where is the point of balance on two edeged swords
Hi all,
i have this small hand and half sword that i made, and i was wondering where the point of balance should be?....here are the dementions...blade length 20inch handle length 7.5 inch . i made this piece from a chain saw bar, which is a little less than .25 inch thick..but after filling and sanding ,the blade is somewhat thinner.
Re: where is the point of balance on two edeged swords
Peter Headings wrote:
Hi all,
i have this small hand and half sword that i made, and i was wondering where the point of balance should be?....here are the dementions...blade length 20inch handle length 7.5 inch . i made this piece from a chain saw bar, which is a little less than .25 inch thick..but after filling and sanding ,the blade is somewhat thinner.


Peter,
Hello and welcome to myArmoury.com. :) Your question is complex as point of balance could vary widely from type to type, purpose to purpose. A cutting sword from the 13th century might have a very different POB from a thrusting sword of 1550, etc. POB, COP, and overall mass distribution varied by design quite a bit.

Our reviews of reproductions (185 and counting) and our collection gallery pages (223 pages) almost always include POB. Looking through those for swords of similar dimensions to yours might help a range come to mind.
The point of balance would be where the sword balances easily without outward assistance...

The Features section has an article on point of balance if I'm not mistaken. If it does, then the words point of balance should be hyper linked in this post.

M.
I have read in places where all swords balance point is supposed to be at excatly "such and such" place. Well, that may work with some but not all. You may pick up five swords of the same style and find they will not all feel the same.

A "rule of thumb" is a well balanced sword should not feel so "hilt heavy" that the blade feels "whippy". Nor should the blade feel too "blade heavy" that all the weights "out there" but feels like holding a "dead piece of iron". It should feel "alive in the hand" that woos you to strike as Oakshott mentions in his book " Archaeology of Weapons". And he is largely correct.

Swords, depending on the period, are not really heavy. It is just most people are not used to holding something that extends so far out from the hand. So to most, even a 2 pound broadsword would feel awkward, if all your expertise is holding a fencing foil. But the foil was designed for a specific style of fighting, just as the medieval broadsword. Too often I have seen someone buy a medieval style single handed broadsword with a two handed grip believing that is the only way these can be used. Something like a Katana because that is all they have seen it used like.
For this kind of blade length I'd look into the balance of gladii. But handling that with two hands seems strange... Are there any hand and a half swords with such short blade? I'm quite sure I've never heard of one.

And of course point of balance is only one part of the equation. You'd have to look at least at pivot points as well, something even more difficult to find numbers for...
I have to agree that the blade turned out a little shorter than was planed....and the handle isn't prob as long as a full sized sword ...oh ya a another question. is a chainsaw bar good materail to make swords and daggers from?? :D
well, i've found that with this sword you mostly use it one handed exept when your doing downward or difficult angle chops
I bought a custom knife up in Alaska that was forged from chainsaw bar stock. My brother uses it elk hunting and it is a great knife. I would assume that properly tempered it would be good for certain swords and daggers as well.
When i made this sword i was told that the bar itself was hard enough to make a decent sword......but i think that a good temper would prob increase its durability. ~peter~
Peter Headings wrote:
When i made this sword i was told that the bar itself was hard enough to make a decent sword......but i think that a good temper would prob increase its durability. ~peter~


Sure.

As of point of balance, try to search this website for peter Johnson opinions and impressions on his art of recreating swords.

You can confront them with a different approach at swordforum (there is an article on harmonics in swords etc).

I personally think PJ is right since he doesn't see swordmaking as a rigid recipe art.

Just confront different approaches and decide by yourself.
Peter Headings wrote:
When i made this sword i was told that the bar itself was hard enough to make a decent sword......but i think that a good temper would prob increase its durability. ~peter~


Chainsaw Bar? That sounds like it would at least look unusual (In a good way), I don't suppose you can post any pictures? Off the top of my head, I would guess that Chainsaw Bar stock is made from either Mild-Steel or an impact-resistant alloy. Google "Spark Test" and that will show a very handy way to be able to tell the difference. If it's Mild-Steel, all you can really do is Case-Harden it.

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