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Chuck Friend




Location: Iowa
Joined: 25 Nov 2016

Posts: 2

PostPosted: Mon 30 Jan, 2017 9:04 pm    Post subject: Armor care         Reply with quote

What is the best polish to use on a 16-gauge mild steel plate suit of armor? I have used many different things and always keep it wiped with Rem Oil after each wear. But is there something to restore the shine? Thanks in advance for the answers.
I am Chuck Friend - a teaching knight - performer/educator (Herr Karl 15th Century German Knight) from Conrad, Iowa
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Mark Moore




Location: East backwoods-assed Texas
Joined: 01 Oct 2003
Likes: 6 pages
Reading list: 1 book

Posts: 2,218

PostPosted: Tue 31 Jan, 2017 6:09 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I've had good luck with plain ol' Turtle Wax on my polished pieces. Don't use too much, or it'll gunk up around rivets, etc. You'll find yourself digging it out with a toothpick. The rest of my armor is darkened, so a wipe-down with Nevr-Dull does the trick for it. Someone else may have a better suggestion. Happy .....McM
''Life is like a box of chocolates...'' --- F. Gump
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Terry Thompson




Location: Suburbs of Wash D.C.
Joined: 17 Sep 2010

Posts: 139

PostPosted: Sun 05 Feb, 2017 6:30 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I have a lot of metal in my house and it depends on the degree of oxidation. For mild discoloration and to remove finger prints or surface scratches I use Blue Magic metal polish. It's available in the automotive parts-supply stores like Pep Boys and Advanced Auto. It will also remove actual rust if you apply some actual elbow grease. But if the rusting is over a large area or severe, I use a series of scrubby pads and fine emory paper (going coarse to fine and eventually finishing with the same polish).
It also leaves a minimal protective coat of silicone on the surface of the metal retarding future rust for handling or humidity.


For long time storage, or if it's going to be outside for any period, I use spray grease such as Blaster Corrosion Stop (made by the same company that makes PB Blaster liquid penetrant). Corrosion stop is a light grease that you can wipe over the surface. This is also available in auto parts suppliers and home centers.


I once did a week-long event in the woods and had a helmet that was coated with Corrosion stop. I had left the helmet sitting in the grass over-night. The next morning, due to heavy humidity and temperature swings, the dew had rusted everyone's mild steel armor, but my helmet was still shiny. The dew beaded-up on the surface and I was able to wipe it down with a rag before any rust could take hold.
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James Arlen Gillaspie
Industry Professional



Location: upstate NY
Joined: 10 Nov 2005

Posts: 520

PostPosted: Sun 05 Feb, 2017 9:07 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Simoniz car wax for long term display, Autosol (best all around metal polish I know of, and I've tried a few) for removing oxidation, Fluid Film to protect for field use. There's a thread over on the Armour Archive that compares various rust inhibitors on mail.
jamesarlen.com
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Lafayette C Curtis




Location: Indonesia
Joined: 29 Nov 2006
Reading list: 7 books

Posts: 2,689

PostPosted: Mon 17 Apr, 2017 8:23 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

It all depends on how much time and effort you're willing to spend in maintaining the finish. A mirror finish has always been very labour-intensive to achieve, whether historically or today.
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Ben Joy




Location: Missouri
Joined: 21 May 2010
Likes: 1 page

Posts: 91

PostPosted: Mon 17 Apr, 2017 9:21 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I personally use the same stuff on my -metal- armor that I use on my guns. I will use Never Dull to remove any oxidation/rusting and give the metal a good sound cleaning. Afterwards, or for just routine oiling, I'll wipe down the weapons/armor with 3-in-1 oil or if I have any I'll use military CLP gun oil (which basically has the same formula, but is a bit more "industrial grade"). That stuff will leave a light coating of oil behind that does a fantastic job of protecting the metal and preventing future rust/oxidation.

Regardless, all of the polishes and care products people have listed so far are great to use. You could pretty much pick from the lot and see what you personally like the best.

"Men take only their needs into consideration, never their abilities." -Napoleon Bonaparte
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Mark Moore




Location: East backwoods-assed Texas
Joined: 01 Oct 2003
Likes: 6 pages
Reading list: 1 book

Posts: 2,218

PostPosted: Fri 28 Apr, 2017 6:29 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

It shouldn't. I've never had any issues like that. Happy ...McM
''Life is like a box of chocolates...'' --- F. Gump
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Ben Joy




Location: Missouri
Joined: 21 May 2010
Likes: 1 page

Posts: 91

PostPosted: Fri 28 Apr, 2017 11:49 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Daniel Roy wrote:
Is car wax polish ok for cleaning it ? Will it cause any kind of reaction or oxidation ??


No, it shouldn't be a problem. The point is also making sure you're using the right care products for the right materials. You're not using the car wax, CLP, Never-Dull, etc. on any leather fittings on your armors (or if it's just flat out leather armor). As long as you're doing that everything should be fine.

It is worth noting, though, that you don't want to just leave any metal polish residue on your leather elements as that may cause issues depending on what you're using (like a car wax that specifically says to NOT get it on leather). Be careful with what you're using and where it ends up. Also, don't forget to take care of the leather portions of your armor, or you might find your leather dry-rotting and harness straps/ties just falling right off.

While I realize the OP is asking about specifically the metal portion of armor, don't forget to take care of all of the non-metal parts, like your -likely- leather straps and harness points. For said leather portions of the armor I'll use saddle-soap for cleaning and some good-old Kiwi leather polish to restore shine and color if needed (especially my more fantasy-based leather armor). I normally clean the leather portions of armor first, and then the metal, as the leather parts usually include the use of a little water. It's easier/safer to polish and clean the metal afterwards while just wiping away anything that gets on the leather, because having to wipe leather polish or saddle-soap off of your metal armor is going to likely strip the wax and/or oils you just applied to it.

"Men take only their needs into consideration, never their abilities." -Napoleon Bonaparte
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Mark Moore




Location: East backwoods-assed Texas
Joined: 01 Oct 2003
Likes: 6 pages
Reading list: 1 book

Posts: 2,218

PostPosted: Fri 28 Apr, 2017 12:29 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Yup....Just what Ben said! Wink I neglected to say anything about leather strapping. I find it best to treat the leather parts *before* waxing, letting them dry. Getting that stuff on the steel is kinda defeating the purpose. Happy ....McM
''Life is like a box of chocolates...'' --- F. Gump
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Daniel Sullivan




Location: California
Joined: 02 Apr 2004
Likes: 9 pages
Reading list: 3 books

Posts: 201

PostPosted: Fri 28 Apr, 2017 6:23 pm    Post subject: Armor Care         Reply with quote

Do agree with others, have found paste wax to do the job admirably. It is extremely easy to maintain, re-coat, etc. Certainly a lot better than any type of clear coat. Will not ruin the cloth portions of your kit, and a few other miracles things as yet undiscovered.

The secret is start with a clean surface, no metal polish residue, no oil, etc, (CLEAN). Don't get looped in with cleaner/wax/ polish junk, they just encapsulate the gunge and as soon as a bit of O2 hits, the cycle starts again. Friend Mark is correct about "stuff" around the rivet heads and nooks and crannies, old tooth brushes are ideal for these areas.

For leather, there are a variety of product that work well, saddle soap, etc. I use neats foot (or mink oil), the leather darkens a little bit, but the strapplng is as supple as a "wet rag" ....

Regards,
Dan
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