Posts: 552 Location: San Jose, CA
Fri 08 Sep, 2006 10:54 am
Addison C. de Lisle wrote: |
My one complaint with this product is that after I wipe off the excess it sometimes leaves streak marks down the blade. I think I may be wiping off the excess too early though. |
Oh yea, forgot that one. I noticed that streaking too. You can usually just buff it out though with a dry cloth right after applying the Tuff Cloth. Whether that takes off some of the Tuff Cloth perservative and degrades its effectiveness is anyone's guess.
Overall it's a good product, just not what I plan on using in the future. The sum knowledge to take away from this thread I guess is that there is no one product that is the SUPER product for rust prevention. There are a lot of products out there to use and all work basically well if you use them right. In the end it's depends upon how much effort and work you want to do to prevent rust.
Just remember, applying wax/Tuff Cloth/oil to your weapon should be looked upon as a joy and not a pain. After all, it gives you an excuse to pull it out of storage and fondle it some more. :-)
Posts: 42 Location: Muscatine, IA, USA
Fri 08 Sep, 2006 2:06 pm
The last time I oiled my lacquer stripped MRL Longsword, I actually just used some unopened 10-W30 Valvaline motor oil that I had in the garage. It has been over two months since then and I haven't had any rust problems upon the blade. I do have a few patches appearing upon the pommel and cross, but they may be due to it being carried and handled at a Ren Faire that I went to last weekend.
I have noticed that the motor oil has a tendency to bead upon the blade. I'm not sure whether this is due to the oil itself, or to thick of a coating. Eitherway, I intend to reclean, repolish, and re-oil it with something better this weekend. While the motor oil worked, I wouldn't suggest relying on it if you have access to the lighter weight machine and gun oils.
Regarding RenWax, Museum Replicas sells the stuff for pretty cheap. I haven't tried it, but I've been thinking about picking some up for my rarely handled display blades.
Posts: 1,812 Location: Washington DC metro area, USA
Fri 08 Sep, 2006 3:59 pm
Chad Sonderberg wrote: |
...Regarding RenWax, Museum Replicas sells the stuff for pretty cheap. I haven't tried it, but I've been thinking about picking some up for my rarely handled display blades. |
I suggest that you check Highland Hardware for RenWax - I have always found their price to be significantly cheaper than at MRL. I have ordered several different items from Highland Hardware at different times, and their delivery was always very prompt.
Posts: 30 Location: Lorton Virginia
Mon 31 Aug, 2009 7:56 pm
So this thread has been sleeping for 3 years and I would like to hear from the previous posters again.
Is your original protectant still working, weather it was renwax, tuf cloth, wd40 or oil?
Have any of you changed methods? Did this change result in an improvement?
How long has your blade gone without reapplication and what where the results?
Posts: 2 Location: The Republic of Texas
Tue 01 Sep, 2009 5:15 pm
BREAK FREE COLLECTOR
.
Metal must be clean.
If rust is there, it MUST be removed, as has been mentioned.
If you don't want to use wax, this product is the best I've found --
BREAK FREE COLLECTOR
http://www.impactguns.com/store/088592002046.html
I've just started with swords, but have collected rifles and
pistols for 40 years. This is an excellent preservative
oil
and was designed as such.
best, Chris
.
Posts: 382 Location: San Antonio, TX
Tue 01 Sep, 2009 6:06 pm
Personally I use a product called ACF-50. (Anti-Corrosion Formula) was originally designed to protect aircraft from existing and new corrosion. This stuff has proved to be my armor's best friend. I have my armor on a stand in my house and I re-
oil after every use or If I have not used my armor. At the least I re-apply a coat every month and a half.
I have been using this for close to 2 years now. When I first acquired armor I did not
oil for 2 months and I noticed rust spots to appear. After three applications of the ACF-50 with a bristle brush the rust was gone.
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm
http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html
and to buy
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acf50.php
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