the leather is outside and the smooth side of a hide is inside. |
That's a Windlass sword, not a Gen 2. The handle wrap would be standard MRL black leather, not suede.
Indeed, its just simple black leather, nothing special... can always replace it with wire for example. Actually the crossguard and pommel are stainless steel, (not the blade of course), not nickel plated. Circular ring? Perhaps you are referring to another sword?
Anyway, I only use it for solo practise, don't really mind if its exactly 100 % historically correct. (at least when only paying USD170 or so) But I appreciate your comments nonetheless. Thanks.
Again this is the sword:
http://www.reliks.com/merchant.ihtml?pid=2020
Anyway, I only use it for solo practise, don't really mind if its exactly 100 % historically correct. (at least when only paying USD170 or so) But I appreciate your comments nonetheless. Thanks.
Again this is the sword:
http://www.reliks.com/merchant.ihtml?pid=2020
Van
Just so you know stainless steel would be out for us also. This is the ring I mean:
[ Linked Image ]
Never seen anything like it on a historical example.
Just so you know stainless steel would be out for us also. This is the ring I mean:
[ Linked Image ]
Never seen anything like it on a historical example.
Thanks everyone for all the comments and what not, thanks for the info james, although I dont think that circular piece you were talking about would be a problem with the MSS (Medieval seige society) they would probarbly just say, dont leave it on display outside your tent, just use it for re-enactment where you are not under so many eagle eyes and close scrutinys from very accurate historians etc.
Although, blade thickness may be a problem so I take your point on that and its definately something I will have to look into.
thanks again
Although, blade thickness may be a problem so I take your point on that and its definately something I will have to look into.
thanks again
Douglas Huxtable wrote: |
Hi,
I hope someone can give me some general info on who to get a sword from, what type it should be and how cheap it can be! We are starting to re-enact and need a sword for live steel the group are fairly picky about how authentic things are but..... as long as it is shaped like a 15th century sword, Im sure there will be no quarell! :D Obviously we are looking for a novice sword, therefore hopefully cheap, although we do respect that this is often not possible. Can anyone give some ideas/introduce us to some makers websites where we can find trusty re-enactors swords from the 15th century! Were generally looking for a one handed sword or a hand and a half, if we can afford it. (My son.) Thanks |
Hi Douglas,
Just to add my opinions - I bought a single handed sword from Armour Class (blunt re-enactment) - it has served me very well, and I use it for both sword and buckler classes, and in WotR re-enactment (15th century) battles. The edge has stood up well to being hit. I have found that it does not burr easily, and it is only now after two years that I have to look to filing down the edges.
It is also very good for technique work in classes as previously mentioned, as they are a reasonable weight and balance.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
If you are based in the UK, perhaps look to coming to The Original Re-enactor's Market held in Ryton on Dunsmore (9th/10th November) - Armour Class will have a stand there, and Phil Fraser usually sells a few good swords on his leather stall. - just type 'TORM' into Google and you'll find details.
Regards,
Fran
You could remove that flange quit easily with a hacksaw.
Thanks frances and sean, I will definately look into the market, we saw phil at the last re-enactment we went to, which was herstmonceux this year.
Ill keep my eyes open and thankyou for the feedback. :D
Ill keep my eyes open and thankyou for the feedback. :D
I was browsing the WWW and found this; http://www.theknightshop.co.uk/catalog/practi...8fb54f2ccd its not correct to the period, but looks very similar to this; http://therionarms.com/reenact/therionarms_c481.html which I think is, is this 15th cent.?
thanks
thanks
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