Info Favorites Register Log in
myArmoury.com Discussion Forums

Forum index Memberlist Usergroups Spotlight Topics Search


Please help our efforts with a donation. This site requires ongoing funding and your donations are crucial to our future.
Last 10 Donors: Anonymous, Daniel Sullivan, Chad Arnow, Mateusz S., J.D. Crawford, Eric S, Håvard Kongsrud, Jakub Malovany, M. Livermore, Tim Mathews (View All Donors)

Forum Index > Off-topic Talk > Looking for a supplier for wool for hosen Reply to topic
This is a standard topic Go to page 1, 2  Next 
Author Message
Sander Marechal




Location: The Netherlands
Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Reading list: 17 books

Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 671

PostPosted: Wed 16 Mar, 2011 4:47 pm    Post subject: Looking for a supplier for wool for hosen         Reply with quote

Hi all. Our reenactment group needs to make about 10 pair of hosen. We thought we had a supplier for wool, but unfortunately they are unable to deliver what we need anymore. That's a bit of a bummer because we spent ages finding a local supplier. We've collected dozens of samples from local shops but almost nobody was able to deliver what we need.

So, I'm expanding our search. Preferably I would like a supplier from The Nertherlands or at least Europe (for VAT and shipping reasons) but I'll go overseas if I need to.

I'm looking for a decent quality woven wool suitable for making 13th century hosen. Colour: off-white, natural white, something like that. Our current budget is about 35 Euro per meter but it's flexible. Can anyone recommend me a few good suppliers?

Thanks in advance!

The Knights Hospitaller: http://www.hospitaalridders.nl
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Jack W. Englund




Location: WA State
Joined: 17 Sep 2007
Reading list: 6 books

Posts: 186

PostPosted: Wed 16 Mar, 2011 5:46 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

You say "woven".( as in "cloth") do you mean "spun yarn" ???
View user's profile Send private message
Sander Marechal




Location: The Netherlands
Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Reading list: 17 books

Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 671

PostPosted: Wed 16 Mar, 2011 5:51 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jack W. Englund wrote:
You say "woven".( as in "cloth") do you mean "spun yarn" ???


Not sure, can you elaborate? With woven I mean that it has threads that cross at right angles, instead of the machine-knitted fabric formed of small loops (which is what 95% of the wool that I can get at the shops here is).

The Knights Hospitaller: http://www.hospitaalridders.nl
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Jack W. Englund




Location: WA State
Joined: 17 Sep 2007
Reading list: 6 books

Posts: 186

PostPosted: Wed 16 Mar, 2011 6:17 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sander Marechal wrote:
Jack W. Englund wrote:
You say "woven".( as in "cloth") do you mean "spun yarn" ???


Not sure, can you elaborate? With woven I mean that it has threads that cross at right angles, instead of the machine-knitted fabric formed of small loops (which is what 95% of the wool that I can get at the shops here is).


OK, you mean "cloth" woven on a loom, ( like used for shirts, kilts, pants trews etc ???) If so check the UK mills. Some produce light wt. wool cloth that may work.. Also, you might think Linen. ( period correct ) or cotton if wealthy..

Jack
View user's profile Send private message
Christian G. Cameron




Location: Toronto, Canada
Joined: 07 Dec 2009
Likes: 13 pages
Reading list: 4 books

Posts: 193

PostPosted: Wed 16 Mar, 2011 6:59 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

cotton hose? Really? in the 13th c?

Anyway, for wool, try William Booth in the USA. And way under your 35 Euro a meter.

http://www.wmboothdraper.com/

Christian G. Cameron

Qui plus fait, miex vault

www.hippeis.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Jack W. Englund




Location: WA State
Joined: 17 Sep 2007
Reading list: 6 books

Posts: 186

PostPosted: Wed 16 Mar, 2011 7:15 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Christian G. Cameron wrote:
cotton hose? Really? in the 13th c?



Hose = ?? but the fabric - YEP = Arab traders introduced fine cotton fabrics to Italy and Spain the in 1st century, and the Moors brought cotton production to Spain in the 9th century.
The elite imported silk cloth from the Byzantine, and later Muslim worlds, and also cotton. They also could afford bleached linen and dyed and simply patterned wool woven in ( cotton fabrics were more expensive than silk )

Jack
View user's profile Send private message
Mikael Ranelius




Location: Sweden
Joined: 06 Mar 2007

Posts: 252

PostPosted: Thu 17 Mar, 2011 1:37 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Handelsgillet (Sweden):

http://handelsgillet.se/shop/index.php/langua...a7tefbs8s2

They carry a wide range of 100% woollen fabrics including a light twill that I find very suitable for hosen.

Another recommendable Swedish supplier is Medeltidsmode, I know that they do ship to the rest of Europe but unfortunately their webshop seems to be in Swedish only. Still though you might want to check out their 100% woolen fabrics: www.medeltidsmode.se/
View user's profile Send private message
Sander Marechal




Location: The Netherlands
Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Reading list: 17 books

Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 671

PostPosted: Thu 17 Mar, 2011 1:41 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks for the suggestions so far. Cotton won't do, it needs to be wool. There's an inventory list for a Hospitaller that specifically states white woolen hosen. Besides that, cotton would have been far too expensive (if it was already available in the 13th century).

I've contacted WM. Booth Draper about samples.

The Knights Hospitaller: http://www.hospitaalridders.nl
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Viktor Abrahamson




Location: Sweden
Joined: 07 Aug 2008
Likes: 2 pages

Posts: 74

PostPosted: Thu 17 Mar, 2011 2:01 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Another swedish maker is
http://www.agirshus.com/
also only swedish.

Look under "Tyger"

Great quality handmade stuff.

/Viktor
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Glennan Carnie




Location: UK
Joined: 23 Aug 2006

Posts: 289

PostPosted: Thu 17 Mar, 2011 2:07 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Try:

Bernie the Bolt (contact details here: http://www.calltoarms.com/bolt/)

Tudor Tailor (http://www.tudortailor.com/woolshop.shtml)

Stuart Peachey (http://www.stuart-hmaltd.com/historical_fabrics.php)

Time Warp Textiles (http://www.aidan-campbell.co.uk/textiles.htm)
View user's profile Send private message
Sander Marechal




Location: The Netherlands
Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Reading list: 17 books

Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 671

PostPosted: Thu 17 Mar, 2011 2:54 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks, those are some good links, and UK too (so, no added VAT!).

One thing I wonder about though. I see many selling widths of 75cm or 91cm. Presumably these are historic loom widths. But how did medieval people get a pair of hosen out of these? I understand that they have to come out of the fabric diagonally because of the bias. I drew up a pattern, based on the largest guy in our group, but I think I need at least 100cm fabric width. Is our big guy just "too big" or is there some other trick to getting hosen out of such smaller width fabric?

The Knights Hospitaller: http://www.hospitaalridders.nl
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Christian G. Cameron




Location: Toronto, Canada
Joined: 07 Dec 2009
Likes: 13 pages
Reading list: 4 books

Posts: 193

PostPosted: Thu 17 Mar, 2011 4:32 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Draper's textiles should all be 60 inches wide--150 CM.
Christian G. Cameron

Qui plus fait, miex vault

www.hippeis.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Glennan Carnie




Location: UK
Joined: 23 Aug 2006

Posts: 289

PostPosted: Thu 17 Mar, 2011 6:24 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

The Tudor tailor's cloth, and most of the cloth sold by Bernie, is 150cm.

Bernie's cloth, although not (quite) the same quality as the others (and it's not far off) is typically around 10GBP per metre - so your pennies go a fair bit further.

A couple of pictures of Bernie's typical stock, taken from the recent International Living History fair:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=101501...mp;theater
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=101501...mp;theater

Typically I'd budget 2.5m of 150cm wide cloth for bias-cut joined hose (I'm 190cm tall); or be prepared to piece the cloth.
View user's profile Send private message
Sander Marechal




Location: The Netherlands
Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Reading list: 17 books

Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 671

PostPosted: Thu 17 Mar, 2011 9:58 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

2.5 meter?! I came up way shorter, see the image below. Is my pattern flawed?

Hmm... perhaps I should first try to make a pair out of some leftover linen muslin I have around here...



This was based off the measurements of our tallest guy, using this tutorial (dutch). Note that these are fot hosen without feet.

PS: I can't view the pictures. It requires a facebook login unfortunately.

The Knights Hospitaller: http://www.hospitaalridders.nl
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Chuck Russell




Location: WV
Joined: 17 Aug 2004
Reading list: 46 books

Posts: 936

PostPosted: Thu 17 Mar, 2011 10:10 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jack W. Englund wrote:
Christian G. Cameron wrote:
cotton hose? Really? in the 13th c?



Hose = ?? but the fabric - YEP = Arab traders introduced fine cotton fabrics to Italy and Spain the in 1st century, and the Moors brought cotton production to Spain in the 9th century.
The elite imported silk cloth from the Byzantine, and later Muslim worlds, and also cotton. They also could afford bleached linen and dyed and simply patterned wool woven in ( cotton fabrics were more expensive than silk )

Jack


i dont know of any cotton in any clothing descriptions. i know cotton was used in drapes and curtains in the Mediterranean areas but not as clothing in the mid to northern Europe
View user's profile Send private message Yahoo Messenger MSN Messenger
Nathan Beal





Joined: 02 Apr 2006

Posts: 68

PostPosted: Thu 17 Mar, 2011 7:40 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I'll be absoluteley honest with you cutting on the bias isn't as necessary as people will claim for early period hose (the sort that do not enclose the buttocks) as long as you are making them out of wool (and it is not densely fulled).

In place of cutting on the bias you could use a 2/2 twill cloth this is naturally stretchy (very much like cutting on the bias). Given period loom-widths i strongly suspect this is how hose were being made through the C15th

Stuart Peachey does a lovely natural white 2/2 twill and it does make a nice pair of hose. It's not cheap and it is on the heavier side (try bernie for lightweight cloth if heat is a concern) but i have a pair i made of that stuff a fair few years back that do the trick nicely.

HTH
N

Beware of dragons, for you are crunchy and good with ketchup.
View user's profile Send private message
Glennan Carnie




Location: UK
Joined: 23 Aug 2006

Posts: 289

PostPosted: Fri 18 Mar, 2011 2:31 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sander Marechal wrote:
2.5 meter?! I came up way shorter, see the image below. Is my pattern flawed?

Hmm... perhaps I should first try to make a pair out of some leftover linen muslin I have around here...



This was based off the measurements of our tallest guy, using this tutorial (dutch). Note that these are fot hosen without feet.

PS: I can't view the pictures. It requires a facebook login unfortunately.


Sander,

That measurement was for joined, bias-cut hose; not simple single-leg. The extra material required to cover the top of the legs, waist and buttocks means you have to use a lot more material (and waste more cloth). Typically, under 2m is plenty for single-leg hose for me.

Normally I lay out the hose to make use of the selvedge of the cloth for the top of the hose. I believe this has been found in extant hose (I'd have to go and search for which ones, though!). This style also allows you to get bias cut hose on narrower cloth. It does give a deeper drop at the back of the leg but in practice I've not noticed this to be a problem.





Apologies about the facebook links. Here are the images:


View user's profile Send private message
Sander Marechal




Location: The Netherlands
Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Reading list: 17 books

Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 671

PostPosted: Fri 18 Mar, 2011 4:28 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice everyone! I will let you know how it goes.
The Knights Hospitaller: http://www.hospitaalridders.nl
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Anders Kramer




Location: Denmark
Joined: 16 Feb 2006

Posts: 44

PostPosted: Fri 18 Mar, 2011 3:35 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

www.wollstoff.de

They have several different types of wool, linens and silks. And the dye it for you as well. natural dyed wool is possible to get for less than €35 from Wollstoff.
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
Sam Gordon Campbell




Location: Australia.
Joined: 16 Nov 2008

Posts: 677

PostPosted: Sat 19 Mar, 2011 2:58 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

As I read this thread, I am filled with woe, for living in Australia I know not where to go Sad
Member of Australia's Stoccata School of Defence since 2008.
Host of Crash Course HEMA.
Founder of The Van Dieman's Land Stage Gladiators.
View user's profile Send private message


Display posts from previous:   
Forum Index > Off-topic Talk > Looking for a supplier for wool for hosen
Page 1 of 2 Reply to topic
Go to page 1, 2  Next All times are GMT - 8 Hours

View previous topic :: View next topic
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum






All contents © Copyright 2003-2018 myArmoury.com — All rights reserved
Discussion forums powered by phpBB © The phpBB Group
Switch to the Basic Low-bandwidth Version of the forum