Bruno Cerkuenik wrote: |
Hi,
Could anybody explain the difference between the grande-assiete and the later inset sleeve?? Thanks! |
Basically, it's a difference in how the sleeve is cut and fitted. Both require an armhole cut in the body of the garment such that the arm is fully out side the garment - that is, the whole ball and socket of the arm is in the sleeve not the garment. This is different to a modern suit cut, where the arm is partially inside the body of the garment. That's why, when you lift your arms in a suit it lifts the whole body of the jacket.
With the Grande Assiete, the sleeve starts as a simple rectangular tube. This is then fitted to the body of the garment. Additional panels are added (and parts of the sleeve removed) until the body and sleeve fit the form of the wearer completely, and allow full movement. To achieve this, the body of the garment must be cut away rather drastically (leaving a large, round hole - perhaps hence 'grand assiette' - big plate!) The sleeve head becomes very big - look at images of the Revival garment and you will see the large triangular panels at the pectorals.
The later, inset sleeve demands more pattern cutting skills. The head of the sleeve is shaped prior to being fitted, so doesn't need so much fitting to the body of the wearer, yet still retains a large degree of movement (although not as much as the grande assiete sleeve)
Hope this helps