Stephan,
I merged your new thread with an existing one for home-made projects. While the older topic has more to do with bladed weapons, I think having one topic for home-made items is better than two. :)
It´s ok Chad I simply wasn´t aware of this thread
Hello!
These are my creations. As you can see they are not finished yet, the sword needs a grip and the helmet a padding. I look forward to working on them :cool:
These are my creations. As you can see they are not finished yet, the sword needs a grip and the helmet a padding. I look forward to working on them :cool:
Yes, I forgott to attach the photo.
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Attachment: 40.98 KB
Not only grip and padding, also a lot of polishing.
I have forged and made knives via stock-removal.
I love using old saw blades(great steel)!!!!!!!!!! and I have a horse so I get all the old rasps and files from my ferrier, like 10 a week for free as he used to have to pay to throw them away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: those have incredible steel and work well in my forge.
A 5 inch grinder and a drill are the only power tools I have so anything else is done by hand e.g. the fullers were a few hours with a round file
great idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have always used a dremmel like object as i dont have fullering tools. man thats a good idea im so excited ill have to steel your idea for sure :) :D :lol:
I love using old saw blades(great steel)!!!!!!!!!! and I have a horse so I get all the old rasps and files from my ferrier, like 10 a week for free as he used to have to pay to throw them away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: those have incredible steel and work well in my forge.
Quote: |
Quote: |
great idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have always used a dremmel like object as i dont have fullering tools. man thats a good idea im so excited ill have to steel your idea for sure :) :D :lol:
Wow, these are very interesting pieces:)
Is there a site online that could tell how to forge things such as these? I know I'll never be any good, but there's never any harm in picking up a new hobby:)
I have maille that I'm still working on. It's made with wire hangers since I'm a poor young man, but I'm kinda proud of it. I'll post pics soon when I get my camera working.
Is there a site online that could tell how to forge things such as these? I know I'll never be any good, but there's never any harm in picking up a new hobby:)
I have maille that I'm still working on. It's made with wire hangers since I'm a poor young man, but I'm kinda proud of it. I'll post pics soon when I get my camera working.
Well, I finally finished my third knife; my first double edged as well as my first partial tang piece. Looking back, I wish I had made the spine meet the top of the bolster, but oh well. Live and learn :)
This is completely hand done, using only files, a rasp, sandpaper, and a drill for the holes. The blade is around 3 inches long.
Stock removal
-Tool Steel
-Copper
-Brass
-Walnut
[ Linked Image ]
[ Linked Image ]
[ Linked Image ]
This is completely hand done, using only files, a rasp, sandpaper, and a drill for the holes. The blade is around 3 inches long.
Stock removal
-Tool Steel
-Copper
-Brass
-Walnut
[ Linked Image ]
[ Linked Image ]
[ Linked Image ]
I got tired of just practicing basic blacksmith techniques, and decided to try make an actual knife. The railroad spike was old and of unknown origin. Unfortunately, rockwell test indicated that it only hardened to Rc ~ 25. Oh well. That said, it is comfortable and workable, easily sharpened. The fire bluing worked reasonably well at making some pretty purple and red hues on the blade. The overall length is 8 inches, or about 200 mm as bent to make the grip comfortable in the hand.
I'll claim this as at least partial success since the shape and forging turned out pleasing, and I did not spark or burn up the steel at any point.
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I'll claim this as at least partial success since the shape and forging turned out pleasing, and I did not spark or burn up the steel at any point.
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Attachment: 25.22 KB
Here is a cutlass that I forged and am almost done with. I still need to temper and polish the blade and peen everything together.
Blade length: 25 7/8"
Overall length: 31"
Weight : 1lb 7oz
Thickness at base: 1/4"
Thickness at tip: 3/32"
Point of balance: 5"
Grip wood: Walnut
[/img]
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swords and scabbard
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Close up of shell guard
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Close up of grip
Blade length: 25 7/8"
Overall length: 31"
Weight : 1lb 7oz
Thickness at base: 1/4"
Thickness at tip: 3/32"
Point of balance: 5"
Grip wood: Walnut
[/img]
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swords and scabbard
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Close up of shell guard
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Close up of grip
nice sword Allen
i'm working on one myself
you can see the full page on how its made and the stats here
http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=16959
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i'm working on one myself
you can see the full page on how its made and the stats here
http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=16959
Attachment: 75.35 KB
I spent around 10 hours on a 50 lb hammer size Little Giant power hammer yesterday and burned up most of my clothing. (Came home with blisters all over from where the hot flux sizzled, went inside gloves and shoes while working.....etc. I just had to grimace and bear it since I did not want to ruin it after having spent so much time on a billet.) With a lot of help from the local blacksmiths guild I produced a 160 layer ladder pattern billet. (The local ABANA chapter president actually "patterned it" after I had produced the 5 folds and welds to get it to the point of 160 layers.) My local knife maker, Bob Levine, rough ground and etched a small fixed blade hunting style knife from it today in about 30 minutes time. So far, I am really pleased with my first experience in pattern welding. I will shop for some suitable handle scale materials this week. An apron for future work will be high up on my wish list of equipment to buy next.
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Hey Jared, beautiful blade!!! Are you working with the group over at Smokey Mountain Knife Works?
Ted Parolari wrote: |
Hey Jared, beautiful blade!!! Are you working with the group over at Smokey Mountain Knife Works? |
Thanks.
I meet with a smaller group (roughly 5 to 7 people on an average monthly meeting) located in the East-middle Tennessee area at McMinnville. (Work is inside a log cabin building!) Access to coal, forges, and the power hammer is a big plus. The ABANA groups seem to be incredibly generous with time, eagerness to teach, and patience. Several members brought equipment (propane forge, MIG welder, etc.) specifically just to help me succeed on this first pattern welding attempt. They would not normally put in such a long day, but, everyone stuck around to see the lesson and project finished properly.
Jared, I am not normally a fan of modern damascus knives (and even less of swords) but that patern combined with that blade shape is really nice. The blisters were totally worth it, nice job!
Nat Lamb wrote: |
Jared, I am not normally a fan of modern damascus knives (and even less of swords) but that patern combined with that blade shape is really nice. The blisters were totally worth it, nice job! |
Wow! Thanks. The war story seems worth it. With the quality of artisans here, receiving a compliment is a big deal to me!
I am interested in suggestions and opinions for the grip/handle scales. I have black - white streaked water buffalo horn scales and some Sambar stag horn ordered. Fossilized mammoth bark scales of good quality seem to be hard to find right now.
Jared, that sounds really cool!!! I wish I had the time to do something like that.
If you get to Sevierville at some point, stop in at the Smoky Mountain Knife Works. There is a Co-op like yours there, working out of a 200 year old or so building. You'll go right by it when you turn into SMKW's parking lot. Here is the website. http://www.kelgin.com/coopaboutnew.html I was fortunate enought to make a visit with my son's Cub Scout Troop and got to meet Ken Kelgin who runs the place and watch him in action making one of the railroad spikes into a knife. Really neat guy!
Best wishes!
Ted Parolari
A Fellow East Tennessean
If you get to Sevierville at some point, stop in at the Smoky Mountain Knife Works. There is a Co-op like yours there, working out of a 200 year old or so building. You'll go right by it when you turn into SMKW's parking lot. Here is the website. http://www.kelgin.com/coopaboutnew.html I was fortunate enought to make a visit with my son's Cub Scout Troop and got to meet Ken Kelgin who runs the place and watch him in action making one of the railroad spikes into a knife. Really neat guy!
Best wishes!
Ted Parolari
A Fellow East Tennessean
Hey Jared, you have a certain size of ivory you're looking for? I can get high quality, legal: Walrus ivory (fossilized and raw), and mammoth ivory and tooth. There's a warehouse just down the road with piles of the stuff. PM with what you're looking for and I can get you a price list and pics.
Michael B. wrote: |
Hey Jared, you have a certain size of ivory you're looking for? I can get high quality, legal: Walrus ivory (fossilized and raw), and mammoth ivory and tooth. There's a warehouse just down the road with piles of the stuff. PM with what you're looking for and I can get you a price list and pics. |
any idea if they can export that legally?
I've been wanting to do some bits of ivory - a Cinqueda, for one, and some walrus ivory grips/stuff for viking era bits of kit for ages.
and though it's not weapons-related...
http://3dfolio.com/jge/Folio%20Images/Coin_Scales_Replica.jpg
is a set of coin scales that I made, as a replica of an original set, dated to around 1603 and the union of the crowns. I'm rather a sucker for making stuff like that, and getting some Ivory/walrus would have me squeeing like a kid in a toyshop.
and sort of weapons related to keep it on subject:
[ Linked Image ]
Finished a waster this morning.
well... maybe a bit flash for a waster... more a posey waster, as I wanted to see how well one could end up looking.
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