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Kuo Xie




Location: Chicago, IL
Joined: 29 Feb 2012

Posts: 76

PostPosted: Tue 03 Feb, 2015 7:56 am    Post subject: Proper way to attach a mail gusset         Reply with quote

Hello, I am tailoring my riveted hauberk for a closer fit and I'm running into some trouble with the gussets. In the past I have worn butted costume hauberks which always fall apart at the armpit because the motion of lifting the arms places a lot of strain on the area, so I want to be sure I do this right. The rough time period I'm going for is late 13th century Central Europe. Here are the methods I am going to try out, please excuse the crude diagrams, I'm not much of an artist:

1)


2)


3)


The red lines represent the rows of mail. Which of these methods will produce the best fit, durability and mobility? I would appreciate help from the pro and hobby armorers on the board.
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Mart Shearer




Location: Jackson, MS, USA
Joined: 18 Aug 2012

Posts: 1,268

PostPosted: Tue 03 Feb, 2015 10:44 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Method 2 most closely approximates medieval European practice, where the expansion is in the sleeve (or the sleeve contracts towards the elbow). This is joined with a 90 degree join. I have seen Method 3 in Indo-Persian mail.

Failure to expand over the shoulders and shoulder-blades also causes tension in the arm. The back should be wider than the front of the body so that the sleeves cant forward.

These links provide plenty of useful images.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/fa...tm#sect4-2
http://www.themailresearchsociety.erikds.com/pdf/tmrs_pdf_3.pdf
http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB3/viewto...ail+sleeve

ferrum ferro acuitur et homo exacuit faciem amici sui
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Kuo Xie




Location: Chicago, IL
Joined: 29 Feb 2012

Posts: 76

PostPosted: Tue 03 Feb, 2015 11:13 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Mart Shearer wrote:
Method 2 most closely approximates medieval European practice, where the expansion is in the sleeve (or the sleeve contracts towards the elbow). This is joined with a 90 degree join. I have seen Method 3 in Indo-Persian mail.

Failure to expand over the shoulders and shoulder-blades also causes tension in the arm. The back should be wider than the front of the body so that the sleeves cant forward.

These links provide plenty of useful images.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/fa...tm#sect4-2
http://www.themailresearchsociety.erikds.com/pdf/tmrs_pdf_3.pdf
http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB3/viewto...ail+sleeve


Thanks for the very helpful reply, I especilly like the sleeve tailoring explanations in the third link. My hauberk front is the same width as the back, but I 've placed a 6-ring diamond expansion between the shoulder blades to help with that problem. I'll see how that wears before making more alterations.

Here another method I've also been thinking about, let's call it 2a)

My thought is this way the gusset will hang down more when the arm is down, and not bunch up in the armpit.
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