I was wondering if anyone was familiar with this site. Their weapons look beautiful, but looks on the internet can be deceiving. I really like this longsword and am considering getting it providing its suitable for steel combat.
Mike
[ Linked Image ]
Michael Mercier wrote: |
I was wondering if anyone was familiar with this site. Their weapons look beautiful, but looks on the internet can be deceiving. I really like this longsword and am considering getting it providing its suitable for steel combat.
Mike |
The pictures look good, and the prices are about half what a Lutel would be, which is the best benchmark for good price Czech weapons. However the payment system doesn't include credit cards, so you would be buying a lot on faith.
On the other hand if this guy's stuff is as good as Lutel or Vladimir Czervenka products then it would definitely be worth it in my opinion. Then again, it all comes down to personal preference in the end. How much you want to spend on a sword from a relatively unknown craftsman is really a personal decision of faith when you get down to it.
I dont like the shape of the blade....especially the ending of fuller.Don't you think that most of the blades are the same and only grips and cross iare different?
Michal Plezia wrote: |
I dont like the shape of the blade....especially the ending of fuller.Don't you think that most of the blades are the same and only grips and cross iare different? |
The "one-and-a-half" blades do all have what appears to be a lozenge cross-section with narrow fuller of, maybe, 2/3 blade length, nearly parallel edged profile and rounded tip. Oakeshott Type XIIIa?
Within their catalog "sword" grouping, there is some variation in the blade profiles and fullering. The catalog indicates different typologies, as well, e.g., Petersen Type C, Oakeshott Type XI. One of the single hand swords is identified as Type XVI, but still seems to have a lozenge cross section from the end of the fuller to the tip.
The Web site being discussed: http://www.sword-gur.com
Hello,
I just have seen the website of Jan Motycka aka Red Gur
http://www.sword-gur.com/
Is anybody familiar with his work?
Thomas
I just have seen the website of Jan Motycka aka Red Gur
http://www.sword-gur.com/
Is anybody familiar with his work?
Thomas
Everything looks very nicely done, I really like the rapier.
I am quite familiar with Gur´s blades. I own the V005 viking sword and T001 two-handed sword. Both are made as replicas of original medival swords that were found relatively intact and I consider these to be quite close to the originals. I is great, that Gur actually listens to your comments and is willing to modify his manufacturing processes due to your specifications - I have hot an unfortunate experience that most of other sword makers is trying to simplify their work even for the cost of lesser quality.
Several comments on the Gur´s swords I own..
Blade is very precisely crafted - absolutely straight - the same goes about the fuller. In comparison with, other blades I own (Had, Lutel) is in my oppinion a little better - after three years of active fencing is still in very good condition.
The weapons are quite easy to handle, the viking I own weights 1.3 kgs.
I really like the design and composition of this swords - these looks very good, perfectly hold together, nothing is loose, nothing is shaking, not even after longer use.
Of course... nothing is indestructible... the blades have quite slim edge (1mm) and if fencing more fierce without knowing proper techniques it could be damaged.. But a thicker edge could be ordered... but I persomally prefer the thin one - it gives the weapon a more realistic look.
Several comments on the Gur´s swords I own..
Blade is very precisely crafted - absolutely straight - the same goes about the fuller. In comparison with, other blades I own (Had, Lutel) is in my oppinion a little better - after three years of active fencing is still in very good condition.
The weapons are quite easy to handle, the viking I own weights 1.3 kgs.
I really like the design and composition of this swords - these looks very good, perfectly hold together, nothing is loose, nothing is shaking, not even after longer use.
Of course... nothing is indestructible... the blades have quite slim edge (1mm) and if fencing more fierce without knowing proper techniques it could be damaged.. But a thicker edge could be ordered... but I persomally prefer the thin one - it gives the weapon a more realistic look.
Hello Jaromir,
can you tell us more abot the manufacturing process?
which steel?
forged or stock removal blades?
peened or screewed tang?
Balance and CoP at your models?
Thanks,
Thomas
can you tell us more abot the manufacturing process?
which steel?
forged or stock removal blades?
peened or screewed tang?
Balance and CoP at your models?
Thanks,
Thomas
From the pages you can find that the hardness is about 50 - 52 HRc. Some more pics and info you can find here http://www.sword-gur.com/WEB/STR/clanky.htm. Looking quite good.
Thomas Laible wrote: |
Hello Jaromir,
can you tell us more abot the manufacturing process? which steel? forged or stock removal blades? peened or screewed tang? Balance and CoP at your models? Thanks, Thomas |
The blade is made of 14/260 cold-rolled steel, which is quite common for historical fencing use. I don´t know, what material is used for crossguard and pommel. These parts are forged, the blade itself is made by stock removal. I personally do not prefer forged blades to these provided by the condition that these are of similar quality.
Tang - the viking is peened, two-handed sword screewd. Both versions are available, I guess.
Balance - viking - 15cm from the crossguard, two hander 11cm
CoP - viking - 57 cm from the cg, two hander 65 cm
Risto Rautiainen wrote: |
From the pages you can find that the hardness is about 50 - 52 HRc. Some more pics and info you can find here http://www.sword-gur.com/WEB/STR/clanky.htm. Looking quite good. |
Risto or Jaromir,
could you tranlate this?
Unfortunately English is my only foreign language ;)
Thanks,
Thomas
I am putting some money aside to get his hand and a half. Someday when I place the order and get it I will, of course, give everyone a review of it.
Mike
Mike
Thomas Laible wrote: | ||
Risto or Jaromir, could you tranlate this? Unfortunately English is my only foreign language ;) Thanks, Thomas |
These are four short articles on following topics:
Anatomie meče - Shows how the parts of a sword are called in Czech
Krevní žlábek - The fuller - It is there to improve the characteristics of the blade, not to drain blood, despite the older Czech terminology may suggest otherwise.
Jak se dívat na meč - What should you examine on the sword - several comments for unexperienced users on how they can quickly spot common faults of the manufacturer by looking on the blade and bending it. Instructive photos included.
Práce s kůží - Leatherworks - instructions how to make engraved bracers.
More interesting is this - http://www.sword-gur.com/WEB/STR/technolog.htm
You can find the basics of used technology there accompanied with some photograps of unfinished parts... I will try to translate it into english, it just might take me some time - it´s a longer text..
Here is the first half of my translation of the manufacturing technology section of Gur´s website...Enjoy..
Manufacturing technology
Used material:
High - strength steel 14 260
Hardening:
The blades are temper-hardened industrially to achieve better and more homogenous results than by manual hardening. They are hardened to 50 - 52 HRc - this allows to combine durability with flexibility.
Crossguards and Pommels:
I do not use shaped casting to make crossguards and pommels. With exception of round and conic-shaped pommels, which are turning-lathed, all other parts are hand forged and then rough grinded and polished.
Even the inlet for the tang is manually cut (we do not use milling cutter) into the crossguard and optimized to the shape of the tang.
Two photos showing crossguard after forging and finished crossguard follow...
Manufacturing technology
Used material:
High - strength steel 14 260
Hardening:
The blades are temper-hardened industrially to achieve better and more homogenous results than by manual hardening. They are hardened to 50 - 52 HRc - this allows to combine durability with flexibility.
Crossguards and Pommels:
I do not use shaped casting to make crossguards and pommels. With exception of round and conic-shaped pommels, which are turning-lathed, all other parts are hand forged and then rough grinded and polished.
Even the inlet for the tang is manually cut (we do not use milling cutter) into the crossguard and optimized to the shape of the tang.
Two photos showing crossguard after forging and finished crossguard follow...
I am currently searching for a good sharp for test-cutting. Dose sword-gur offer sharpened swords, or just blunts for sparring?
Attachment: 16.89 KB
The Sword I am planning on getting: model J007
Attachment: 41.76 KB
The sword my friend is planning on getting: model T001 [ Download ]
Attachment: 16.89 KB
The Sword I am planning on getting: model J007
Attachment: 41.76 KB
The sword my friend is planning on getting: model T001 [ Download ]
Sam N. wrote: |
Dose sword-gur offer sharpened swords, or just blunts for sparring? |
I hear from Schola Gladiatoria's forum that you can get those swords sharpened for an extra 10 euros. But remember that it won't produce a sharp sword, just a sharpened blunt. If you know what I mean.
Page 1 of 1
You cannot post new topics in this forumYou cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
All contents © Copyright 2003-2006 myArmoury.com All rights reserved
Discussion forums powered by phpBB © The phpBB Group
Switch to the Full-featured Version of the forum
Discussion forums powered by phpBB © The phpBB Group
Switch to the Full-featured Version of the forum