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Rene Bourrat




Location: Perpignan, France
Joined: 07 Jun 2010

Posts: 33

PostPosted: Tue 17 Aug, 2010 12:22 pm    Post subject: Take care of a blade during a cutting session         Reply with quote

Hello,
I want to use my sword to cut light targets, but I am afraid of damaging it. If someone have experience of daily cut, please help me to keep my blade all its beauty. Happy

How do you take care of your blade when you cut bottles, mats and other targets? Do you oil the blade just before the session? Do you wipe it between every blow?
Does bamboo or wet mats leave heavy traces on the steel? How do you remove them?

Thank you very much.

Win the war in your head. That's what the wise lady said!
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Michael Edelson




Location: New York
Joined: 14 Sep 2005

Spotlight topics: 2
Posts: 1,032

PostPosted: Tue 17 Aug, 2010 12:30 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

First, you have to accept that you're going to scratch the sword. They will be light surface scuffs if you only cut proper targets, but they'll be there.

I clean my sword after every mat (or multiple mats if I have them set up at the same time). I use WD40, spray it heavily on the blade, and wipe off with paper towels. This is to remove the shcmutz that tatami leaves on the surface and to displace the water from the wet mats.

After I'm done cutting for the day, I wipe down the blade to dry it, apply my usual oil (Breakfree CLP or Remoil), wipe that thoroughly into the blade and fittings and then I put the sword away.

New York Historical Fencing Association
www.newyorklongsword.com

Byakkokan Dojo
http://newyorkbattodo.com/
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JE Sarge
Industry Professional



PostPosted: Tue 17 Aug, 2010 12:39 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

While cutting, I try to shake the excess water from the blade so it does not run down into the guard / grip. I cut until I am finished for the day, then oil the sword before putting it away. I wipe down all the furniture with a gun/reel cloth after any handling. If I mar my blade, I have plenty of ultra-fine grit sandpaper and both grey and green Scotchbrite pads that will buff out any markings - depending on the finish of the blade. I also keep a little fine / xfine steel wool on hand for any touching up. Happy
J.E. Sarge
Crusader Monk Sword Scabbards and Customizations
www.crusadermonk.com

"But lack of documentation, especially for such early times, is not to be considered as evidence of non-existance." - Ewart Oakeshott
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Rene Bourrat




Location: Perpignan, France
Joined: 07 Jun 2010

Posts: 33

PostPosted: Wed 18 Aug, 2010 11:38 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thank you. I will try first with bottles and use WD40 to protect the guard and grip. Ah and I remember it's the season for melons... That's not a honorable way to use a sword but it could be funny and a good opportunity for a garden party Razz

I hope that this light targets will not let too much scratches on the blade. I have grey pads and Ballistol, but in the light I can see old salted dewdrop on my blade that I wasn't able to remove.
I will see...

Win the war in your head. That's what the wise lady said!
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Jean Thibodeau




Location: Montreal,Quebec,Canada
Joined: 15 Mar 2004
Likes: 50 pages
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Spotlight topics: 5
Posts: 8,192

PostPosted: Thu 19 Aug, 2010 9:09 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Rene Bourrat wrote:
Thank you. I will try first with bottles and use WD40 to protect the guard and grip. Ah and I remember it's the season for melons... That's not a honorable way to use a sword but it could be funny and a good opportunity for a garden party Razz

I hope that this light targets will not let too much scratches on the blade. I have grey pads and Ballistol, but in the light I can see old salted dewdrop on my blade that I wasn't able to remove.
I will see...


Gun oil is better for rust protection as WD40 tends to just evaporate. WD40 may be good enough for cleaning but rust prevention is not so great, the gun oils can leave a very protective film and some can even leave a dry film that won't attract dust.

You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Michael Edelson




Location: New York
Joined: 14 Sep 2005

Spotlight topics: 2
Posts: 1,032

PostPosted: Thu 19 Aug, 2010 9:37 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jean Thibodeau wrote:
Rene Bourrat wrote:
Thank you. I will try first with bottles and use WD40 to protect the guard and grip. Ah and I remember it's the season for melons... That's not a honorable way to use a sword but it could be funny and a good opportunity for a garden party Razz

I hope that this light targets will not let too much scratches on the blade. I have grey pads and Ballistol, but in the light I can see old salted dewdrop on my blade that I wasn't able to remove.
I will see...


Gun oil is better for rust protection as WD40 tends to just evaporate. WD40 may be good enough for cleaning but rust prevention is not so great, the gun oils can leave a very protective film and some can even leave a dry film that won't attract dust.


Yes, and the best "oil" for protecting swords is Breakfree CLP. The second best and close runner up is Remoil. WD-40 is so worthless as a rust preventative I use it in place of water to clean blades during cutting.

New York Historical Fencing Association
www.newyorklongsword.com

Byakkokan Dojo
http://newyorkbattodo.com/
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