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Etienne Hamel




Location: Granby (QC) canada
Joined: 09 Sep 2006

Posts: 428

PostPosted: Wed 11 Jun, 2008 11:07 am    Post subject: sword handle measurements and crossguard info         Reply with quote

ok, i have a problem for my project.
my problem is that i realised just now that i could do a crossguard easily with a square rod, but to make it simple i would cut it in half and split the end of my two parts and wield them together to make this crossguard.
i wanted to know if it is secure or not.

Because of it i have headaches so a little help would be appreciated.


Last edited by Etienne Hamel on Wed 11 Jun, 2008 11:10 am; edited 1 time in total
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Etienne Hamel




Location: Granby (QC) canada
Joined: 09 Sep 2006

Posts: 428

PostPosted: Wed 11 Jun, 2008 11:09 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

sorry for the post thats one of the problem but the other was that i wanted to know what are the measurements of the handles for a one handed sword.
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Anders Backlund




Location: Sweden
Joined: 24 Oct 2007

Posts: 629

PostPosted: Wed 11 Jun, 2008 3:50 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Etienne Hamel wrote:
ok, i have a problem for my project.
my problem is that i realised just now that i could do a crossguard easily with a square rod, but to make it simple i would cut it in half and split the end of my two parts and wield them together to make this crossguard.
i wanted to know if it is secure or not.

Because of it i have headaches so a little help would be appreciated.


I don't know much about the durability of welds, but to me this sounds like one of those "sounds simple is theory but isn't in practice" kind of things.

Me, I'd rather take a slightly larger piece, drill and file the slot for the tang, and then grind it down to the appropriate shape. It's not an ideal method, but it has worked for me in the past.

Etienne Hamel wrote:
sorry for the post thats one of the problem but the other was that i wanted to know what are the measurements of the handles for a one handed sword.


Preferably, enough to fit one hand. Razz

But seriously, it depends on what feels right for the sword and for you.

The sword is an ode to the strife of mankind.

"This doesn't look easy... but I bet it is!"
-Homer Simpson.


Last edited by Anders Backlund on Wed 11 Jun, 2008 3:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Antal László




Location: Lymington, Hampshire, UK
Joined: 16 Sep 2006
Reading list: 1 book

Posts: 98

PostPosted: Wed 11 Jun, 2008 3:51 pm    Post subject: Re: sword handle measurements and crossguard info         Reply with quote

Hello!
What kind/period sword would you like to make? About the grip length, look at for example the reviews of the albion swords. If the author did not give the length of the grip, then on the base of the given measurement you can calculate the length.

About the crossguard, for what purpose do you want the sword? I think it could be done, if the welding is properly made, but in my oppinion it would be easier to make a slot in the middle of the guard, using a drill and small files.

Good luck!
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Etienne Hamel




Location: Granby (QC) canada
Joined: 09 Sep 2006

Posts: 428

PostPosted: Wed 11 Jun, 2008 3:59 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

the style of sword i want to make is like a wheel pommeled sword with a twisted crossguard but it would be twisted only after the weld.
for the thing i wanted to explain for the visual persons on this site its like if you wield two ''Y'' together by the ''V'' section

if you want to ask me some question about my project go for it folks!
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Etienne Hamel




Location: Granby (QC) canada
Joined: 09 Sep 2006

Posts: 428

PostPosted: Wed 11 Jun, 2008 4:10 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Another point for the guard. i wanted to explain more what i wanted to say about it, the way it works in my head is that u need to cut two pieces of square metal bars and make a ''Y'' with them by making a cutting line, heating the metal pieces and separate it with a ''V'' shaped metal object. lastly wield the two prarts together and here it is but if its not secure then i shall not do this thats why i made this topic.
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Jean Thibodeau




Location: Montreal,Quebec,Canada
Joined: 15 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Wed 11 Jun, 2008 4:20 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Etienne Hamel wrote:
the style of sword i want to make is like a wheel pommeled sword with a twisted crossguard but it would be twisted only after the weld.
for the thing i wanted to explain for the visual persons on this site its like if you wield two ''Y'' together by the ''V'' section

if you want to ask me some question about my project go for it folks!


Which would be hard to do as the open middle will then to twist more easily and the solid ends.

To twist would would have to heat one end at a time and just twist the heated part leaving the middle in it's original square section and then drill/file the slot to fit the tang and the shoulders of the blade slightly recessed into the guard.

You would have to get the steel to forging heat or very close to it to be able to twist the ends I think.

You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Etienne Hamel




Location: Granby (QC) canada
Joined: 09 Sep 2006

Posts: 428

PostPosted: Wed 11 Jun, 2008 6:54 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

and if i use a vise at the tang hole place will it work?

i dont need to heat the rod if i have the same thing we had in school (some kind of bar with a square hole in it)
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Antal László




Location: Lymington, Hampshire, UK
Joined: 16 Sep 2006
Reading list: 1 book

Posts: 98

PostPosted: Thu 12 Jun, 2008 2:36 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Etienne Hamel wrote:
Another point for the guard. i wanted to explain more what i wanted to say about it, the way it works in my head is that u need to cut two pieces of square metal bars and make a ''Y'' with them by making a cutting line, heating the metal pieces and separate it with a ''V'' shaped metal object. lastly wield the two prarts together and here it is but if its not secure then i shall not do this thats why i made this topic.


So you have access to equipment for heating steel?

Do you want to use the sword for reenactment combat or for decoration? As I told, I think it is possible to make the guard that way, if the welding is done properly, but I don't understand why do you want to make it this way. It is easier and also safer to make the slot by drilling and filing.



Etienne Hamel wrote:
i dont need to heat the rod if i have the same thing we had in school (some kind of bar with a square hole in it)


Some kind of bar with a square hole in it? What's that?
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Antal László




Location: Lymington, Hampshire, UK
Joined: 16 Sep 2006
Reading list: 1 book

Posts: 98

PostPosted: Thu 12 Jun, 2008 2:48 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Do you have in mind something like this?


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Bren O




Location: Western Australia
Joined: 14 Sep 2006
Likes: 2 pages

Posts: 24

PostPosted: Thu 12 Jun, 2008 4:01 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

May I chime in. If you want the option of securing the hilt with a second hand at times, consider making the grip 12cm long. My hands are 9cm wide, and I find that a 12cm grip allows me a secure two handed grip when I need to, obviously that includes the pommel. If you want to make a light sword that will only ever be held with one hand, maybe go as little as 9.5 - 10cm.

As far as the guard, machinery helps. I suggest drilling a row of suitably sized holes, and joining them up using a dremel and square file.

As far as welds, I'm no expert, and don't trust my own welding. However if it's done by a professional with the right equipment it may hold. But you'd be butt welding and grinding off all the steel around the join which is holding it, so I don't think you'd have much strength left. Unless you are a good forge welder??

I'd go with the slot. Keep asking if you need any further advice. Good luck.

First, learn to use this...
It'll teach you to use this.
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Etienne Hamel




Location: Granby (QC) canada
Joined: 09 Sep 2006

Posts: 428

PostPosted: Thu 12 Jun, 2008 5:34 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

this winter i made a crossguard but it was not what i wanted it looked ugly... and most of all i was not able to do a satin finish with it. but if im going to the place i made my axe it could be good just taking a 1cm thick plate and cutting it with the plasma torch.. it could probably work.

and i have a wheel pommel here in my house but its a treaded one and the hole is not enough deep so i need to do another on the machine. i dont know what kind of wheel pommel to do so...
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Bren O




Location: Western Australia
Joined: 14 Sep 2006
Likes: 2 pages

Posts: 24

PostPosted: Thu 12 Jun, 2008 7:12 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Here's a few I knocked out the other day on the lathe, for inspiration. Not too hard. You got a plasma cutter? sweeet. Gotta get one of those. I just destroyed yet another angle grinder cutting out swords.

First, learn to use this...
It'll teach you to use this.
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Jean Thibodeau




Location: Montreal,Quebec,Canada
Joined: 15 Mar 2004
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Reading list: 1 book

Spotlight topics: 5
Posts: 8,194

PostPosted: Thu 12 Jun, 2008 7:42 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

The problem is that sometimes one imagines a way of doing things that on " paper " ( Imagination ) seems like it will be easier to do or won't take as much work but may end up being more difficult and, worse: Not giving as good a result as the " normal " way of doing it.

A Pommel with a hole halfway through or of too small diameter shouldn't be hard for a "machinist " to drill through or enlarge the hole. If the resulting pommel is to be peened instead of screwed in place the size of the hole can be bigger and some sort of rectangular shoulder machined in so that the pommel won't rotate if of the wheel kind.

A lot depends on what you already have as a sword, the size of tang, length of round screw thread already there ( assuming that it is a threaded than end ): Adapting what you have to different system of securing the pommel and grip should be done with what needs to be done as simply as possible.

Again, tools you have access too, skill in using those tools, machinist who can do the work for you, their skill level and how well you can communicate clearly what you want.

All, very vague here, but I'm thinking in general principles about how to logically analyse what needs to be done and what is the best way to do it.

You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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