Info Favorites Register Log in
myArmoury.com Discussion Forums

Forum index Memberlist Usergroups Spotlight Topics Search
Forum Index > Off-topic Talk > warhammer... DIY Reply to topic
This is a standard topic  
Author Message
R.A. Feuillerat





Joined: 22 Feb 2008

Posts: 4

PostPosted: Fri 29 Feb, 2008 8:56 pm    Post subject: warhammer... DIY         Reply with quote

Hello,

First post, so I hope I'm in the correct place for this question...

I would like to get a hammer similar to the Lutel 17016, I can't afford Lutel's at $500+ USD... Blush

I figured I could make it my self, It doesn't have to be historically accurate to the last rivet but I would like a "battle ready" hammer and not something to hang on the wall.

Has anyone made or have advice on making warhammers?

Am I in the wrong area and need to go to the manufacturers area? Worried Eek!

Thanks.

Robert
View user's profile Send private message
Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team


myArmoury Team

Location: Cincinnati, OH
Joined: 18 Aug 2003
Likes: 21 pages
Reading list: 231 books

Spotlight topics: 15
Posts: 9,135

PostPosted: Fri 29 Feb, 2008 9:21 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Robert,
Welcome to myArmoury.com. Happy The correct place to ask for advice on constructing your own weapon is probably the Off-Topic Talk forum, where I've moved this.

The Makers and Manufacturers Talk forum is a place for professionals in the industry to advertise their wares and make announcements.

Happy

ChadA

http://chadarnow.com/
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
R.A. Feuillerat





Joined: 22 Feb 2008

Posts: 4

PostPosted: Fri 29 Feb, 2008 9:28 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Chad Arnow wrote:
Robert,
Welcome to myArmoury.com. Happy The correct place to ask for advice on constructing your own weapon is probably the Off-Topic Talk forum, where I've moved this.

The Makers and Manufacturers Talk forum is a place for professionals in the industry to advertise their wares and make announcements.




Cool, thanks. Sorry...


Robert
View user's profile Send private message
Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team


myArmoury Team

Location: Cincinnati, OH
Joined: 18 Aug 2003
Likes: 21 pages
Reading list: 231 books

Spotlight topics: 15
Posts: 9,135

PostPosted: Fri 29 Feb, 2008 9:37 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

R.A. Feuillerat wrote:

Cool, thanks. Sorry...


Robert


Not a problem. Happy Happy hunting!

Happy

ChadA

http://chadarnow.com/
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Christopher Finneman




Location: Sartell Minnesota
Joined: 20 Mar 2006

Posts: 159

PostPosted: Fri 29 Feb, 2008 9:47 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hello there

Im not sure what it looks like on lutel cause my computer wont load the page.
But Ive had luck forging a railroad spike to a war hammer but tends to be a lil soft but still efficiant. Also another project Ive been working on it I bought a roofing hammer ( I beieve thats what they are called) and ground down the back to a nice 4 sided spike. Still in the works but its coming out nice. Also did a lil grinding on the hammer head .
Anyways thats my two cents

Christopher

Proudly it stands until the worlds end. The victorious banner of love.
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
R.A. Feuillerat





Joined: 22 Feb 2008

Posts: 4

PostPosted: Fri 29 Feb, 2008 10:14 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Christopher Finneman wrote:
Hello there

Im not sure what it looks like on lutel cause my computer wont load the page.
But Ive had luck forging a railroad spike to a war hammer but tends to be a lil soft but still efficiant. Also another project Ive been working on it I bought a roofing hammer ( I beieve thats what they are called) and ground down the back to a nice 4 sided spike. Still in the works but its coming out nice. Also did a lil grinding on the hammer head .
Anyways thats my two cents

Christopher


Roofing hammer is a good idea... for a smaller hammer.

I only barely passed metal shop in high school, does the grinding affect the temper of the head?

The Lutel 17016 is a reproduction of a 14th century French 2-handed war hammer, 43" long and weighing in at 7# with a top and back spike. Good for knocking tin cans off of ponies Big Grin

You can see a pic of it in the Comparion section on the main page.

Thanks for the ideas about the roofing hammer.

Later.

Robert
View user's profile Send private message
Allan Senefelder
Industry Professional



Location: Upstate NY
Joined: 18 Oct 2003

Posts: 1,563

PostPosted: Fri 29 Feb, 2008 11:00 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Rock/masonary hammers, they can be forged and annealed, file decently in an annealed state, have enough material to draw out a spike and extend or reshape the head a bit and will retemper with a simple quench in water ( most rock/masonary hammers are W type water hardening steels from my expirience).
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Christopher Finneman




Location: Sartell Minnesota
Joined: 20 Mar 2006

Posts: 159

PostPosted: Sat 01 Mar, 2008 11:21 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Im not sure if they will be affected or not. I just picked up a few of these hamers to modifiy to my liking. I'll clue you in to what I find out/ The design is there for a warhammer just need to get the basics down and Ill clue you all in.
Proudly it stands until the worlds end. The victorious banner of love.
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
Brian Johnson




Location: Firth, Idaho
Joined: 02 Feb 2008

Posts: 9

PostPosted: Mon 03 Mar, 2008 11:56 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

As long as the head doesn't get really hot during grinding (600+ degrees farenheit) it should remain plenty hard. A good way to make sure you don't overtemper while grinding is to do it barehanded. An even better way would be to forge the rough shape, grind, and then heat treat to your desired hardness. As Mr. Senefelder said, hammers are typically made of simple steels like W-series or 10xx series. These steels are pretty easy to heat treat. If you don't have a forge, you could probably make due with an acetylene torch. I wouldn't recommend using a torch to heat treat a blade, but a hammer has enough mass that you should be able adequately control the temperature. If you intend to forge the head, only strike the steel when it is in the bright red to orange range (1500-1800 degrees). When the steel cools to a dull red, it must be re-heated to resume forging. After you are done forging, heat the steel to cherry red (1450 to 1500ish) and cool as slowly as possible. Immediately placing it in a container full of vermiculite or even wood ash and leaving until cool will anneal the steel enough to make it relatively easy to grind. After you are done grinding, heat the head back to cherry red. As soon as the steel reaches the appropriate temperature, quench in oil or water. After the quench, the steel will need to be tempered immediately. W-series and 10xx series steels get extremely hard and require a relatively high temper for use as a hammer. You could either put it in your oven on the highest bake setting for an hour, or you could temper with the torch. Depending on the alloy, the highest setting on the oven may not be hot enough for an adequate hammer type temper. If you decide to temper with the torch, you will need to remove the oxidation left on the surface of the steel from the quench so that you can monitor the temperature by observing the color change on the surface of the steel. Begin heating the head with a small flame. Keep the flame moving so as to keep the heat even. The steel will progressively change color from yellow to brown to magenta to dark blue. Stop when you get the whole head to oxidize to a magenta or blue color. If the surface turns very light blue or gray, you have gotten to hot. It may take you a few tries to get the whole process right.

Also....forging and hardening are best done in a dark room. Excess lighting will make it extremely hard to accurately judge temperature

Unfortunately, those who continue to live by the sword will inevitably get shot by those who dont.
View user's profile Send private message


Display posts from previous:   
Forum Index > Off-topic Talk > warhammer... DIY
Page 1 of 1 Reply to topic
All times are GMT - 8 Hours

View previous topic :: View next topic
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum






All contents © Copyright 2003-2018 myArmoury.com — All rights reserved
Discussion forums powered by phpBB © The phpBB Group
Switch to the Basic Low-bandwidth Version of the forum