Posts: 9,555 Location: Dayton, OH
Mon 07 Nov, 2011 8:03 am
I'm with Bill on this one. If you want to learn a historical art, use a tool that closely approximates (or matches) a historical one. I'm not a trained martial artist, but my experience shows that martial techniques and weapon durability go hand in hand. For me, this means using good techniques means the sword has a lesser chance of being damaged. And using a good sword means the techniques are easier to accomplish. If someone needs an overly-durable sword, it raises questions about how correct their techniques and usage are.
Of course, the OP is talking about using these against armoured people in a non-lethal situation (we all hope), so that changes things a little bit (but not as much as some would have you believe).
However, if you want to learn to paint like Rembrandt, don't use a roller and/or spraypaint and expect it to work. Use materials (paint, brushes) that get as close to what he used as modern markets, manufacturing techniques, and budgets allow. Otherwise, you'll have a lot of trouble replicating his techniques and results. Right tool for the right job, etc.
As to this point:
Quote: |
Too be honest, I really don't see it as economically responsible to use an Albion for WMA when you can potentially break it. They are just too expensive to be anything but display swords, but at that point I see it as somewhat pointless to go to such lengths for accurate weight. |
As has been mentioned, any sword can break, especially if improper techniques and circumstances are used. My Albions have been cut with numerous time and have performed great. In addition to cutting the materials I've tried to cut (melons, pumpkins, pool noodles, etc.), I've also inadvertently hit cement pavers, PVC pipe, and a 2 x 10 board with them. No damage. The only damage a sword of mine has received is when it was knocked over and fell hard against another blade. This was the equivalent of a static, edge-on-edge dead stop block between two very sharp blades. It got knicked, as you'd except any sharp sword to do in the same situation in battle. In fact, the knick looked exactly the same as the knicks you see on the edges of period swords. It's why you should avoid static edge on edge blocks (not looking for debate on that subject right now!), but should try to parry properly. In short, it was damaged because of carelessness that approximated the results of bad technique; it wasn't damaged because of proper use.
Again it all goes back to how closely someone wants to replicate historical techniques with arms and armour. If accuracy of weapon and technique are no concern at all, buy what appeals to you.
It shouldn't be surprising that many people on this forum (billed at the top of every page as "A Resource for Historic Arms and Armour Collectors") prefer historical things. It shouldn't be a surprise that many people here will push people toward historical things and away from things that deviate strongly from historical norms.